Weatherproofing electrical connections

[KevAndAndi]

We don't plan to drive our Spider in the snow or rain, but nevertheless, I'm concerned about protecting electrical connections from road splash, crud, and corrosion. Specifically, I temporarily wired up a new fuel pump, using ring connectors to the two posts on the pump. (The posts are parallel to the long axis of the cylindrical fuel pump.) On one wire was an existing rubber boot and on the other was an existing shrink wrap sleeve. Which method is better?

If I went with the former, I'd have to find another rubber boot somewhere, and make sure the boots didn't slip down, away from the connections. If I went with the latter, I would re-do with two new shrink tubes. The ring connectors make shrink wrapping a little more awkward than with spade connectors, but I suppose I could bend the ring connectors' tabs to be parallel with the wires, to make a tighter, more "cylindrical" arrangement.

Are there other methods I should consider? Is there tape that would work? Obviously, standard electrical tape is not suitable. I saw something on the web about "self-fusing" tape. Has anyone used that?

[racydave]

I would concentrate on the crimp connection at the wires. I like to remove the plastic from the terminals use shrink wrap, and solder the wires.

[baltobernie]

Look for "adhesive-lined" heat shrink tubing and connectors online or at marine retailers. These products look like conventional terminals and tubing, but they contain plastic that melts and completely weatherproofs the connection upon activation. When the joint cools, you'll notice a little bit of it has oozed out of the joint (and hardened).

[KevAndAndi]

Look for "adhesive-lined" heat shrink tubing and connectors online or at marine retailers. These products look like conventional terminals and tubing, but they contain plastic that melts and completely weatherproofs the connection upon activation. When the joint cools, you'll notice a little bit of it has oozed out of the joint (and hardened).

Cool. I have never heard of that!

[focodave]

Another suggestion (not saying it is the best --- just another thing to consider) is mastic tape.
NOT masking tape, but MASTIC tape.
It will bond to itself and make a connection water-proof.
You can buy it in small rolls at Lowe's home stores --- made by Scotch (3M) and they call it "2228 Moisture Sealing Electrical Tape" It comes in a 1" X 4' roll.
Works very well. I have used it on antenna connections, for cellular telemetry, outdoors many times with great success.

[azruss]

the problem you have is an awkward geometry to seal. I would try liquid electrical tape or liquid vinyl like the stuff you dip plier handles in. just brush on a couple of coats.

[focodave]

the problem you have is an awkward geometry to seal. I would try liquid electrical tape or liquid vinyl like the stuff you dip plier handles in. just brush on a couple of coats.

Mastic tape can be "molded" around studs, connectors, etc sort of like putty.
It is very easy to seal any geometric shape with Mastic.
The tape is more like a strip of extremely sticky rubber that can be stretched and adheres to itself like glue.
Pretty handy stuff -- often used for underground electrical connections to make them water-tight.

[JEEPER]

I would concentrate on the crimp connection at the wires. I like to remove the plastic from the terminals use shrink wrap, and solder the wires.

X2 crimps connectors tend to corrode soldering is the best fix in my experience.

[DieselSpider]

On a wire splice I will go old school and use a Western Union knot, solder it and then use a well pump shrink wrap that is for sealing connections on submersible deep well pumps. A little No-Corrode paste or Dielectric Grease on the spade and ring terminals after crimping and soldering them helps too.

[spider2081]

Just saying,
Am I correct that you changed the fuel pump because the original pump was questionable or defective? If so then the problem with your pump was not the original 33+ year old crimped push spade connector. How much more reliable do you think any of suggestions will be.
The original boots on Fiat fuel pump crimped connectors protected the connections, well enough, all this time. Why is there a need for something better? I think the boots are a good compromise between protection and serviceability.

The push on spade connectors are designed with a temper to the metal so it holds tension when mating with the pump. Soldering this type of terminal is not recommended because the heat changes the connectors ability to retain that tension.

