Parts list needed and a question

[Klayfish]

So, based on my previous thread, I've decided to turn most of my time and $$$ to my orange Spider, which is the one I hope to actually put back on the road soon. So I need help on getting started.

The front of the engine is already taken apart. Gives me great access to all the belts, pulleys, etc... Here's a picture of it.

http://s1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa4 ... 020286.jpg

So while the engine is apart like this, can you give me a checklist of parts that I should replace? I've already got a new v belt and timing belt. What gaskets and seals should I change? What else? Water pump? Don't want to waste money and buy things I don't need, but I want to do it right while the engine is apart. Since it hasn't run in at least 5 or 6 years, I can't see what seals are weeping/leaking. I want to order my parts this week and get started (suggestions on where to get all the parts would be great too).

Here's my question. The timing belt is already off and the crank pulley is still on. How do I get the nut off properly, without spinning the motor? I've ready about putting the car in gear. The clutch cable is also disconnected. Thanks for any help, you guys are great!! Sorry if the questions are dumb, but hey, what can I say, I'm new at this.

[narfire]

The car looks just great. Love the idea of a 3 fiat garage I notice the engine area is fairly clean. The mounts dont have oil and grime on them,same with the front crank seal area. Did you wash the engine yet? Perhaps tidy up the sides of the engine bay while you have room...gunk and some water. The inside of the car ... well the engine bay looks great. New spark plugs and belt are a must as a new oil filter. Drain the old fluids out and replace, fuel ect and check the fuel from the tank, if it is rusty then you'll have to pull the tank..disconect hoses and 3or4 13mm bolts in the trunk, and get the tank cleaned and perhaps have the inside coated (can be done at home) blow out the fuel lines. Have you put a wee bit of atf fluid in each cylinder yet if the engine does not rotate. Does the water pump turn freely or any up and down motion felt when you wiggle the pump pully around, if so I'd might think about swapping that as it might start to leak soon after you think you are off to the races. If it feels solid,leave it alone for now,not really a difficult thing to swap anyway. I believe you should be able to swap the timing belt without taking the crank wheel off. BIG thing to remember have all the timing marks in just the right place as the auxillary wheel when putting the belt on. Hows the distributor? points need replacing? Now when you have the fuel sorted with a good carb, the plugs and good spark to the plugs sorted, belt in place with the marks just right and I tust the engine has compression. give it a crank. Read the manuals you have.. put them in the reading room, most men do their reading there in the am anyway.
Oh yea,put a installation fluid chilling machine behind the car in the garage
Chris

[redcars]

To keep the motor from turning put a chain wrench on the crank pulley.

[azruss]

First thing i noticed was all the oily dirt around the dizzy and down to the pan. this is caused by a leak that can come from 3 possible places. cam cover, dizzy, cam tower. this is a normal leak spot. you may want to buy new cam cover gaskets and a new dizzy gasket (between dizzy and head). wouldnt worry about the cam tower gasket as it looks like the leak is above that. may want to just bite the bullet and get a water pump and thermostadt, those are 2 items that dont "sit" well. I see the carbs are off the car so you will need intake manifold gasket. Look to see if the heater lead pipe is still connected to the water pump (it goes from the waterpump to the back of the motor under the exhaust manifold. If you are going to replace the waterpump, get that gasket as well. It may come with waterpump. There are good and bad water pumps, so need to do some research there. Dont need to pull the crankshaft nut unless you are planning on replacing the front seal.

[Klayfish]

Thanks for the suggestions.

Yeah, the interior is a bit intimidating, especially for someone who's never fixed cars before. But one step at a time. I figure by time I get everything else done and am ready to tackle the interior, it'll seem like cake.

I didn't clean up the car at all since I got it. The photos are exactly as it was. Though it doesn't necessarily prove anything, the PO own his own auto restoration shop. He specialized in old British cars, but had a personal liking for Fiats. Somewhere down the PO line, someone took it to Ziebart Tidy Car (remember them?) and must have bought their full rustproofing package. There is still a lot the stuff all over the underside of the car, and some in the engine bay too.

I checked the water pump. It seems to spin nice and free. There is no play at all when I try to move it. There's only one hose coming off the water pump. It looks fairly large, but it's cut off about 2" from the end of the pump, so it doesn't go anywhere.

I put some ATF down the cylinders. Interestingly enough, just like the other Spider I have, 3 of the plugs looked good, but the one in cylinder 2 seemed like it was running rich.

I just can't decide if I should change the front seals while I the engine is apart like this. Wouldn't they be dried out from sitting for as long as these have? Believe me, any money I don't need to spend is great, but I want to do this right. Haven't pulled the dizzy apart yet, but I will.

And for the installation fluid...the Craigslist search is on for a suitable container for same...

So would you replace seals, etc..as a precaution if you were in my spot?