1979 Spider 2000 restoration starts!

[noesp]

Hi fellow Fiat nutjobs,

I just posted a new member intro: http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 13&t=24730 but I figured I should probably start a thread in the resto section, being that I'll be actively restoring, posting up some pictures, and likely asking the community for some help!

Here's what I'm up against:
-A 1979 Spider 2000 that's been sitting under original owner's carport in Long Island, NY since 1991
-Rusty floors, as expected
-Sort of runs (starts with fluid, tank still empty)
-Interior and top eaten badly by raccoons
-exterior needs some TLC - aftermarket driver's fender, all else original.
-Looks like it's all stock and well cared for. Unmolested original, a good place to start.

I'm an EE, so I can troubleshoot electrical. I have a Lincoln MIG welder, and oxy setup, the MIG will come in handy for the floors. Have done body work, have a nice Finish Line spray gun and looking forward to using it! Have built engines and rebuilt transmissions in the past, but never on an Italian car. Had a 96 MG Midget a few years back, but never really liked it. Always wanted the Fiat.

As mentioned in the intro post, my game plan:
My game plan:

Pull interior.
Strip floors, weld in patches in rust areas. So far it's not looking TOO bad.
Once floor is solid and POR-15'd, check/replace fuel lines and work on mechanical.
Get engine running, change timing belt, possibly some seals if leaking.
Fix brakes... probably new master cylinder, lines, rebuild calipers, new rotors.
Finish all mechanical and get roadworthy.
Do all body work
Interior and top

Anyway, here's what I'm faced with: (these photos are supposed to be wider than they show up, not sure why right side is cut off)

[BEEK]

looks like the worst part was the darn raccoons

[RRoller123]

hmmmm.... wonder what those switches are just aft of the shifter?

[noesp]

hmmmm.... wonder what those switches are just aft of the shifter?

Haha looks like switches in the photo, but it is what's left of the ash tray.

Yeah the raccoons did a number. I'm going to have to find an entire interior.

First things first though, I just exposed full fuel lines and they are not rusted at all on the outside. They don't feel weak either, though it is possible they are grunting from the inside. But just to try things out I'm going to get some gas in the tank and try to fire her up.

Still can't pull the damn seat out. Got the two back bolts but can't slide the seat back enough to expose that front bolts. Looked for a "stopper" plate but don't see one. I see the end of the trachs are dimpled... perhaps that's the stop? I gotta get those stinky interior out. Makes my whole garage smell like raccoon piss.

As I dig further, I'm finding more and more rust in the floors. Guess I should have expected that. Tunnel looks good so far though. Same with rockers.

One question: under the floor, both sides, is what looks like a structural rail that runs basically from behind the brake pedal to the back seat. Mine looks rotted at the front bend where your heals would sit. Is this a critical part? I will weld on new floors or repair patches, but do I need to cut these out and weld on new ones? Looks like a real pain to do...

Car is not sagging. Doors open and close like butter. So I think tunnel and rockers are OK. Time will tell as I pull this thing apart.

[azruss]

I would not leave them off. you need them for floor board rigidity. The seat bolts are a problem. it will require pushing the seat upholstery up to get to the bolts. They should barely clear the metal seat tray

[vandor]

Try and lube the heck out of the seatrails then push the seat as far forward as it will go and then slam it backwards as fast and hard as you can.

> under the floor, both sides, is what looks like a structural rail that runs basically from behind the brake pedal to the back seat.

Should end right under the front seat.

> Mine looks rotted at the front bend where your heals would sit. Is this a critical part?

Yes. you can see as it goes forward it basically the main box section that holds the front of the car. So this is an important structural part. It is actually made of thicker metal than the rest of the body (the 3 pieces of the inner rockers are too).
Compared to all the other work you will be doing fixing this will not be such a big deal

[Ptoneill]

I have a tan 79 fiat spider back seat, I took mine out and no longer need it, I have no idea what shipping would cost but if you are interested let me know.

Good luck with the build!

[noesp]

I have a tan 79 fiat spider back seat, I took mine out and no longer need it, I have no idea what shipping would cost but if you are interested let me know.

Good luck with the build!

Thanks, I may be interested in that, but fist I have to assess the rust damage, and figure out how to proceed.

