Cross threaded spark plug?

[ga.spyder]

I am a little pissed.I went to change the plugs on my Spider and found the easiest one to change(front) crossed!! I was having some isssues last year with the car,ended up being AFM,and a shop did the plugs.Now,I go to take it out and it has a lot of resistance.Feels like its getting tighter instead of looser.I went ahead and tightened it back down,and changed the other 3.I have a big event this weekend and am not going to mess with it.Question....what do I do? The plugs I removed looked like brand new,so I am sure the older #1 it will last thru the season.Any suggestions??

[majicwrench]

It may or may not be crossthreaded, lot of issues can make em bind. Run engine till warm, not hot. Turn plug out as far as it will go without force, then fill around plug with penetrating oil. Now work plug in and out gently. Let it sit a while, try again. Force is the wrong thing here, but you do want to gradually work it out. YOu will hopefully find that it does indeed gradually work out.

[boogiedude]

If it is indeed cross threaded, I'm not sure but you may be able to retap it. If not, you may need to pull the head and tale it to a machinist to repair. Probably cost about $50 if you're lucky. My engine builder just for this repair while my engine is being built.

[ga.spyder]

Thanks for the tip on getting it out,I will try that this morning.As soon as I felt it bind ,I stopped and tightened it back down.I did nt want to break it.The plugs I took out only have 1000 or less miles on them,so it will be ok for this driving season ,if I cant ease it out.
I really hope I dont have to remove the head.I was sent a link to a thread chasing and insert kit,but of course I gotta' get that plug out first!!! Thanks again

[124ADDHE]

Sounds more likely that the plug threads have carboned up, if it was cross-threaded, it would not be progressively harder to remove, the hard work of cross-threading would have been accomplished on the install. This happened on my jaguar, there are 4 plugs on the V-12 that are so hard to get at that there is a special tool for their removal and due to the difficulty, this dealr-maintained car had never had these 4 plugs pulled, they would not come out more than 2 turns without force and due to the heads being aluminum, i did not want to "work"them out and fuckup the strength of my threads, so this is what I did:

Heat up engine, take off air cleaner, spray lots of water in mist form into the intake while running, while keeping throttle open with free hand, let engine cool, then easily remove the steam-cleaned plugs; worked fine.

Just a suggestion as cross-threading on removal does not sound possible.

[majicwrench]

124ADDHE,
I remember working at a jag dealer back in the 70's, what a hoot.

ga.spider, even if thread do, or are, buggered up, is easy and quick to install a insert to repair threads with head on, esp #1 hole. So no worries.
Keith

[ga.spyder]

Keith,if you are at FFO or any other event I attend..I owe you a beer(s).I followed your method to the letter,as soon as the plug felt like it was binding I would tighten a little and ease pressure back on.That,and PB Blaster got it right out.I looked over the threads,and they looked fine.I went ahead and installed the new plug with no problem.I think it could have been carboned as 124addhe suggested.Thanks again guys.She is running sweet and ready for Road Atlanta this weekend!

[mdrburchette]

Good Gawd, I hope you put anti-seize on the threads this time! If I haven't taught you anything else, I hope you learned that.

[ga.spyder]

I always put anti-seize on the threads.However,the last time the plugs were changed it was done at Gary's shop.That was when I was having the problems that ended up being the AFM.They ,obviously didnt use anti-seize