Starter Motor

[blurple124]

Okay, I've seen many posts here about starter issues, but they all kind of seem to be different.

In my case, I turn the key and I hear nothing except the fuel pump switching on. Nothing happens under the hood. We figured that the motor was just shot and needed to be rebuilt or replaced, but is it possible that there is a wiring issue?

Any advice on where to start looking?

[rlux4]

You need to check if the power is getting from your ignition switch to the starter. Easiest starting point is the ignition wire out the back of the switch, if power is leaving the switch, then put your VOM on the red wire (I'm assuming it's red on your car) at the starter. Here's the wiring diaagram for your car if you don't have a good, readable set:
http://www.artigue.com/fiatcontent/wiri ... g_1978.pdf
Brad Artigue has made these available and they can be blown up to any size you want with out loosing clarity.
Ron

[rlux4]

Oops. Wrong thread.

[markpink]

I have had this happen several times before.

3 of 4 times, it was a issue with the ignition switch. The fourth was the starter. Check to see if the voltage is getting to the starter before you think of replacing the starter. It is a horrible job replacing the starter on a Fiat spider.

Mark

[azruss]

you have a small wire that is connected to a spade connector on the starter solenoid. it is the only wire to the solenoid that is not connected to the two big lugs. the key puts 12v to that wire to activate the starter. its easier to check the key end of that wire. If the key shows 12v in the start position, then check the starter end of the wire. also, a good test is to make a jumper wire and hook it to the spade connector on the starter solenoid. turn on the key and touch your jumper wire to any 12v source. make sure you are out of gear so you dont run over your foot.

[blurple124]

Okay, after some research I have heard that a single brown wire is split (at some point) into two wires: one going to the starter and the headlights (thank's FIAT). But, if this is true (which I haven't yet looked at the wiring diagrams to confirm, but I trust the forum) then the fact that my headlights are working tells me that the problem is after that brown wire.
This requires digging into the starter motor to figure out if that is the case, which leads me to my next question:

What has been the preferred method for accessing the starter motor? Is there a special technique? Any advice?

[124JOE]

starter replacement
unhook batt
drain rad
remove rad
remove alt
remove fuel pump if equipt
unbolt sarter wires then starter
pull out the hloe youve made


i would double check the main ground first
then test the noid for volts
then give volts to the starter
this will tell you witch is bad
batt should test above 12.40v
mines at 12.67v

[lanciahf]

Ditto what Mark said.

Before you take out that starter. Jump it with 12 volts to see if it engages. Apply 12 volts to the small red wire going to the starter. If the starter spins then the starter is fine. Make sure the car is in neutral before you test it.

Okay, after some research I have heard that a single brown wire is split (at some point) into two wires: one going to the starter and the headlights (thank's FIAT). But, if this is true (which I haven't yet looked at the wiring diagrams to confirm, but I trust the forum) then the fact that my headlights are working tells me that the problem is after that brown wire.
This requires digging into the starter motor to figure out if that is the case, which leads me to my next question:

What has been the preferred method for accessing the starter motor? Is there a special technique? Any advice?

[blurple124]

Well I tackled the starter motor today.
With two u-joints and extensions, it was actually really easy to undo the three bolts, that only took about 20 minutes.
Trying to get the darned thing out of there took up the next 4 hours! I tried getting it out the bottom, but it wouldn't fit around the steering linkage, so I ended up draining the coolant and removing the intake.

Does anyone have a better method for removing the starter once it has been unbolted?

[So Cal Mark]

I drop them out the bottom. You may have to undo the center link, but I've found turning the wheels to one side allows room for the starter to come out

[nelsonj]

I have my head off (due to a slipped t-belt and valve damage). My starter was working, but I frequently would get a "click, buzzz" when I turned my ignition. I would simply return the key and it typically would crank over the next try. Anyway, rather than wait for it to fail, and after seeing how difficult it can be to get the starter out, I decided to remove my starter while I had "easy" access.

I started with what people say is the hardest bolt - it was not bad from this angle, I could get a wrench on it...



Not much room to turn, so a lot of very small movement, reposition the wrench, and repeat.

Then I went on to the bolt on the bottom. This was actually the hardest for me. I didn't jack up the car, I just turned the steering wheel, slid under, and used the following extension/u-joint setup to reach and undo the bottom bolt.



For the last and easiest bolt, I was able to get a small ratchet on and the bolt came off pretty easily.



I disconnected the wiring, and it was time to pull the beast out. I thought it would be a straight lift, but to my surprise, I really had to work it and turn it and angle it in order to get it out - even with the head off!! For a moment I thought I was going to have to remove the fuel pump, but I just kept trying different angles and finally it came out.



Here is the starter so you can see where the three bolts are.



All told, it took about 40 mins to get out - not bad for my first try. I reckon few people have done it this quickly on their first try from what I have read. The time was largely do to the the slow process of turning the bolts and rigging up my extension u-joint more than anything else.

I can't believe how big and heavy this thing is. I bet there are Mac trucks with smaller starters! The starter on my Honda, including the selinoid is only about the size of the selinoid on this thing. Shesh.

In sum, if you have your head off, taking the starter out is pretty straight forward. I even did it without jacking up the car- certainly nothing like all the horror stories posted under other methods. Due to the tight space in getting it out even with the head off, frankly (even though I know people do it) I can't see how people are able to do this without taking at least the intake off.

[NimrodJess]

Ugh. I get to do this this weekend. We tested the electricals in our beast and everything checked out fine... except the starter. Ignition switch is fine, solenoid was sending power, starter didn't want it.

Thanks for the pointers!

[blurple124]

In hindsight, I think the reason I wasn't able to drop mine out the bottom is because I didn't leave the wheels free to move and open up the steering linkage enough to drop the starter out. If you haven't already done it, you may want to make sure you've done this. Should save some time.

[fiat218]

starter replacement
unhook batt
drain rad
remove rad
remove alt
remove fuel pump if equipt
unbolt sarter wires then starter
pull out the hloe youve made


i would double check the main ground first
then test the noid for volts
then give volts to the starter
this will tell you witch is bad
batt should test above 12.40v
mines at 12.67v

I know this is a old post. But I have never heard of such thing as removing the radiator and alt to get the starter out
Geesh,lot of work. Mine came up thru the top .lots of room

[sehovarter]

All - thanks for the notes in this post - my starter needs to be moved so I can remove my leaking steering box - was looking for where the 3 bolts were located from underneath - but with this post I now know where to look - guess I will be giving it a shot after church this am! Love this forum!!