1. Buy the correct tool from one of the vendors (I got mine from AutoRicambi: http://www.autoricambi.us/product/CH0-0 ... ting-Tool/) - you'll need it. Also, buy a micrometer that measures to hundredths-of-a-millimeter (thousandths-of-an-inch). You'll need that to check the width of the old valve shims, which you need to know in order to figure out the size of the needed new shims.
2. Remove the intake plenum bolts so you can slide the intake valve cover off. You don't need to take the plenum off completely.
3. Don't be lazy! Drain and remove the radiator so you can use the crank pulley nut to rotate the engine. It'll make your life a lot easier in the end. Trust me, you'll be glad you did.
4. Turn the engine clockwise (duh!)
The manual says to use a special tool to depress the valve (see instructions guide below) so you can slide the valve hold-down tool between the cam lobe and the valve. Good luck finding one. I know there's a thread here somewhere on how to make your own tool, but I didn't. I simply rotated the engine anti-clockwise just enough to remove the valve hold-down tool.5. Now, I know you are not supposed to rotate the engine anti-clockwise, but I was stupid and did it anyway. If you turn the engine anti-clockwise too much as I did ('cos I'm an idiot!), you'll end up throwing the cams and crank out of correct alignment (the timing belt will stretch and slip) and need to install a new timing belt.... as I did
6. Given the way the valves are timed, you can work from intake to exhaust sides with each partial rotation of the engine
7. Double-check the gaps between the lobe and the valve shim before you order / install the new shims and after you install the new shims. Calculate the required shims correctly, and triple-check your calculations. I triple-checked my workings twice and still managed to mess it up on two valves.
8. Measure the gaps against the backside of the cam lobes... not the sides.
9. An air compressor with a pointed nozzle is a Godsend for getting the old shims out. Just make sure you siphon off as much oil as possible out of the valve housing or it will end up all over the place. Wear safety glasses.
After adjusting the valves, I found the car idled more strongly and had more power. The inconsistent idle was reduced significantly.
In the past I have had an aversion to injector cleaning fluid, but I ran some through the vapour canister vacuum hose after the valves (and the timing belt) were fixed. The amount of white smoke was embarrassing and pissed off my neighbours, but the engine is now idling perfectly.
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