Meaning of wiring diagram symbols , I need help.

[Texsardo]

I was a Medic for 20 years. I know where major vessels in body are located.
But, I have no knowledge of how to read wiring diagrams. I understand the color codes but when tracing them
I don't know what they connect to unless it is titled, like hazard switch, lighter, etc. But no idea what the little
Circle that has 2 lines meeting at an angle, then leads off to something that look like pacman eating wires.
Any web site or thread that shows explanation would help. I tried looking through Google and did not find anything.
I have the "Artique" or similar diagrams from the forum threads for 1978 Spider.
Texsardo

[ORFORD2004]

If you see a c under' it's a connector

[4uall]

this might help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7YxW6bc_gk8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EgwR9sYN5f0

[azruss]

those are light bulbs

[Texsardo]

Thanks 4uall, I had already found those utube features. That is why I stated I knew what colors mean and where they go to on diagram. Also the grounding feature but that is the first thing I learned from the forum, ground baby ground.
So I am back to original question: what do the symbols mean, numbers mean. I know the numbers on the relay correspond to the spade connections because I took one down to see if numbered were actually there..
A line going into something has a u shape in that something and then a line going out of the open end of the u. Some have 2 wires coming in and one going out. I assume that means it shows a terminal, connection, ?? Wit 2 wires connecting to one.
Remember, if I had all the original connectors and simply had to push them together, then following colored wire path I could do this. But of course this is not that case. PO connected all colors of rainbow to different items. I am trying to figure out what each item is, find it in the car, see if original wire enters and what color exits and where that wire goes.
PO just removed the back up switch and replaced with bolt. No wires left dangling, nothing. Somewhere in that Spiderman behind the console is a light/blue and white and white wire that hooks up to the switch. So what do I do, take 2 long number wires and tap into every white and light blue/white wire until I find combination that works. Wish there was an easier way.
Texsardo

[azruss]

I'm looking at Brad's 80-82 FI schematic. The U-shaped "pacman" symbols are spade connectors. Brad was so thorough he named the connector and showed you male/female. If your 79 has the round hazard switch, you may want to start there rather than just start searching for wires that may or may not be factory color. Start from the reverse switch on the schematic and trace back to an identifiable contact point, like the hazard switch and see if you have the color there.

[wizard124]

In order for the forum to be more helpful, we need more information. Tell us the circuit or switch you are trying to trace or fix. We don't know what you are working with. Has most of the wiring been messed with or just some? Is the fuse block stock? Are the ignition wires spec per the wiring diagrams?

Can you use a multi-meter? This is essential IMO for tracing the circuits and wires. For instance, suppose all the wires were red ones. The most efficient way of finding the 2 ends (more if they are spliced) is to use the 2 probes and read for zero resistance. Or, probe for voltage in a wire that the schematic says should be hot at all times or switched through the ignition, etc.

I looked at my copy of the Artigue wiring diagram to better understand your questions. You have stated you can identify the ground symbol; know the wiring color codes. As mentioned earlier, "C20 "is an example of a connector block. These are white or red plastic press together pieces that have 4 or more wires connecting from both sides. When I identify one, I often will label it with a sharpie for future reference. These diagrams are well labeled in terms of the connector, component, wire colors, fuses,etc. The symbols inside a component are a bit confusing but can help in troubleshooting the inner workings of it or solve a puzzling situation. Wires that connect are shown inside a connector, have a double >>, or have a spade (male/female symbology), or have a blackened or open (if it looks loke "O", it means the wires connect with a bolt or screw) circle at their intersection. A switch is shown as a "T", an "open door", or wire ends that have a sharp point to it. A diode allows current to only flow in one direction and is shown as an arrowhead touching a line. A resistor is a sharp pointed squiggle (you will have a voltage drop across a resistor). A solenoid is shown as a coil with a line in the middle. If you look at the Artigue page that illustrates the Starter, Alternator circuits, take a look at just the Starter and Alternator. You will see the diode, resistors, connectors, and solenoid symbology.

