1985.5 Pininfarina Fuel Injection Hose Replacement

[hobonamy]

First of all, thanks to those who contribute to the board! You have given me the confidence to tackle the challenge of getting my 1985.5 Pininfarina back on the road after many years of being sidelined for brake issues.
So far, I have dipped and sealed the fuel tank and replaced all of the fuel hoses in the rear of the car. I will install new fuel filter and pump this weekend. The timing belt, water pump, cam & crankshaft seals have all been replaced. I think my next task before attempting to start the car is to replace the vacuum lines and all of the fuel lines in the engine compartment.
So... I am seeking advice on the best approach for replacing the fuel injection hoses. My biggest concern is that I have some sort of anti-theft device installed just forward of the master cylinder and it seems to be very tight quarters.
Should I remove the anti-theft device, master cylinder, reservior to gain better access to the fuel rail and fuel injection hoses? Your advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Bob

[narfire]

Ummm not sure how close the anti theft device is, perhaps a picture?
Anyway the rail and associated parts will come out without too much fuss. The brake bits can stay in place.
The 10mm nuts holding the injectors in place are straight forward with a 1/4" ratchet.
Do disconnect the pos cable on the battery before mucking about. Touch the hot lead on the starter and you may have a big spark with leaking fuel...
When or if you replace the short injector hoses, use the proper fuel hose clamps and orientate the screw/nut where you can tighten them up if needed when all is back in place, a mistake I made once....
Chris

[azruss]

my fuel rail hoses were so stiff i had to cut them off. not a fun job at all. measure the new hoses accurately, they need to be the same length. would recommend having your injectors services. you need to use the right high pressure fuel hose. im sure the usual vendors carry it. I used the original end cups but most use a high quality hose clamp instead.

[vandor]

> Do disconnect the pos cable on the battery before mucking about

It's actually better to disconnect the negative cable. That way there is no current flow if either battery terminal is grounded by accident.

[hobonamy]

Thanks for the prompt replies. Here are some pictures to show the anti-theft device.

[vandor]

I would remove it and throw it away...

[narfire]

You should still be able to get at the 10mm nuts. Might want to undo and pull that thing out of the way regardless.
I use a steering wheel bar for theft protection. Hot item for theft around here at the moment is snow mobiles and other similar toys, Fiat Spiders not so much.

[spider2081]

I agree when disconnecting a battery always disconnect the negative terminal first. When installing a battery always connect the positive terminal first.
I didn't see mentioned there could be a need for a 5mm Allen wrench to remove the original bolt that holds the rail to the intake manifold. This bolt is located close to the pressure regulator on the rail. Sometimes PO replace it with a bolt that uses a 10mm socket.
Also the fuel line feed to the rail can be difficult to disconnect. Its best to use flare nut wrenches on this line. I some times cut the feed and return hoses when removing a rail. It is easier than trying to remove them in one piece and I usually replace them with new hose anyway.
In most automotive parts stores the is a section with "Help" cards that have common replacement parts. Card 90100 has the correct size "O" rings to replace all the seals on the injectors. Actually it contains 6 sets of injector seals.
Finally I use a Dremal tool with a small carbide ball to make a slice on the old hose right into the little cups. This makes removing brittle hoses much easier. A little grease and heat make installing the new hoses easier.

[hobonamy]

Thanks all for the replies. I was hesitant to remove the anti-theft device because I am not sure it has anything to do with the starting circuit. I will take plenty of pictures as I methodically remove it.
I really appreciate the tips on getting at the fuel rail. I figure many pictures and a slow approach will work for me. At this point, working on the car is a pleasurable endeavor. I imagine once i get it up and running again it will seem more like work

[narfire]

At this point, working on the car is a pleasurable endeavor. I imagine once i get it up and running again it will seem more like work

That is what FIAT stands for Fixing It As Therapy

[hobonamy]

I started replacing the fuel hoses in the engine compartment today. I removed the anti-theft stuff and went ahead and removed the brake reservoir as I was going to replace it anyway. +1 on the use of flare wrenches on the fuel supply line into the rail. 17mm and a 12mm flare wrench did the trick. After wrestling the first fuel hose, I decided to pull the whole fuel rail and injectors. It seemed to be the most manageable way to do it.
What do you think of the injectors? They looked a lot dirtier than I expected...although, I have no frame of reference. I am looking for advice on what to do...replace injectors with new or to have them and the fuel rail reconditioned? Here are some pix....

[azruss]

I found a place in Tempe that rebuilt mine for $15 a pop. They even replaced a cracked nozzle. They pre-tested and post tested. The guy apologized because he couldnt get them all above 98%. 2 of them were at zero when he started. This is good bang for the buck.

[narfire]

No harm in having them cleaned and flow tested. No need to replace. Ask around who does that sort of thing. Here I use a semi retired fellow that has the proper equipment and charges $25.00 (cdn) per injector including replacing the very small screen filter in the top of the injector. When he flow tested some I gave him a couple of years ago, one was really low so it got binned.