Power but no starter on 80 spider

[80spiddy]

I now have more electrical issues. This car started before I removed some of the components (alt, lights, wiper motor, radiator fan, horns, counsel, fuel sending unit) so I could paint. Most of these are back on (not all). I also replaced the pink wire after the white connector to positive side of coil, which was burned from previous owner. Turn key and dash lights and headlights but no starter engagement (nothing). With key on, I thought I should have 12 volts at the coil positive side, but nothing. After checking a bit (no fuses out), now I have no dash lights either but headlights still come on. Whew! I hate electrical issues. Any thoughts. Thanks.

[AriK]

Disconnect that white connector and check inside if the terminals are burned or have related residue. Also gently press the rubber boot of wires to rule out bad contacts in your ignition switch. Your overheated pink wire may have echoed repercussions straight through the circuits of your ignition switch.
If massaging those wires creates a temporary contact you have ruled out your problem.

[80spiddy]

I actually had that white connector disconnected to help me cut and solder the new wire replacing the pink one . Everything looked good inside. No residue, no burn. That pink wire was melting to the junction of the two pinks and stopped there. Before I dissected it, all circuts worked fine. No harm from what it was doing when it was hot. But, it needed replacing due to bare wire showing.

[spider2081]

you should have a "test light or a meter to assist you trouble shoot these problems. The red wire on the back of the ignition switch goes to the starter solenoid. It passes through the white connector where a red/black wire joins it. Check there for power when key is in the start position. If you have power there check for power at the red wire on the starter solenoid with the key in the start position. There is a single bullet connector near the drivers side engine mount that this red wire passes through. It is a common cause of your problem.

[80spiddy]

THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!! I have no power at the red wire on ignition switch. The end of black/red wire with bullet end is plugged into a shorter red wire with a female open connector. For the life of me, I knew this went to something, but couldn't figure out where it came from. I never purposely took it off. I found it once I got the alternator off. I checked it for power and it was dead, so I didn't worry about it. Now I know it is important. I just don't know where it plugs on. Help!

[spider2081]

Are you saying you have no power at the red wire on the ignition switch when the ignition switch is in the start position??
The red wire is power out of the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. So if you have not power out of the ignition switch you need to ch eck for power into the switch. Power into the ignition switch is a brown wire. This brown wire originates at the starter solenoid on the same terminal as the battery cable.
The single bullet connectors are in the area of the alternator wires and the driver side engine mount. There are 2 single wire connections in that area one is the red wire (both red wire connect together) and one is the brown wire (both brown wires connect together).

[So Cal Mark]

power to the ignition comes from the terminal on the alternator, sounds like you don't have all of the wires connected properly

[80spiddy]

I checked the red wire at the ignition switch (no power). The brown there has power. At this point I'm sure the red wire I have that is disconnected has a connection with a red/black striped wire to it. I do have power to the alternator. Is it possible this loose open spade terminal connection belongs on the alternator? Does this send power back to the ignition switch also then?

[spider2081]

My diagram for the 1980 Spider shows power for the ignition switch originating from 2 sources. Power from the alternator stud goes to the "hot all the time" side of fuse 10. Fuse 10 is jumped to fuse 9 and from there the black wire continues to the ignition switch terminal 30/1. This supplies power for the "start and run" output terminal of the ignition switch, terminal 15/54. The brown wire on ignition switch terminal 30 originates at the starter solenoid on the same post as the battery cable. When the ignition switch is in the "start" position terminal 30 connects to terminal 50. The red wire on 30 is the engage wire for the starter solenoid. The red/black wire in the connector behind the ignition switch supplies voltage to the dual relay in the "start" position.





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[80spiddy]

Thanks for the schematic. I looked at my alternator for the receptacle this red wire plugs into to no avail. It's tough o see the back of it from on top and underneath didn't help or reveal much either. Where is the location this plugs into? If I had it off (I did once, but would like to refrain from that if possible), it would be easy. I see a black wire with a plug in on a terminal, but can't see a second anywhere within eyesight. Thanks for helping me work through this.

[spider2081]

There should be 2 wires with ring terminals on the alternators out put post. Both are black one is pretty thinck and connects to the starter solenoid with the battery cable. The other black wire is smaller and goes to the fuse panel.

The radio filter usually mounts to the back of the alternator and it has a a short black wire that connects to a push terminal with a + symbol close to it.
The D+ terminal of the alternator is excited from the red battery warning light in the tachometer. This is a black wire with violet trace
Unless someone has messed with your car there is no red wire connected to the alternator.

[80spiddy]

I do have two ring terminals on alt and have power at the alt.


I guess I was a bit confused with this statement. Because I have a red wire with a female connector going to nothing on the driver side I found after pulling the alternator. It goes to a bullet connector which is attached to a red wire with black stripe

The red wire on the back of the ignition switch goes to the starter solenoid. It passes through the white connector where a red/black wire joins it. Check there for power when key is in the start position. If you have power there check for power at the red wire on the starter solenoid with the key in the start position. There is a single bullet connector near the drivers side engine mount that this red wire passes through. It is a common cause of your problem.

[spider2081]

My print shows a bullet connection with the red wire from the white connector C31 (right behind ignition switch) . The wire can have a red/black wire with it at one side of the bullet connector but that would be for a carburetor. This is the side that comes from the ignition switch C31. The other side has just a red wire going to the starter solenoid. so on one side the bullet connector has a red and a red/black wire and it mates to just a red wire. With the key in the "start position you should have power at this bullet connector.

I was thinking your car was fuel injected.

[80spiddy]

GOT IT !!

It was the red wire off the solenoid. My buddy who is a mechanic came by after work. He had me turn the key to start, while he held my test light in the red wire connector which then lit with power. We then knew it had to go to solenoid. We then looked and found the protruding terminal to connect to. Apparently this wire was tangled around the alt wires when I pulled it and I didn't realize it came off or where it came from. I'm use to Chevys where they are held tight with a stud and nut. Thanks for everyone's help. Oh, I finally got it fired up tonight too! woohoo!!

[spider2081]

Great news is always good to share. Have fun with your ride.