No fuel to the injector rail
No fuel to the injector rail
Ok, so I just got my first spider home. Still on the trailer. Changed the oil. Had to grind down a half inch hex wrench for that. But my issue is when I spray starting fluid into the manifold and put the intake breather back on securely, and crank her she fires for a second. The fuel pump doesn't run fuel to the fuel rail. The pump doesn't turn on when the key is on. I checked the relay and it has power. There is no power to the pump I also pulled the inline pump and it does not work alone when hooked directly to the battery. Oh, and yes I checked the fuse on the Brown wire from the key to the relay. Also checked the afm for movement. What the f am I missing?
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
the afm flap has to open in order for the pump to get power. The pump ground is at the left taillight
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- Patron 2024
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- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Wallingford,CT
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
The white/black wire at the pump is ground, the green/black wire is the power wire. As Mark mentioned both must be present with the pump connected for the pump to run.
With the key on when you move the air flow flap you should hear the dual relay click. It is common for previous owners to mess with this circuit and try and by pass the relay.
Your post states you pulled the pump and connected it directly to the battery and it did not run. If that is the case the pump is bad and needs to be replaced. Fuel pump failures are common in cars that have been sitting for a long time. There is no filter between the tank and the pump so sediment in the tank can jam the pump. Also water can collect in the pump, because it is the lowest point in the fuel system, causing corrosion.
With the key on when you move the air flow flap you should hear the dual relay click. It is common for previous owners to mess with this circuit and try and by pass the relay.
Your post states you pulled the pump and connected it directly to the battery and it did not run. If that is the case the pump is bad and needs to be replaced. Fuel pump failures are common in cars that have been sitting for a long time. There is no filter between the tank and the pump so sediment in the tank can jam the pump. Also water can collect in the pump, because it is the lowest point in the fuel system, causing corrosion.
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
Thanks guys for the info. I got a pump on its way to me. The pump is not near the tank. It's on the belly mounted to the frame. So where else could it be grounded to? It looks like the wires run into the car via the left rear floor pan wall. From there where to?
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- Patron 2024
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Wallingford,CT
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
As Mark stated the factory ground point for the fuel pump is at the driver side tail light assembly. You need to peal back the trunk carpet to see it. Usually the tail light and fuel pump are grounded unde the same tail light mounting stud.
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
That is a really dumb place to put a gnd for something so critical. I think I will rewire the whole car. At least I will know what's what. A little about me... Aircraft mechanic since 1980. Son of a machinist of 40 years. But new to Fiat spider fi systems. Learning quickly. Any help is always accepted. Thanks guys.
- bradartigue
- Posts: 2183
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 2:35 pm
- Your car is a: 1970 Sport Spider
- Location: Atlanta, GA
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
eman2112 wrote:That is a really dumb place to put a gnd for something so critical. I think I will rewire the whole car. At least I will know what's what. A little about me... Aircraft mechanic since 1980. Son of a machinist of 40 years. But new to Fiat spider fi systems. Learning quickly. Any help is always accepted. Thanks guys.
Here's some help: if you want to ever drive the thing, don't "rewire the whole car." It will never, ever, see the road again. Many have tried, all have failed.
There is no reason to rewire the entire car anyway. Most FIAT electrical problems are due to corrosion in the grounding points, and if you clean them up and dress them properly you won't have issues. If you bypass them, mix aluminum and copper wiring, solder stuff together, and other "mods" you'll have all sorts of issues. Modded cars end up in junkyards.
FIAT electrical engineering is actually pretty damned solid...however, the materials used and the actual body of the car are not so hot. You aren't going to be able to change the biggest problem, the crappy metal they used in the body.
1970 124 Spider
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
http://www.artigue.com/fiat
- azruss
- Posts: 3659
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
- Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
Brad is right. no need to reinvent the wheel here. I just grounded my fuel pump by making a short lead and ground it to the chassis using one of the bracket mounting studs.
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
I agree with you Brad. I will only rewire key components cleaning the grounds. I definitely plan to rework the light and signals though. The po has done some strange stuff to the electrics. The fan is wired to the key bypassing the temp switch. Any suggestions on cleaning and sealing the fuel tank?
- azruss
- Posts: 3659
- Joined: Sun May 30, 2010 12:24 pm
- Your car is a: 80 Fiat 2000 FI
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
I took my gas tank to a radiator shop. I think it cost me around $90 to have it clean dipped, sealed and painted.
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
I called around today. Everyone I called quoted $150.00 to clean and seal the tank. OUCH! Do I get dinner and a movie with that? The radiator was only $79.00. HUH...
I ordered a complete gasket kit for everything on the engine for $39.00. I might as well have all the engine gaskets at hand. I figure that I should change the timing, alternator an a/c compressor belt before I try and fire her up for the first time as well. Got new plugs and radiator hoses as well. The springs inside of them must be rusted too. Better change all of them to keep rust pieces out the water pump, heads and block. Am I being to anal or what?
Can anyone tell how many bolts and where to take off the timing belt cover?
I ordered a complete gasket kit for everything on the engine for $39.00. I might as well have all the engine gaskets at hand. I figure that I should change the timing, alternator an a/c compressor belt before I try and fire her up for the first time as well. Got new plugs and radiator hoses as well. The springs inside of them must be rusted too. Better change all of them to keep rust pieces out the water pump, heads and block. Am I being to anal or what?
Can anyone tell how many bolts and where to take off the timing belt cover?
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- Patron 2024
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Wallingford,CT
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
I think you need to purchase at least one shop manual. There are 3 or 4 different publishers of Fiat manuals that you would find helpful
Most of the Fiat vendors that support FLU would carry them. I have a few different ones and they have slightly different info so together they make a wealth of info.
Most of the Fiat vendors that support FLU would carry them. I have a few different ones and they have slightly different info so together they make a wealth of info.
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
You lucky people! I can't find any old-style radiator shops around here. You know, the kind that will flush, pressure test, repair radiators (much less gas tanks). Everyone just wants to sell a new plastic radiator and charge you out the wazzoo to put it in. Ridiculous!!azruss wrote:I took my gas tank to a radiator shop. I think it cost me around $90 to have it clean dipped, sealed and painted.
Re: No fuel to the injector rail
AGREED! I make sure I have at least one copy of each one made. I read all four before starting something. Between the four of them I can usually get enough pictures and hints to get the job done. None of them has all the answers. When that fails, I can be found here on the forum, posting my problems with pics and awaiting good info.spider2081 wrote:I think you need to purchase at least one shop manual. There are 3 or 4 different publishers of Fiat manuals that you would find helpful
Most of the Fiat vendors that support FLU would carry them. I have a few different ones and they have slightly different info so together they make a wealth of info.