For most applications good quality crimp connectors, properly crimped with proper tools make better electrical connections than soldered connections. One reason for this is the resistance of solder is about 13 times greater that copper. Solder can actually add resistance to a connection. So the heat can damage the connector and the solder can be adding resistance to the connection.

[4uall]

This might help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgUgh3gphA8

[spider2081]

I am not trying to picky but there are many ill conceived thoughts on crimping connectors.

First tools designed years ago for non insulated terminals should not be used on insulated terminals. I could be wrong but the video shows a tool that resembles a popular tool manufactured by Sta-Kon for non insulated terminals. Its crimping points are sort of a design where one fits into the other. It sort of stakes one side of the terminal to the wire. Proper tools for insulated terminals have crimping surfaces that are slightly curved or flat. They exert a compression from both sides of the terminal increasing the area on the terminal that is compressed on the wire.
When stranded wire is crimped strands that are sharp angles to each other can be cut into from the crimp pressure. Once the wire is stripped it is not good practice to twist the wire tighter than the original twist. Some terminal manufacturers even suggest slightly untwisting the strands to reduce the chance of strands cutting themselves into from the crimp force. The video shows the strands being twisted after striping. Care should be taken not to twist the strands tighter than they originally were.

[4uall]

LMFAO!

I was just trying to show something to help. I am by no means an expert at anything...................well maybe at being awesome but that's it

[KevAndAndi]

Just saying,
Am I correct that you changed the fuel pump because the original pump was questionable or defective? If so then the problem with your pump was not the original 33+ year old crimped push spade connector. How much more reliable do you think any of suggestions will be.
The original boots on Fiat fuel pump crimped connectors protected the connections, well enough, all this time. Why is there a need for something better? I think the boots are a good compromise between protection and serviceability.

The push on spade connectors are designed with a temper to the metal so it holds tension when mating with the pump. Soldering this type of terminal is not recommended because the heat changes the connectors ability to retain that tension.

For most applications good quality crimp connectors, properly crimped with proper tools make better electrical connections than soldered connections. One reason for this is the resistance of solder is about 13 times greater that copper. Solder can actually add resistance to a connection. So the heat can damage the connector and the solder can be adding resistance to the connection.

I replaced the fuel pump because (a) there had been no fuel strainer between the fuel tank and the pump (one is now in place); (b) I suspected that the health of the pump had been compromised, because; (c) it suddenly began making a loud noise, and; (d) it appeared to be old, perhaps even original, and; (e) I visually identified some sediment and rust in the fuel tank.

The problem with this particular Facet fuel pump is that if one prefers the spade connectors, then one would have to attach the two supplied blades - one narrow and one wide - to the electrical posts on the pump using the supplied washer, lock washer, and nut, and these blades would be coming off of the end of the pump at right angles to the long axis of the pump. In other words, there is no discernable advantage to that arrangement, except the ability for a quick release of the wires. Instead, I crimped ring connectors to the wires (using conductive glue for good measure) and screwed the ring connectors to the pump's posts using the washer, lock washer, and nut. It's the same awkward geometry I would have had with the spade connectors, but it gives me comfort that there's almost no way the connectors will be accidentally detached from the pump.

Anyone know where I could get rubber boots to protect the connections?

Addendum:

I found mastic tape on Amazon and will probably go with that. (Thanks, focodave, for the suggestion.) It looks like it would have some other useful applications around the house and garage. It appears to be more or less equivalent to the "self-fusing" tape I saw somewhere. I understand it cannot really be unwrapped once wrapped, but I presume it can be cut off. Perhaps it would be a good idea to wrap wire with electrical tape before wrapping with mastic tape. This would ensure that the actual connections are not subjected to sticky nastiness.

[spider2081]

Wow I recently retired from an Aviation shop and whenever I needed an electrical boot I went to the parts room and took one off the shelf. I thought they were easy to find. After reading your post I searched online and couldn't find a supply to recommend. I will check with the shop I retired from tomorrow and see where they purchase them.
On a funny note my first search "electrical boot" turned up different boots for electricians to wear to insulate themselves from electrical shock.

Good the hear you have solved your problem.