starting problems

Gotta love that wiring . . .
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

it goes up to about 12.5v or 12v and stays in that range.
So Cal Mark

Re: starting problems

Post by So Cal Mark »

when the points close, the voltage should be 0 at the - terminal. If the points don't ground the current you will not have spark
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

how do i know if they are grounded? and where would the ground be if not on the distributer
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

the points are clean and all together with the right gaps the new rotor (with clean contacts) i have seems to be short but the old one dosent work either dont know much about the points just what ive read in the haynes book but that isnt very descriptive.
So Cal Mark

Re: starting problems

Post by So Cal Mark »

when the points close, that sends the current to ground, and causes the current in the coil to jump to the secondary winding, causing a spark. If the points are burned or have oil on them, you may not get a ground, and no spark. When the points are closed you should have no voltage at the - terminal. With the key on, and the points open, use a screwdriver to bridge the points. Have the coil wire close to ground and a spark should jump
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

thanks for the help i'll try that today
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

the test worked it caused a spark when i completed the circut but i think the gaps are wrong when i tested it i couldent see a visible gap but it didnt cause a spark unless i pu a screw driver on the two edges does that mean the whole unit is improperly installed i didnt do it but the previous might have when he had the engin apart.
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

and there is still no fuel to the carb does it have a ground. It makes pretty loud noises when the lights are on, does it need rubber mounts because i dont have any but i just used some normal bolts.
So Cal Mark

Re: starting problems

Post by So Cal Mark »

to adjust the points, you have to turn the engine until one of the cams on the dist shaft is on the rubbing block of the points. Then the gap should be about .016 or the thickness of a matchbook cover.
As for your other question, are you saying the fuel pump makes noise?
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

i tested the spark as soon as i had some help with the car and as usual mark was right all i had to do was clean the points with some carb cleaner on a clean piece of cloth and it worked but the fuel pump still isnt working could it be dried out its been sitting dry for quite a while maybe five or six years and the noise comming off it is really loud and stays on when i turn the key halfway shouldent it turn on then stop and then start back up when the engin is being turned over. I disconnected it right away because it sounded so awful. Thanks for the help with the points and coil mark saved me alot of money and time. :D
So Cal Mark

Re: starting problems

Post by So Cal Mark »

the carbed engine electric pumps will run all of the time when the key is on. Only the FI pumps shut off if the engine isn't running. Electric pumps are noisy when they are dry. It may have a leak on the suction side so that it's drawing air and not fuel, or the sock on the pickup in the tank may be varnished up. If the car has been sitting 5 or 6 years, I'd remove the fuel tank sending unit and inspect the sock on the end. If it still has the fabric type hoses from the tank to the pump, I'd replace them; they can seep right through the covering
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

no its got a new sender, new hoses, and the tank has been coated. should i try and prime the pump i could use a manual suction brake bleeder to suck the gas into the lines. should the pump ground through it self to the frame or is there a ground wire somewhere the diagram shows there is a ground but does not say what color it is or if even a wire.
So Cal Mark

Re: starting problems

Post by So Cal Mark »

if the pump has two wires, one has to be grounded. If it only has one wire, then it grounds thru the body of the pump. If it's making noise it must be grounded. Is the pump mounted lower than the tank? If you have an air compressor, you can pressurize the tank to push fuel to the pump. Just use a nozzle with a rag around it at the fuel filler. It doesn't take much pressure.
Is the pump mounted in the rear of the car?
calebw

Re: starting problems

Post by calebw »

the pump has one wire and its located in the trunk underneath the + side of the battery
So Cal Mark

Re: starting problems

Post by So Cal Mark »

it could be an original pump, and it very well could not be creating any suction
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