What have I done?!

[rjkoop]

If the EZ is out...before buy a new block, try to weld it in a machine shop (maybe with water in the block, to avoid torsion ?), make a new hole and a new thread and finally a resurface. After this operations you can do all the checks about surface deformation and cilynders; I think, it's always cheaper and better before go to hell and search an original block.

Got a guy in to do a thick insert.

http://www.customenginerebuilding.com/services.html

He said there was lots of 'meat' for the insert and the inside thread is still M10x1.25. He was able to use the old bolt (threaded into the 3 or 4 threads at the bottom of the hole) as a guide for the insert (to ensure it was centered). He brought his speciality tools for the insert (guide, carbide bit, tap, etc...) and it looks really good. He thinks it should be fine based on many more he has done before. He suggested using teflon sealant to ensure no water leakage around the insert. It looks really good but time will tell. Waiting on the new 10 studs/bolts (good ones for Allison Automotive) and then I'll reattach the head and see how it goes when I torque. I think it's worth a try. And didn't cost much.

I ensured everything was covered during the process and vacuumed out everything including down into the water passage areas and cylinders. I'll post pictures soon.

[Pushpull76]

AHHHHHHHH good news, happy for you!

[rjkoop]

Finally got the head back on.









I had a stud break off but had a new bolt I was able to use in it's place. Still have to understand why these studs/bolts are breaking. Even with a new stud I torqued everything up from 21 -> 41 -> 61 ft/lbs and a stud broke. Luckily studs are easy to remove compared to a broken off bolt.

For my last torque procedure (which worked) I didn't use an extension on the torque wrench because I figured keeping the 90 degree angle was tougher when the wrench was further from the head. I also ensured that I backed off a 1/4 turn before tightening to the level. That being said I hope I never have to do this again. Torquing those head bolts is very stressful.

Next up the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, coolant areas, and then timing belt (finally!). I've already replaced the front seals, water pump, etc... Goal is still to get this ready for end of September in time to go to Montebello.

[engineerted]

Richard,

Did the stud kit from Mark include a torque spec? Those bolts are a grade 8 per Marks web site thus 61ft-lbs is too much. I would expect a head bolt or stud to be 10.9 or even 12.9 in this case you got what you paided for. I for one would not buy these! Sorry Mark.

Ted

[BEEK]

METRIC 10.9 is the same as a SAE grade 8 fyi, not saying one thing or another just the fact about bolt strength, a dry installed 7/16 grade 8 bolt equivalent of a 10mm metric bolt should be able to handle 70ft lbs of torque, that is rated, the stress/ failure point should be above that. Fastenal gave the specs on the bolts and torques in case you want to reference.

[BEEK]

by the way, i am still worried about the repair on this block i would like to see pictures before you put the head gasket in place of the repaired area.

this may go 100000 miles with no problem, i just wouldnt have done it thats all.

[rjkoop]

by the way, i am still worried about the repair on this block i would like to see pictures before you put the head gasket in place of the repaired area.

this may go 100000 miles with no problem, i just wouldnt have done it thats all.

Yep. I know not the ideal situation but I thought worth a try.

I don't have any pictures after he was done unfortunately. The insert filled most of the area and then he put some metal epoxy he said he has used before for a similar issue and it worked fine in the past. I then insured the surface was clean and the repair area was below the surface of the block. I then used a Teflon based sealant (Permatex) around the insert area but not on the surface of the head, put the head gasket and head in place, used the same sealant on the studs and torqued everything down. No issues with the insert holding the torque.

Now that that's done I've put back on the camshaft covers and just torque down the exhaust manifold with a new gasket. From this point on I'm being really careful with everything. That 1st startup is gonna be nerveracking for sure.

[fiatmike124]

If you ever have to do this again I would consider mounting the cam boxes and doing the valve adjustment before you mount the head on the block. It is much easier to turn each cam as needed rather that turn the whole motor assembly over several times to set the cams for each measurement. And if you don't have a shim kit, you will likely be doing this twice. Do you need a shin tool?

[fiatmike124]

Did you ever check/adjust the valve clearances after the cam boxes went back on? Since you never mentioned it, I have a feeling you are just going with it as is.

[rjkoop]

Did you ever check/adjust the valve clearances after the cam boxes went back on? Since you never mentioned it, I have a feeling you are just going with it as is.

Mike,
I did check them before I put them on the head and everything was within spec. Should I check again once the camshaft is installed on the head and engine?

Richard

[fiatmike124]

I am not sure what you check/measured, but the valve clearances can only be checked after the cam boxes are torqued. You may get lucky and have several fall within range, but you will likely have to adjust them. Any difference in gasket thickness, or if you had a valve job, or if you didnt put the tappets (buckets) in the same locations will affect the clearance. Each bucket has a shim and it is very unlikely that they are all the same thickness. The process is described in the following link by IAP:

http://www.international-auto.com/afla- ... rances.cfm

If you still have the original pistons with the large valve reliefs, you should be able to turn the cams individually with the timing belt off without fear of valves hitting pistons. This is easier than if the belt was on. You will need a special shim tool and the correct shim sizes will depend on your measurements. I dont have the specs in front of me but there is a slight difference in the clearance range for intake and exhaust. There is also several threads on this site with more information on this topic.

[rjkoop]

I am not sure what you check/measured, but the valve clearances can only be checked after the cam boxes are torqued. You may get lucky and have several fall within range, but you will likely have to adjust them. Any difference in gasket thickness, or if you had a valve job, or if you didnt put the tappets (buckets) in the same locations will affect the clearance. Each bucket has a shim and it is very unlikely that they are all the same thickness. The process is described in the following link by IAP:

http://www.international-auto.com/afla- ... rances.cfm

If you still have the original pistons with the large valve reliefs, you should be able to turn the cams individually with the timing belt off without fear of valves hitting pistons. This is easier than if the belt was on. You will need a special shim tool and the correct shim sizes will depend on your measurements. I dont have the specs in front of me but there is a slight difference in the clearance range for intake and exhaust. There is also several threads on this site with more information on this topic.

Mike,
I'll look at that procedure. Didn't realize the camshaft cover needed to be installed to check the valve tappet clearances. I was thinking that the unit is self-contained and could be check separately. I'll recheck. And then I'll get the shim tool and shims if I need them.

Richard

[BEEK]

.017 intake and .019 exhaust, you will need the tool and shims for sure. Other warning, the valves can hit each other, so when turning the camshafts if you hit something, move the other cam. you wont be turning with such pressure to bend a valve. if you have to apply that much pressure something else it wrong. the covers do not need to be installed, just the towers, and again it is easier to adjust the valves before you install the timing belt.

[rjkoop]

.017 intake and .019 exhaust, you will need the tool and shims for sure. Other warning, the valves can hit each other, so when turning the camshafts if you hit something, move the other cam. you wont be turning with such pressure to bend a valve. if you have to apply that much pressure something else it wrong. the covers do not need to be installed, just the towers, and again it is easier to adjust the valves before you install the timing belt.

Yep. I saw those value in my manual. I have to learn more of the terminology for sure. I kept the tappets on the same valves to ensure I didn't screw this up.

[rjkoop]

Crap. I think they sent me the wrong belt. I got part 41146 (146 teeth) and I think I need 41148 (148 teeth). I have the 2.0l engine and I think it needs 148 teeth...

EDIT:

Confirmed by supplier that the wrong belt was sent. Waiting for new belt now...