75 spider smog pump and emissions?

[NickSpider]

Ok I have heard of some people removing the emissions related components. I ordered a new smog pump pulley from Vicks and it was not shipped, so I am assuming out of stock and that was a month ago. What is involved in removing the emissions controls on my 75 spider 1800. Just got the radiator and fuel tank back, radiator shopped fixed the two and relined the gas tank. Is there more to that just taking off the smog pump?

I am going to be getting a new exhaust, the whole thing is rusted out, probably just take it to an exhaust shop, can I have them take out the original catalytic converter and not put a new one back in, therefore bypassing it, considering I am in Texas and emission testing is not done on older cars. Any problems associated with doing this?

[So Cal Mark]

you're MUCH better off without the smog pump. That cam-driven pump will cause major engine damage if it seizes up, and that's a common occurence. An exhaust shop may not want to remove the cat since it's a federal crime to do so. If you can't find one to do it, just remove it yourself and drive quietly to the exhaust shop

I'd also remove all of the egr equipment along with the pump and cat

[chrisg]

if your car is not a California spec car, it shouldn't have a cat in it's "original" configuration. The early original exhausts had three muffler/resonator sections, but no cat. Hopefully, that's helpful - good luck with the exhaust.

[NickSpider]

you're MUCH better off without the smog pump. That cam-driven pump will cause major engine damage if it seizes up, and that's a common occurence. An exhaust shop may not want to remove the cat since it's a federal crime to do so. If you can't find one to do it, just remove it yourself and drive quietly to the exhaust shop

I'd also remove all of the egr equipment along with the pump and cat

What is entailed to remove the smog pump? Is there anything else I will need to remove or cap off?

[So Cal Mark]

you will need to cap off the check valve in the cyl head or remove the entire air injection rail.

[NickSpider]

you will need to cap off the check valve in the cyl head or remove the entire air injection rail.

since i am new to this, i am not quite sure exactly what to remove. I just pulled out the hayes manual. So basically I just need to cap off the check valve and thats it? What is the air injection rail?

or is it better just to remove all the line and the pump all together, but I am assuming as long as I don't put the belt back on the air pump is fine to leave it attached, just not connected to drive belt?

sorry for all the newb questions, but the hayes manual is not very descriptive on anything.

[So Cal Mark]

you could leave it intact and just remove the belt, but why? You could cap the check valve, but removing the air injection rail cleans things up and makes access to the spark plugs and temp sending units alot easier. The rail is the piece that the check valve attaches to. It has a tube into each cylinder inbetween the cam housings

[JeremyB]

I removed my emissions over teh winter from my 76. Playing from memory, here it goes. Remove the air pump. If memory serves, its held on with a big clamp on the bottom that bolts to the block. Teh issue with this is the timing belt cover. Remove the cover. I had a hard time gettign the cover all the way off. Instead, I disconnected the radiator hose that is just beneath the air pum[p, and moved it out of th eway. Then I removed the air valve thing next to it bolted to the wall of the engine compartment. This si the white plastic thingy with all of teh little vacuum lines. After this, I started to follow the vac lines around the rear of the engine, I disconnected it, and put a vacuum cap where it connected to. Then I removed the EGR vavle from the top of teh intake side cam cover. After dfoing this, I had to folow the little metal lines, and disconnect them too. THe lines (if memory serves) started at the intake manifold, went to the EGR, then out of th eEGR into the little rail that had 4 inlet bolts going into the head.
I disconnected the line at the mainfold, and bolted it to prevent vaceem leaks at the manifold. Then I cut little steel plates to cover both sides of where the EGR was bolted (again to prevent vac leaks). Wher eI removed the air rail thing, I bought 4 bolts the same thread size, inserted them into the head.
Oh yeah, one of the biggest PITA was removing the big banjo bolts and metal line fromt eh exhaust manifold. It was damn near impossible to remov ewithout breaking the studs that held the bolt in place. I got one off, and broke the second stud. Fortunately, there was enough thread left on the broken stud to allow me to get a nut on it. I made a steel plate to cover the opening in the exhaust manifold. If you get a new manifold with your new exhaust, then this step will nto matter.
The other issue was, which vacuum lines to remove or keep on the intake/carb side. I decided to leave most of these lines.
Hope this helps.
Im sure I forgot something.