I see now that in looking at numerous posts here, that the rusty rails under the floorboards are my frame rails. I need to do some grinding and see just how bad it is.

I also need to remove the plastic inner fenderwells and see if the shock towers are rotted out. If they are - and bad enough where I can't just weld in some patches, then I may unload the car and look for another. The rust initially didn't look all that extensive, but I think lesson learned here!

Provided there's enough metal left so that I can weld in a fix, then I'll proceed as planned. Wasn't looking to take on a total rotisserie restoration.

[Exit98]

Advice above to lube seat rails and slam back is right. The seat goes back far enough that you can reach the bolts. I've seen this issue twice now on parts cars. If it really won't go pull off the bottom seat cushion and drill a hole in the pan above the bolts for an extension to go through.

Spiders are pretty plentiful and you can find one to work on for not too much $ that has sound shock towers. Don't get too deep into this one unless you want to. You know what you are doing, I just don't want you wasting your time. They really are fun cars and easy to work on. MG Midget isn't in the same league.

[noesp]

Just checked drivers side... shock towers look great, barely even any surface rust. Rockers are solid. Frame isn't nearly as bad as I thought. Just a couple spots. I can weld some heavy patches for extra security. Mist rust is edges of floor all around. Its a go!

[noesp]

Got her running good using a funnel full of fuel to feed the carb.

Have a question for the gurus:
If I pull the fuel pump and manually rock the lever, fuel shoots out good. Put it back on the engine I get practically nothing.

So is this a bad pump, or is it possible the aux cam flattened out(is that common?)

Should I just bail and put in an electric pump or put in a new one and give it a go?

Also it was mounted on a spacer about 1/2 inch thick. I assume that's normal?

[vandor]

>If I pull the fuel pump and manually rock the lever, fuel shoots out good. Put it back on the engine I get practically nothing.

Hm, weird. I wonder if it's possible to put the arm in 'wrong' where it's on the wrong side of the lobe.
Or possibly you are moving it a lot more by hand (longer travel), that is why it works a lot better.

>So is this a bad pump, or is it possible the aux cam flattened out(is that common?)

Never seen one that was bad.

>Should I just bail and put in an electric pump or put in a new one and give it a go?

I suppose an electric pump would be a quick bandaid to get it running.

>Also it was mounted on a spacer about 1/2 inch thick. I assume that's normal?

Yes.

[noesp]

Just ordered a new mechanical fuel pump - being that it's not a "known" problem for the pump drive cam to wear out, I'm figuring that the fuel pump that was sitting for 23 years is probably the culprit. Snagged the last one (on clearance at rockauto for $13!!)

Also ordered master cylinder, caliper rebuild kits, brake hoses, and a timing belt.

Pulled off the inner fender well on the driver's side and the shock tower is nearly perfect. Still has paint on it, barely even any surface rust! Outer tie rod end boot shot, all else looks OK. Took off caliper and took it apart. Piston and bore clean, easy rebuild.

My plan right now is to put in the new fuel pump - make sure it runs with it, then change timing belt. Rebuild all calipers, new master cylinder, new rotors and bleed and make sure brakes are good. Then I can take for a spin and see that she's driveable before I start the rust repairs.

I'm having so much fun with this car! It's a pleasure to work on (so far).

[vandor]

>Outer tie rod end boot shot,

We sell just the boot, I think most vendors don't.

[BEEK]

>If I pull the fuel pump and manually rock the lever, fuel shoots out good. Put it back on the engine I get practically nothing.

Hm, weird. I wonder if it's possible to put the arm in 'wrong' where it's on the wrong side of the lobe.
Or possibly you are moving it a lot more by hand (longer travel), that is why it works a lot better.

>So is this a bad pump, or is it possible the aux cam flattened out(is that common?)

Never seen one that was bad.

>Should I just bail and put in an electric pump or put in a new one and give it a go?

I suppose an electric pump would be a quick bandaid to get it running.

>Also it was mounted on a spacer about 1/2 inch thick. I assume that's normal?

Yes.

if one installs a 1800 fuel pump on a 2.0 engine the stroke differences on the aux shaft will not pump as much fuel, but it will pump enough to run, just not keep up with volume when full throttle is used.... dont ask how i figured this out