AR new ignition switch hookup

[Funcar]

I am looking for advice and information on installing my new ignition switch. The PO had lost the key and taken the old switch apart so he could take it to a locksmith to have a new key made. For what ever reason he didn't go and get the key and after 20 years can't even remember where he took it or even if the are still in business. Yes I went to several locksmith shops and endured some interesting comments!

Here are the wires.

Here is the bottom of the old switch.

Here is the bottom of the new switch.

What colour wire goes on which connector number and what are they for.

[dmwhiteoak]

Call Csaba and ask him for the diagram to connect the new switch. He will know which one it is. Also, while your there, get a diagram to connect relays to it to keep the power load off the switch. It will last longer.

[4uall]

GOOGLE my friends

This might help

http://www.fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic ... 5736bb6afe

[zachmac]

The simple answer is:

Brown to 30 (big hot wire supplying battery power via post on starter)
Black to 30/1 (smaller black wire supplying hot battery power via same post on starter)
Red to 50 (power to starter that is only powered, via 30 brown wire, when switch is held in spring loaded start position)
Pink & Blue /Blk banded to 15 (power to fuse box switched circuits (pink) and coil (blue/blk) via black wire on 30/1, connection when in on or start position, open when key off)
Blue/Grn & Blue /Red to INT (power to light switch from brown wire at 30, only when in on or start)
Green with banding to only remaining post on new switch, the other INT post.

Note that the new switch doesn't have a post corresponding to the 16 post on the original. That should be okay as I think it is just like the 50 post (only powered in start) and was part of an alternate fuel pump relay supply for mid year cars?)

[Ramzi]

Give us a call or email us and we'll be glad to help out.

[zachmac]

Note,

My previous reply stating the the last wire (Green with black and grey) must go to the remaining INT post was based on an ssumption that you DONOT have an electric fuel pump or ignition and fuel pump relays.

If you DO have an electric pump it could be the supply to it when you are first starting and haven't built oil pressure, but if you have a 1972 then it should mechanical (at least as far as Bradely Artigue's excellent wiring diagrams show)?

[Funcar]

Hey Zachmac I appreciate your follow up message.

The the green with black grey was the wire messing me up. Ramzi called me to discuss this issue and is going to send me a relay switch to resolve the hookups. He expained that this wire is for the electric fuel pump.The original ignition swith for this year (SIPEA) are hard to find and expensive if you can find one.

My Spider was reuild 25 years ago by an auto body shop and a mechanic from 2 differnt cars ...so I am not sure of the parts I need. The registration and vin is 73 but the body according to other form members is a 75 as are other parts. I am the first one to put a wrench on it for over 20 years!

So being a newbie at restoring this car I am confused but really enjoying the experience.

[zachmac]

IF your car still has a fuel pump relay and an ignition mode relaythen this needs to go to a post that only gets power in the spring loaded start postion (the 50 AND the 16 post on the original both do that). If that is the case then you could just put a two spade connector on the 50 post and run this wire and the red starter wire off that. IF you do not have the relay then this is the power for your fuel pump all the time and it can simply plug onto the spare INT post (power whenever ignition is on).

The original setup used the 16 post to power the fuel pump UNTIL the engine built oil pressure at which point one of the TWO oil presure switches activates a relay that swaps power to the fuel pump over to the fuse box supply that is powered via the pink wire off post 15. This was a safety precaution designed to kill power to the fuel pump in the event of a wreck; they assumed if the engine has stopped then the fuel pump should as well as otherwise in a wreck it could continue to pump gas out a borken line creating a fire hazard.

[Funcar]

I recieved the terminal doubler from Ranzi. I used it to make 2-15's. So here is how I hooked up the ignition wiring.
Black 30/1
Red 50
Blue Blue/Red Int
Brown 30
Gray Green Black 15
Tan Blue/Black 15

Turned the key and the engine turned over. After sitting idle for 25 years I had this real bad nagging feeling the engine might be ceased. Great. Most of the lights worked. The air horn sounds a loud high pitched squak. I can hear the new fuel pump working. The car will not start. Pulled the hose off leading to the carb and I am getting gas. Pulled a spark plug and no spark.

So where do I go from here? Do I need to purchase a multi meter. What are the elimination steps I take to diagnose and fix the electronic ignition wiring? Or did I hook up the ignition switch wrong?

[zachmac]

With the key on (not start, just on) are you getting power at the input to the coil?

[Funcar]

Yes. I bought a smart multiple meter. When I touched the wires on top of the coil it beeped. Reading 00.3.
I appreciate your help. What is the next step? I know you will probrably think at least subconsciously this guy needs to take it to a mechanic.

I do enjoy learning anf working on this car

[zachmac]

Yes. I bought a smart multiple meter. When I touched the wires on top of the coil it beeped. Reading 00.3.
I appreciate your help. What is the next step? I know you will probrably think at least subconsciously this guy needs to take it to a mechanic.

I do enjoy learning anf working on this car

00.3? You should be reading from the + post to ground (any good bolt / chassis point) and it should be battery voltage, north of 12 volts.

[aj81spider]

To add to what Zachmac said - if your meter is like mine it beeps when you are on the lowest resistance setting and have continuity, so that makes me believe you are on the wrong setting. Make sure the meter is set to "DC volts" on the 10-20 Volt scale. On my meter there is a big dial on the front that you turn to change what the meter is measuring.

Then put the minus lead (typically black) on a solid ground - that can be a bolt or piece of unpainted metal in the engine bay. Then put the plus lead (typically red) on the coil.

[Funcar]

I had bought a Mastercraft Smart Multimeter to diagnosis my ignition electrical problems. This looked like a multimeter for " DUMMIES" No dials just push start and touch the neg. lead to ground and Pos. lead to power.

Didn't seem to work so borrowed a friends no response. Is my next step to replace the coil?

[azruss]

Glen, I have never seen a multimeter without buttons or dials. Not sure what you bought. In most cases, if you have it on an ohm or resistance setting and connect it to power, it will fry the meter or blow a fuse inside the meter. e-mail me a picture of the thing. Also if you are testing voltage, you need to set the meter to a DCV setting. If it is reading AC, it wont give you a reading. you also need to be touching your probe from the + side of the coil to a chassis ground, like an unpainted bolt or spot on the body, not the engine. If your battery is in the front, you can connect the ground to the negative side of the battery or where the ground cable connects to the car.