The whole process started with having to replace the master cylinder..... insert scope creep. Sooooo. take the booster off, clean that up, respray with the kit from Eastwood, attach the masterclyinder to the booster (more on that later)
My son is home from grad school before his move to San Fancisco this coming Friday. (He is making the cross country road trip with his 79). He sees me out in the garage and says Dad, those dual webers have to get on that car
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And so the install begins. Remove the old carb and cables, drain the radiator, take off the old manifiold, scrape the intake surface clean and test fit the new manifold and carb. It doesn' fit WHAT
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Eureka
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More head scratching. Look at more forum examples of installs. Use the old gas pedal but cut the lower arm off. OK, I remove the old lower arm ( but so it can go back on later if need be) because it hits the bloomin manifold. Fabricate a cable pull arm at the end of the existing pivot linkage, fabricate a cable hold ring to mount to the carb. weld arm onto the linkage, test fit. YAHOOO. Some minor refab for the cable hold bracket and we are in business. Test fit again. Works great..... wait for it.... wait for it.. except that the cable only opens the carbs to about 85 degrees, not 90. HMMMM . Pull arm needs to be just a tad longer. Hindsight I should have measured the one off of the 78 gas pedal ( In my defense others have used the throttle arm for their same linkage, so I makde the second arm the same length and it fits nicely between the carb and the booster). I will fix that later.
Now the carbs have been set up exactly as per the 1970 specs. connect the fuel lines, connect the linkage. (had to fab a length of rod to go from the cam linkage arm to the carbs and reuse the linkage ends off of the old single carb - (5 min with the handy tap and die set and blak rod from ACE hardware) Crank the starter. sputter sputter. Tweak comutronics a couple of degrees. Crank again. VAROOOM.
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Disconnect the linkage and measure the air flow with the sync meter. 1&2 pull the same 3&$ pull the same but are off from 1&2, Adjust the mating screw until they are both the same. Adjust the Idle screw down to 850, check again with the sync meter. All 4 are pulling 3.5 on the meter. Check the timing, dead on at 10deg BTDC. Didnt touch another thing on the set up. A good. day indeed.
Now fight and I do mean fight to get the booster back in place. Took the MC off so as not to leak fluid from the bench bleed even though the plugs were in place. Booster finally in, MC back on, lines connected, brakes bled. Soft pedal. Thats another story.
Take her for a spin. OMFG
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