New Spider owner in Lubbock, Tx

[valkyrcustoms]

Hello and good evening to all. My name is Rudy and I am now the proud new owner of a 1975 Fiat 124 Spider. I purchased it over the weekend in Fort Worth, TX and towed it (on a flat bed) to my home in Lubbock. I got it for $800 and its got a few issues that need to be addressed but i believe that with every ones help here, I should be able to get everything taken care of. I got it in a non-running condition but did hear the motor turn over. Just tonight i was able to start her up with a new battery and pouring a bit of fuel down the carb. She has sat for 3 years so i know i've got to freshen her up before putting her on the road. Any suggestions on what i should do, replace, refurbish first before running her. I need to clean out the fuel tank as it sat with fuel in it for those three years and i need to find a wiring diagram since some wires under the dash are cut or rigged, etc... Any help finding one would be greatly appreciated.

I'm no stranger to getting my hands dirty in the garage. While I am a graduate student in a professional financial field, I am also a vintage motorcycle mechanic and own a shop that i operate by myself. I am pretty competent with tools and my hands, I just need some direction sometimes. Likewise if anyone here ever has any issues with a vintage motorcycle, let me know and I'll do my best to help out.

-Rudy O.

[RRoller123]

Welcome aboard! You will find plenty of knowledgeable and friendly people here.

Here is a thread on how to post pictures directly to the forum:

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21014

And here is a great picture-posting thread edited by SLOSpider:

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 12&t=23084


Pete

[TX82FIAT]

Welcome, you are on the money with the fuel system starting with the fuel tank. These cars can overheat in a hurry if the cooling system is not properly maintained creating many other issues. Flushing the entire system is a good idea checking for leaks/blockages. The timing belt will need to be changed so you might as well change the water pump while in there. The brake system is the other area i'd make sure is flushed and free of any leaks. Once fuel, cooling and braking are in place then you can move on to all the basics tuning the car up. How many miles does the car have on it?

[Exit98]

Get it running first, then worry about the electrics.

Lots of wiring on 74-79's were for long abandoned smog stuff and seatbelt buzzers and so forth so cut wires aren't necessarily bad.

Make sure the stuff you need is working, lights, blinkers, ect. , don't worry the other stuff.

[valkyrcustoms]

Thanks TX and Exit. I'll make sure to clean out the cooling system after cleaning the fuel system. I know I should change the timing belt since I don't know when it was done last and I'll take your advice about changing the water pump while I'm at it. but should i look at changing the head gasket while i'm there too? My roommate suggested it since that is what he's done on some of his twin cam cars (no experience with these fiats though). Just wondered if i should do that while i'm there.

I'd also like to remove the smog pump and equipment but I'll wait on that until I get her running well so I don't try to change too many things at once. Also I will wait on the wiring until the engine is running well, I just have quite a few switches, levers and electronics that don't seem to work. The cut wiries i've seen are right around the fuse block and i see extra fuse holders that someone added that dont connect to anything on one end so thats why i'm looking for a wiring schematic. Also I'd like to known exactly whagt each relay and component in the engine bay are for as some are disconnected.

She has got 79,285 on the clock right now and the previous owner told me that he got it from a friend who had the engine "rebuilt" some 9000 miles ago though i don't know exactly what was done to "rebuild it."

[toplessexpat]

Welcome ... and especially welcome to the center of the Fiat world that is Texas!

Ask away on any questions that you have - this really is the right place to do it.

Good luck on the (what sound like) a rolling restoration...

[vandor]

If it sat for that long don't be surprised if the brake calipers drag. It would be a good idea to take them apart and put new seals in them. The front ones are easy, the rear ones will make you invent new curse words

As others have said a new timing belt should be on top of the list, as it's an interference engine. It's best to also replace the tensioner when doing the belt. If you check the ignition timing adjust it to 10 degrees BTDC, the car will run a lot better than the stock setting of 0 degrees.

[RRoller123]

As per your question: With that few miles, retorque the head bolts and do a compression test and you should not have to replace the head gasket if the readings are ok.

[valkyrcustoms]

Thanks Topless. I've found a good bit of usefull info from just trolling around the forum before I actually got my fiat.

Vandor, I don't think the brakes are draging as I've been able to push her around as easily as anyone might be able to push a car around by themselves, lol. I'm still going to make sure that there are no leaks and flush the brake fluid out and replace it with fresh DOT (3, 4????) Any recommendations on what these old girls prefer?
Thank you for the advance on the ignition tip That should really help me out on the hills on the routes I plan to take her out on. I'm wanting to use the spider primarily as a road trip car to visit my family about 600 miles away in Edinburg, TX. I'll be having to cross the Texas hill country to get there and there are a few where i know i'll have to kick it down a gear or two.

Thanks RRoller! I'll make sure to check that out and report back on my findings as soon as its done. Does anyone know where I can get torque specs for the car or maybe a copy of a workshop manual online somewhere?

[vandor]

Either DOT 3 and 4 will work, they are the same fluid, but DOT 4 has a higher boiling point. Because of this I always get DOT 4.
When flushing the calipers be sure to push the pistons all the way in with the bleeder open, so you get rid of the old fluid in the caliper. Otherwise the new fluid will take the easiest route and go from the hose to the bleeder, and all the old fluid will stay in the caliper. Of course once it's all done and reassembled don't forget to pump the pedal so the pistons take up the slack (and you will likely have to add fluid after they have).

[toplessexpat]

If you troll around this site long enough, you'll find pictures from the Hill Country earlier this year.... 25+ Spiders (and a couple of Coupes)...