Brake lines.....Update..Finished!!!

[njoconnor]

Blue 72 goes back on the jack stands this weekend for a flexible brake line change out. Got new lines and speed bleeders , flare wrenches, DOT 4, vac pump kit, PB Blaster, turkey baster, etc. Been reading up on the job here and various places. Wondering about using teflon tape on the new bleeders and on the lines themselves. Some do, some don't. Opinions?

Neil

[SoFlaFiat]

I bought the speed bleeders and they come with a dab of thread sealant on them. That answered it for me.

[njoconnor]

Hmmm. I better go look at the box again. That would answer the question, wouldn't it?

Thanks, Alan!

Update:

So, back out to the garage, looked through the shipping box. Hmmm...no little packet of sealant. Looked at the bleeder screws.....why would brass threads have black valleys? Shine a better light....appears to be sealant already on threads!

Duh. But at least I got to smile at the car again.....

Neil

[SoFlaFiat]

I'm moving my dining table out to the garage so I can smile at mine while I eat dinner

[njoconnor]

After a couple days of PB bathing (which continues on the fronts....the flat nut on the outboard end of the flexible brake line is quite recalcitrant), I decided to move to the rears to assess what surprises were there.

So I find this (left rear brake, left of picture is towards front of car):



Right side is the same.

The bleeder screw is a 1/4" hex, not a metric (6mm>x>7mm). I can't even begin to get a flare wrench in there for the brake line. I can get an open end wrench (but not a flare) on the "nut" into which the bleeder screw is inserted, but it's in pretty tight (more PB and tapping). I figure if I can get the bleeder "nut" off, I can get the brake line changed. Also...since I'm changing lines...there's really nothing preventing me from taking both calipers off and working on these fasteners while the unit is clamped on a work table. (I have speed bleeders on hand, as well as a vac pump system).

But. This looks like a PO/mechanic running fix to get the car back on the road, and I'm wondering if what I have are original rear calipers with a drilled out/tapped bleeder screw. According to the work order from the PO's mechanic (in 2011), pads, rotors, and MC were all replaced and system bled. My mechanic REALLY wants me to change out the flexible lines; the one pictured actually looks pretty good, but does not appear to be same quality as the ones I have from A/R.

Thoughts? Condolences? Suggestions? Need new rear calipers? Gonna go take a walk around the yard and run errands while awaiting PB magic to happen.

Neil

[SoFlaFiat]

Is it possible that just the bleeder is the wrong type, with an out sized nut dimension? Get them out and check the thread size before I offer condolences...

Ouch!

[njoconnor]

Alan, I just looked at A/R's reman rear calipers....no nut under the bleeder! Uh oh.

Gonna think on this a bit.

Neil

[spider2081]

I believe the bleeder is a "help" card bleeder repair kid available from most chain auto parts stores.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorm ... /5012856-P

[njoconnor]

I looked at the link, spider, and yup....I'm pretty sure it's what I have here. Funny...one of the reviews talks about how the base "breaks" at 19 ftlbs torque...I can tell you it's more than 19 on my car!

So. Pending other ideas, I guess I'll dismount both calipers, clamp 'em down, and unfasten the "helpers" and the bleeders, then swap the hoses, then try a reinstall on the helpers. If the helpers strip out or don't seal, I guess it's reman'ed calipers (which aren't as expensive as I thought....).

Hadn't intended to learn about caliper removal this month, but, hey....ever freshening horizons, and all that....

Neil

[spider2081]

If you are replacing the the brake hoses you might.

I remove the fluid reservoir cap and cover wit ha piece of Glad press N seal the put an elastic band around it. If you seal it good the brake fluid will not all drain out.

Try and rotate the large nut on the bleeder repair kit so there is slightly more clearance between it and the rubber brake line fitting. Cut the brake hose right at the fitting and use a deep socket over the remaining bit of hose.

[njoconnor]

Before I started, I capped both reservoir openings with plastic, and screwed down the caps. Still got some gravity leakage, but I'm ok....was planning on all ne fluid anyway.

Well...after teaching myself to remove a caliper/yoke, and persuading the banjo bolt out with a little cordless impact driver, I got the fronts done on both sides. Didn't need the driver on the right; I figured out the bolt keeper by that time. Need a favor; could someone look at the pic below and make sure I have the outboard end installed correctly (I have the angled side of the banjo bolt mounting pointing towards the top of the fender)? Rather know now then when I start bleeding.



And, no, I did not take note when I took the old ones off....

As for the rears....giving them another day of soaking and tapping. Spouse sez "just get the reman units and be done". That "helper/repair" nut is in way tight; and all I can use is a regular open end, due to the tight clearances. Still pondering step next on the rears. I'll have a go at the compensator later this week..

Thanks...

Neil

[SoFlaFiat]

I love your wife!!!

[njoconnor]

She got a good chuckle out of that!

So, guess I'm going shopping for reman's. The learning never quits.

Neil

[fiatmike124]

To answer your question, I think the angled side is meant to be down. I dont see why it wouldnt function just fine the way you have it though.

[njoconnor]

Thanks, Mike. I'm afraid I agree with you; the nut locking bracket is straight, not angled up (I "modded" the one in the photo...should have been my no-duh clue). Reversing it will not be difficult, since I haven't refilled the system yet anyway. Plus...on another thread....I learned that I really need to clean up my caliper wedges and slider. Mine do not move at all by hand. That clean up may well go better (and faster) with the caliper and yoke off the car. So....more learning....and doing.....

Remanned calipers are inbound for the rear (thanks, Chris!!). Thankfully pads and rotors are essentially new, since they were put on less than 500 miles ago by the PO and his mech. All this will make swapping out the front rotors/pads on the Dakota feel like child's play next month!

Thanks....additional comments/observations always welcome!

Neil