engine stand

[pablogustav]

good afternoon folks,
My spider has over 200,000 miles on it and is consuming oil at about 1 quart / 800 miles. I love putting oil in it, but I have also assumed the inevitable and purchased an 1800 motor that was rebuilt about 15,000 miles ago. My question is if anyone has a recommendation for a brand of engine stand that works well for mounting the little 4 banger to that is stable and also has wheels to move it around.
thanks so much

[Curly]

The type that you purchase doesn't need to be a particularly heavy duty one, if you are only using it for the Fiat motor. I have found the best method of mounting a Fiat motor on an engine stand is to fabricate up a bracket to fit on the engine mounting fittings on the exhaust side of the engine. This give you access to everything on the engine that you need to remove and replace.

[Curly]

This might help explain what I mean:

[mdrburchette]

That does seem to make getting to things pretty easy. Mine is on a cheap stand bolted from the flywheel side:

[pope]

I am assuming that you use a cherry picker to install the engine. Has anyone installed the trans to the engine and inserted it throught the engine compartment instead of attaching it from below?

[Curly]

Has anyone installed the trans to the engine and inserted it throught the engine compartment instead of attaching it from below?

Yep! It can be done, but the central steering link has to be removed and I did it over a pit which allows the back of the gearbox to drop right down. The angle of the engine and gearbox has to be very steep.

[rlux4]

Denise, is that black crackle paint I see on the block?
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

I was going to ask the same question

[pope]

I think Mike sneaked in to D's garage and sprayed her lower end with black K.

[mdrburchette]

Nope! That's just paint over a nice clean block. Looks good, doesn't it?
As for installing the engine with the tranny attached, it's not a bad job at all, but like Curly says, the car has to be high on jackstands to get the shifter to clear. I do take the chrome piece of the shifter off and pull the radiator out to give enough clearance for the crank pulley and oil pan. It's a two "man" job with one manuevering the cherry picker and the other under the car, guiding the transmission.

[rlux4]

If you say it's not crackle paint, then I believe you. Yes, it does look good.
Ron



(sure looks like crackle paint though)

[pope]

Ron, she knows what she has to say...that 80's are superior to 70's and then we will believe D that it is not krackle.

[mdrburchette]

You guys might as well just open wide and BITE ME. There is no way I'd ever say an 80's car was superior to an early 70's model. Are you forgetting that I own a 1982 X19 that has been sitting in purgatory for the last few months?

[ventura ace]

. . . As for installing the engine with the tranny attached, it's not a bad job at all, but like Curly says, the car has to be high on jackstands to get the shifter to clear. I do take the chrome piece of the shifter off and pull the radiator out to give enough clearance for the crank pulley and oil pan. It's a two "man" job with one manuevering the cherry picker and the other under the car, guiding the transmission.

I pulled an engine / tranny combo out recently, and found it to be a really tight fit. The cylinder head was in place on the engine. I've heard that it's much easier to do this if the cylinder head is left off until the engine / tranny are installed.

Alvon

[manoa matt]

If you got a late model big bumper car, take the front bumper off. It will let you get the engine crane about 6-8 inches closer. You don't have to extend the arm so much, and the crane will be more stable. My preferred method is to raise the car, and slide the trans out. Then lower the car and pick the engine and head out. Having the crane that high with the engine and trans together at such a steep angle always scared me. Always thought something would go wrong and then I'd need a new fender.