Weatherproofing electrical connections

[KevAndAndi]

Wow I recently retired from an Aviation shop and whenever I needed an electrical boot I went to the parts room and took one off the shelf. I thought they were easy to find. After reading your post I searched online and couldn't find a supply to recommend. I will check with the shop I retired from tomorrow and see where they purchase them.
On a funny note my first search "electrical boot" turned up different boots for electricians to wear to insulate themselves from electrical shock.

Good the hear you have solved your problem.

I, too, was unable to find any electrical boot (of the non-footwear-kind) online that wasn't intended for spark plug wires! It's nice to have a source at one's workplace for items like that. Cough pilfering cough.

[nalle]

Normally when working with higher voltages you always use heat shrinking tube to make waterproof joints.
Tube usually have a glue inside of it, glue makes it fully waterproof.
For an example if you have to make a cable connection (joint two cables) under the ground you always use shrinking tube.
And electrical connections will always be done with crimp connectors.

ok, aways is too much to say but in most of the cases.

The self fusing butyl tape ( http://tuotteet.etra.fi/en/g14855312/ni ... rical-tape) is usually used in places where it is impossible to use tube.

I have used shrinking tube with all connectors and self fusing tape in places where it's difficult to put a tube, like if I have a multi wire cable and I want to take one wire out of it. like Y connection.

Normal "PVC electric tape" is quite useless.

[spider2081]

I, too, was unable to find any electrical boot (of the non-footwear-kind) online that wasn't intended for spark plug wires! It's nice to have a source at one's workplace for items like that. Cough pilfering cough.

Well I went to the shop and checked. Unfortunately there were only 2 left in stock of the size I think you need. So I didn't take them. The correct part number for the boots is MS25171-1S and they are available in red/orange and also in white. One source is
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com Here is a link to a diagram of the boot. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/im ... s25171.pdf

I also found that many sources refer to the boot and "electrical terminal nipple". I am pretty sure if you Google "nipple" you will see images that do not resemble something you could use on the fuel pump.

[81SPIDERMATT]

now that is funny

[lanciahf]

Kevin,

Check the inside of your tank, if its rusty your pre-filter will not last long before it gets clogged. Happened to me, only a new or refurbished tank will solve your problem of Crud.

[spider2081]

I used POR15 tank sealer on a leaking tank 2 years and about 8,000 miles ago. So far it seams pretty good.
They suggested using a degreaser with hot water to remove the varnish like sludge that develops in tanks where fuel sits for a period of time. Then to use a phosphoric acid etch to clean tank of rust before sealing. I have seen here where some people put stones in the tank and shake it to scratch off the rust. I recently tried that on another tank and it works very well. Getting the stones out of the tank after is a task in itself. That tank didn't leak so I didn't seal it.
There has been a lot posted about the FI pumps input need to be unrestricted. They state the pumps are poor at sucking on the input side of the pump. That would mean a filter before the pump can not be too restrictive. I believe some other auto manufacturers using the same pump and FI system do filter the input to the pump. Some of our vendors sell these filters. I installed a filter recommended by WIX when I sealed the first tank. It is their PN 33248. I recently cut it open. By its design about a shot glass of junk would have to be captured inside the filter before it would restrict flow.

New tanks have very appealing prices so I am not sure its worth sealing a leaking tank.

[lanciahf]

Dave,

How do you get the phosphoric acid etch out of the tank before sealing? Do you need to rinse it?

[KevAndAndi]

I, too, was unable to find any electrical boot (of the non-footwear-kind) online that wasn't intended for spark plug wires! It's nice to have a source at one's workplace for items like that. Cough pilfering cough.

Well I went to the shop and checked. Unfortunately there were only 2 left in stock of the size I think you need. So I didn't take them. The correct part number for the boots is MS25171-1S and they are available in red/orange and also in white. One source is
http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com Here is a link to a diagram of the boot. http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/im ... s25171.pdf

I also found that many sources refer to the boot and "electrical terminal nipple". I am pretty sure if you Google "nipple" you will see images that do not resemble something you could use on the fuel pump.

Thanks, that was very kind of you.

[KevAndAndi]

Normally when working with higher voltages you always use heat shrinking tube to make waterproof joints.
Tube usually have a glue inside of it, glue makes it fully waterproof.
For an example if you have to make a cable connection (joint two cables) under the ground you always use shrinking tube.
And electrical connections will always be done with crimp connectors.

ok, aways is too much to say but in most of the cases.

The self fusing butyl tape ( http://tuotteet.etra.fi/en/g14855312/ni ... rical-tape) is usually used in places where it is impossible to use tube.

I have used shrinking tube with all connectors and self fusing tape in places where it's difficult to put a tube, like if I have a multi wire cable and I want to take one wire out of it. like Y connection.

Normal "PVC electric tape" is quite useless.

Agreed, but as I stated before, it seems that electrical tape could be wrapped around a connection which is then completely wrapped with self-fusing tape. In theory, the normally-useless electrical tape would provide a benefit that way - the benefit of keeping the connection free of self-fusing tape gunky goo, in case one wished to expose the connection later.

[KevAndAndi]

Kevin,

Check the inside of your tank, if its rusty your pre-filter will not last long before it gets clogged. Happened to me, only a new or refurbished tank will solve your problem of Crud.

My tank actually appears to be fairly new. I am keeping it full (the PO apparently did not) to prevent oxidation. As I mentioned in a previous post, the amount of trash in the tank was tiny - a couple of flakes of rust and a few grains of sediment. Nevertheless, I installed the pre-pump strainer as a precaution to protect the pump. I intend to inspect the strainer. If it ends up somehow killing the pump, well, c'est la vie. Thank for for the words of caution, though.