Overcharge and no start issue

[gwb]

I just did a 300 round trip in the '75 spider the other day. Ran great, except when he tried to start it to go home. We realized the battery was totally cooked, bulging at the sides, leaking water out the top. We exchanged it and got a new one and tried to start it, but the starter solenoid just clicked and did not spin. We ended up jumping the car off in second gear and drove her home with the lights on with no problems. When we arrived, the battery was too hot to touch, so we removed it.

Any ideas on where we should start? We've driven her before on 100 mile trips with no problems. I am going to check my volts at the starter first and go from there.

[124JOE]

you have a bad starter

[majicwrench]

You need to test some things. And FYI, I never mess with a hot battery, or one that is gassing. Let it cool down, get a fan on it, that gas explodes.
Check charging voltage at battery. SHould be 14 to 15 volts engine running, rev it a bit, should stay under 15v.. Turn light and fan on, rev engine a little, should stay above 13.5 volts.

Terminals clean?? If top of old battery wet , likely terminals disgusting. Need nice shiny lead to make good contact.
In the very initial No Start, what did it do?? Did it just "click" with the old starter too??
Keith

[azruss]

dont know if your year as the external voltage regulator (big box on the DS inner fender). they have points in the box. if one set is welded together, then such overcharging can result.

[gwb]

I'm using a brand new battery, I returned the fried one. I'm getting about 13v at battery terminals and the same at the starter. All it does is click. I am thinking it starter is bad

[gwb]

dont know if your year as the external voltage regulator (big box on the DS inner fender). they have points in the box. if one set is welded together, then such overcharging can result.

I do have a black box regulator on my ds fender and I intend on replacing it with a NOS one I have. Thanks for the tip!

[majicwrench]

Again, with the original battery, the original no start, did it just click?? If so, you probably have a bad starter, or bad terminals/connection.

Should get better than 13 v at battery with engine reved up.
Keith

[gwb]

Again, with the original battery, the original no start, did it just click?? If so, you probably have a bad starter, or bad terminals/connection.

Should get better than 13 v at battery with engine reved up.
Keith

I don't remember with the original battery. I don't remember hearing it click, but I could be wrong. I know I should be getting better than 13v, but I can't start the engine

[majicwrench]

Me bad, of course you can't start it!

[gwb]

Thanks for the help everyone. I still have a few more questions...

Could a bad/faulty voltage regulator be responsible for a burned out starter? Furthermore, my dash gauge lights did not work on the drive home, so could the electrical problems affected those as well?

[azruss]

the battery got cooked because the alternator was pouring unfettered juice into the battery. It is possible it fried the starter, but not likely. the starter only sees battery voltage when the key is in the start position. it is possible (not likely) that the starter solenoid jammed and kept power to the starter without activating the bendix drive. You would have heard it humming away. It is more likely the solenoid or the key got fried. starters are easy to bench test. take a battery and jumper cables. clamp + side to the top lug on the solenoid. - side to the bolt flange. take a small insulated wire and clamp to the + side. take the other end and touch it to the contact blade on the side of the solenoid. if all is well, the starter will jump off the table when you do this. good idea to do this on the ground and put your foot on the starter to hold it down.
Also if you welded the points in the voltage regulator it may be locked on the alternator and not allowing the battery to activate the system. take the cover off the voltage regulator and look for the 2 sets of points. if one set is welded together, separate them and give them a little sand. see if that gets you back in action.

[gwb]

Thanks for the info. I tried using a spare (I believe it's used) v. regulator to no avail. However, the fasten seatbelt light work now The points on the old one do not look welded together.

Would the solenoid been affected by a malfunctioning voltage regulator?

[124JOE]

ok so get ready for the ultimate show
first drain the rad ,remove fan,pull off alt,pull off fuel pump,ok so now you have room to remove the starter.
and if you feel like doing the brakes remove the master cylider to.


hope this helps.joe

[gwb]

ok so get ready for the ultimate show
first drain the rad ,remove fan,pull off alt,pull off fuel pump,ok so now you have room to remove the starter.
and if you feel like doing the brakes remove the master cylider to.


hope this helps.joe

[124JOE]

sorry