"Click" then nothing (0 volts)

[burgandy81]

Hi All,

I am having a strange issue that I do not understand.

Over the last couple of months my car has had a strange issue where the starter will make a loud click and then nothing will happen. All the dash lights and radio loose power and my electrical gauge reads 0. Removing the key and turning the ignition does does nothing,

The only way to fix this 0 volts condition was to disconnect the battery and reconnect it. The car would usually start fine after one or two of these episodes.

This has become more frequent of late and today it will not start no matter how many times I have disconnected and re-connected the battery.

So far i have.....

Cleaned both battery posts (they looked fine)
tightened the cables to the batter terminal clamps (no significant corrosion)
Checked and tightened the battery ground, engine ground
Charged the battery

My current hypothesis is that the starter is failing and shorts out the system when engaged. Is this possible?

Any idea what may be happening?

Cheers,

Jordan

[vandor]

Check that the large cable from the battery to the starter is secure at the starter.

[So Cal Mark]

you're experiencing a voltage drop at a connection. You can use a voltmeter at each connection to find the drop under load

[RRoller123]

I used to call this "the click of death". Check the connections at C17 just behind the ignition switch. And of course the ignition switch connections themselves.

[azruss]

I have seen the symptom caused by dirty contact in the starter solenoid as well as all the previously mentioned items. Start by cleaning battery contacts, battery ground, engine ground, starter lug connections.

[burgandy81]

Large green cable securely attached to starter.
Engine ground rechecked. Clean and tight.

Could this be a battery issue? The battery is 3 years old and has been severely discharged a couple of times due to parasitic load and non use of the car.

The battery charger indicates that the battery is fully charged although only reads 12.43 at the terminals.

I will keep checking.

[124JOE]

if you think its the battery then
feed it 1 amp for 12 to 16 hours
and try again

[spider2081]

Have you checked the ignition switch connector C17 and connections on the ignition switch itself?
To check the battery measure the battery voltage on the battery posts when you are attempting to crank the engine. If it is 12 plus volts you have a bad connection somewhere. If the voltage drops to 6 or below the battery is bad or your starter could be shorted internally.

[burgandy81]

Have not checked C17 yet.
I have a relay and starter button to keep starting current away from the ign switch.

Measured at battery terminals:
12.45 Volts when battery disconnected.
12.40 Volts when battery connected and ign on.
12.35 Volts when starter engaged (just a load click, no turning)

So battery is good.

I will keep checking connections.

What does a dead starter act like?

[burgandy81]

One more measurement.

key out of ignition Voltage at the starter lug is 12.35V
Ign on the voltage is 1V

[DieselSpider]

One more measurement.

key out of ignition Voltage at the starter lug is 12.35V
Ign on the voltage is 1V

Have you cleaned the connection at the start solenoid? You could have a bad solenoid on the starter or just a bunch of corrosion between the battery cable and the main lug on the starter. I just got towed a few weeks or so ago when the corrosion on the main lug on the starter got so bad that the field in the starter solenoid finally gave out. Thankfully a small Mom and Pop starter rebuilder had a NOS starter solenoid in the remains of the box it originally came in so I was not down for more than a day. Mind you mine pulls a lot more current to start being a Diesel Conversion however needs less to keep it running as it is a totally mechanical system aside from the fuel shutoff.

[spider2081]

If I am understanding you measurements correctly there is a problem with the battery Positive cable. Put the meter neg lead on the battery neg terminal. Use a sharp needle or pin that will puncture the battery plus cable insulation. Insert pin through the insulation about 1 inch from the battery plus terminal. Reading should be 12 volts with key on. If much less there is a bad connection between that point and the battery positive terminal. If it checks good move pin to 1 inch from crimp terminal at starter solenoid terminal and puncture insulation. Measure voltage again with the key on. If it is 12 volts the problem is between the pin and the stud on the starter solenoid terminal. I have seen battery cables break at the crimp but the insulation makes the wire appear intact.

[burgandy81]

DieselSpider

Thanks for the thoughts. Battery solenoid connection is clean and tight with no visible corrosion and a light coating of dielectric grease.

Spider 2081,

Interesting, I will explore the cables close to the terminal ends as described.


My thinking is that the starter is failing and shorting out when solenoid is powered up. The click I hear is the solenoid being triggered indicating the trigger voltage and the battery voltage are working. The positive battery post on the starter has a strong reading (12.3 V) that only drops (1V) after the solenoid has been engaged. Is this reasonable?

[DieselSpider]

Has the connection been disassembled recently to verify or is it being inspected only from the surface? It still may be time take the cables off the stud and verify.

What is the result if you connect a jump starter directly to the starter? Does it drop the the jump starter to 0 volts also? If not then it very well may be the crimp.

[RRoller123]

Before you too much further, I would suggest that you check C17, it is easy, follow the leads from the ign switch down about 6 inches. White block connector.