Back to your situation, and not knowing what that is I would tackle it from big to small, answer these questions and write down the results. From battery to starter and alternator: Stock or Modified? Wire colors? Strange splices? Ignition switch: stock or modified. Fuse block: inspect each fuse end. Stock or modified? Wire colors? Hot at all times or switched thru ignition? This tracing will take you to the particular circuit/item in question.
From the cold side of the fuse, you should be able to check continuity to any item.
Hope this helps! I have corrected some minor PO modifications I discovered in the cigar lighter and radio circuits in my car.
Good luck

[Texsardo]

OK, wizard124, you have given me a path. I am looking at the Artique diagrams, page3. My primary goal is get the back up light working. Calls for white wire from "?connector". I can not find a connector like the diagram shows, but I think I see the white wire that disappears into one of the first big trunks and a white wire that goes to some kind of female plastic connector then a blue/white white wire jumps to another connector with 2 blue/white wire going back to another trunk line.
The second wire for the back up light shows a blue/white wire from hazard switch. The color wires going to the hazard switch has only 2 of the 6 wires as the correct color. I have a 1978 so my hazard switch is the rectangular type. By the way, I redid all the switch connections with new female spade ends and shrink tubing to add strength. All my lights other than back up work correctly. I do not have a courtesy light for the console, trunk light, fasten seat belt is missing although I have the dash light for it. The doors have the switches but no wiring.
So far I have not found a single connector or whatever that matches the color codes. Example, diagram calls for 2 white/black wires leading to hazard switch. . Mine are yellow and black. But as I said all lights that are available work. I even found the light for the the wiring harness to the heater control set up. Has 4 light cables ending in each corner. New bulb and it works.
Yes, I know, if most items work why mess with it. Because each item I have not working has no wires to it. Or I have a lot of connectors (each a white plastic female that accommodates either a single or double male connector.
If I have wires going no where, not hooked. And I have door switches, trunks light smashed little bulb holder), and I want to put in a courtesy light(if I can find one I can afford)), These items have no wires hooked up.

The PO had the engine compartment painted black with wiring harnesses and everything in it- -BLACK. I have been scrubbing wires to find the color.

I'm just hoping to fix bad work.

[RoyBatty]

To get you started,

[wizard124]

This from my 80, don't know if yours is similar You can clearly see the switch and pigtail. I don't think you can inspect the connector unless you are willing to remove the center console, shifter extension and tunnel cover plate.

I assume you have done the ez stuff. Clean grounds, wire brush bulb sockets, checked fuses and wire brushed the fuse holder ends.

I looked at the schematics. This is what I would do to trouble shoot the reverse lights issue further.

1) Get under the car and inspect the switch and wiring that is visible;

2) Check continuity to the hazard switch. Fuse A supplies voltage to the hazard switch. Remove the fuse. Take an Ohm meter and find the wire that runs from fuse A. Do this by taking one probe to the cold side of fuseholder A and the other probe to the wire ends behind the hazard switch. When you read zero ohms you have found it (take note of the color combo). If none of the wires read zero, you have narrowed your problem area. It is either a wire break or bad connector somewhere between the fuse and hazard switch.

3) Assuming you have continuity from A to the hazard switch: This wire should be doubled with the other wire running towards the reverse switch on the transmission. To check this circuit you need to probe the back of the hazard switch wire you just isolated and the white wire connection at the reverse light bulb socket. With the transmission in Reverse, there should be zero Ohms read. If you read 1, then either the switch is faulty, there is a bad connector or a break in the wire somewhere.

4) If you can get to the reverse switch connector, you can test the function directly. Zero ohms when in Reverse.

[Texsardo]

Again, thanks for the help. Wizard124, I'll try what you suggested. The PO had removed the B/U switch. I put in a new one I got from Autoricambi. So I know that switch is good. Nice looking transmission. Mine did not have the wiring harness to the B/U switch like yours. Wish I could buy that particular harness from some where. This would help a bunch. But I still have to find the right wires from under dash that powers and routes the signal. Right nowi am making a harness with spades that will run from switch on transmission through shifter plate to the wires topside, if I find them. And yes, everything has been removed from the inside except the dash and steering wheel. I am also putting down new insulation, padding and carpet. That is the only way my 6 foot frame would fit up under dash to remove and replace heater valve and core.
I think I will start posting all the work with before and after photos. Already changed all brake calipers, pads, rotors, inner/outer bearings, etc. I had to take out all carpet and original padding due to the heater Valve failure.
I wonder why Fiat put all those holes in the floor panels and then put rubber plugs in them. I think I have 3 each side. Plus they covered over the little "V" shape drain holes.
Sorry, rambling. I will continue to try to trace wires. Also those symbols match a few on my wiring diagram
Texsardo

[bradartigue]

PM me your email address, if you can receive a 7mb file I'll send you a FIAT electrical diagnostic manual that shows every symbol they used.

Also understand that FIAT wiring diagrams at the time are inconsistent, and you have an inconsistent year - 78/79 crossed over a few things. The diagrams are mostly correct...mostly.