Cold stumble...starts and dies?

[81autospider]

Now that my cooling problem is fixed...I want to address another issue that annoys me...no matter what the temp is out side, when I first start the car it runs OK for a few seconds then dies...it averages about 3-4 times every time the car is first started...If I try to give it gas to keep it running it feels like a flat spot in a carb set up and still dies...after about the 4th time I can give just a little pressure on the throttle and it will finally stay running...but until it gets to running temp the idle quality is poor and erratic...I wish I had the mechanical VW style Bosch becuz I know how to work on those...there are many more components on the L-Bosch system am not familiar with..I also experience on the highway, I don't think that full power operation is working...when I mash down on the pedal the auto trans down shifts but that extra oomph just isn't there to make the car really move...the car has 93K original miles and is mechanically sound but feel that neglect of not visiting the mechanic with regular check ups is to blame for how she runs...not to mention that there are not many shops that will even touch these cars nowadays...around town driving is fine and the car seems to have good power...any suggestions on where to start looking and what items to check and what the ranges should be at?...any help in solving these issues would be great...I am not a trained mechanic but am very knowledgeable when it comes to a cars electrical system and mechanically understanding how a fuel injection system is suppose to operate...this Bosch system to me is like alien to me...Ford, no problem, Chevy, no problem, Bosch, what the heck is that!

If anyone has had this same issue please advise...I really want to enjoy my car and get this car back into shape so I can enjoy driving it for the first time...thank you all in advance

[So Cal Mark]

The L Jetronic system is really basic and easy to work on once you become familiar with it. You'll need the FI diagnosis manual and a volt/ohmmeter. I think Brad Artigue has a copy of the manual on his site. Before you delve into the system, check a few basics; make sure the afm flap doesn't stick, verify proper fuel pressure and a clean filter, make sure there aren't any fuel or air leaks, make sure connectors fit tight. After that, you'll need the manual to check the various sensors

[rlux4]

When I first got my car I felt the same way you're feeling about the FI system. But, like Mark says, after I got Brad Argtigue's FI mini manual studied it became much easier to understand and diagnose. Find the manual in his download "Fiat 124 Spider Engine Maninenancew & Modification" here: http://www.artigue.com/fiat.php
When you check the AFM flap for free movement, don't do like I first did and reach a finger inside the plenum to check it. It moved just fine as far as I was able to move it. However, when stalling during acceleration continued I took it apart to check, and sure enough, just about 1/2 way through it's range of motion it was hanging up on gunk build up on the sides of the plenum. I cleaned it off and spray siliconed it. That fixed the problem dramatically.
Ron

[81autospider]

OK... now I have another problem...this one different...after sitting for five hours, I went to start the car and it was stubborn to start...it started but was really hard to start...this is the first time this had happened cuz usually it starts right up...frustrating

I have the original Bosch service manuals from Sequoia Institute that my brother gave me...they are genuine Robert Bosch Corporation manuals that the school used to train their techs...so I will go now so that I can do some read 'n

[So Cal Mark]

you may have an injector leaking

[81autospider]

Actually Mark...as far as I got with the Bosch service manual says to pinch off the cold start supply line with the engine warm and running...if the idle improves then it is leaking...so I pinched the fuel line and no difference in idle quality...I did this to verify that the cold start valve is working good and it is...it does start better since I turned down the screw that was hidden deep down at the air boot connection that comes off the air meter...it was like 4 turns out from the bottom...the idle seemed to improve from that point on...I believe this screw is the mixture screw(right?)...as of now it is about 1 full turn out...this morning when I tried to start the car it was a lot more responsive and only died on me once...if I'm head 'n the right direction then let me know Mark...is there a starting position setting for this screw or is every car different?...what else should I be looking at or what would be the next thing to check?

Thanks for the help Mark