Leaking Engine Sump Plug

[adrians]

We'll I'm about to give up! – A constant puddle of oil on the floor!

I've tried every known product to stop the oil leaking from the engine sump plug, gasket products, plumbers tape etc...

Now - I think it's not the actual plug that's leaking?

So, has anyone every seen a leak/crack appear between the actual pan metal and the thread housing that sump plug screws into?

If there is a hairline crack do I have to remove the entire engine to remove the sump pan so that I can get it welded.

Thanks

[ventura ace]

Here's what I would try, and I emphasize 'try'. It did work for me for a similar leak for the big 2-3" plug at the tail end of the tranny.

Drain out all the oil, then squirt solvent into the pan to wash out the residual oil. Do this several times to get as much of the oil out as possible. I used alcohol as a solvent. I wouldn't use anything that would disolve the paint on the inside of your oil pan. Also, get enough solvent inside the pan so that you can thread the plug back in and hopefully the solvent will come through the crack and clean the oil out from there as well.

When you think that you have gotten the pan and the leak as oil-free as possible, try to dry it out with compressed air and / or a hair dryer. When you are sure that you have dried out the solvent, apply a wicking loctite to the areas where you think the leak is happening. Apply liberally. Let dry, then clean off any excess. They mix up some JB weld, and apply all aroung the suspected leak area. Try to spread with an applicator to have the finished look as neat as possible. You may have to continue spreading it as it dries to keep it from drooling, or use the JB putty rather than the liquid epoxy.

Hope it works. This should only take an hour or so. If it works, then count your blessings. Pulling the pan or the engine is a pretty big job!

Alvon

[So Cal Mark]

I have seen pans crack in that area; usually when they've gotten dented right on the drain plug. To pull the pan you have to raise the engine as high as possible. Then if the oil pan is still baffled, you have to drop the pan as far as possible and reach up inside and unbolt the oil pump for clearance

[adrians]

Alvon, thanks for the advice - I'll see what I can do, I'm going to try one more product " 3 Bond Anaerobic Thread Lock " see if I can get it into the crack/area.

Mark - I can't see in direct dents in that area - only at the front of the sump.

It might have to wait until in goes for an engine rebuild ! !

[Curly]

If it turns out to be a leak between the threaded insert and the sump metal rather than a plug to thread leak, I'd drain the oil, put the plug back in, clean the area around the thread insert with a wire brush, brush on some bronzing flux and try lightly brazing around the insert with an oxy torch and a thin rod. You shouldn't need too much heat, in fact too much may loosen the insert and then you'll really be in trouble.

[adrians]

Thanks Curly,

I'm not sure if I want to take a naked flame to the car ( just yet ), I plan on putting the car into Ross Smith (@ Fiatorque) in late June to have the head done I get him to look at it !

Are you coming up to Sydney for the Motori Italiani Expo at Rose Hill Racecourse on the 14/15 of June.

[Curly]

Thanks Curly,
Are you coming up to Sydney for the Motori Italiani Expo at Rose Hill Racecourse on the 14/15 of June.

This country boy had to fight his way through Sydney on my way back south after competing at Morgan Park (Warwick, Qld) at Easter, and have no desire to repeat the experience. Thanks all the same, I hope it's a great success.