My 76 spider has just recently started to stall after running fine for 2 to 5 minutes and because it was acting like it was fuel starved, I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. It started easier and ran fine afterward for the 5 minutes, but the problem wasn't fixed, i.e. it still stalls out. I read on this board that the ignition switch can be the potential problem so I pulled it out to clean it as it didn't seem like a difficult job.
Now for the new problem. When I went to pull the ignition switch out, I accidentally touched the hot wire coming to the switch against the side of the switch which created a spark and now nothing will work. No lights, no start, no radio, nothing. Its like I blew a fuse, but I can't see anything talking about a fuse related to the ignition switch and all the fuses in the box are fine. I ended up taking the switch apart and cleaning it per the mirafiori.com instructions and everything went smoothly, but I just reinstalled the switch and still nothing, no matter where the key is in the ignition. The hot wire to the ignition is still hot (the brown wire). I seem to be going backwards and creating more problems instead of fixing the original one.
Anyone have an idea of what I'm missing or what I did? I really appreciate any advice. I'm at my wits end.
Dead Ignition Switch and Spider!!
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- Patron 2024
- Posts: 3015
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 11:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1981 Spider 2000
- Location: Wallingford,CT
Re: Dead Ignition Switch and Spider!!
Safety including personal safety requires disconnecting the battery before removing electrical components from a car. This very disregard has generated a number of posts in recent months. We all need to think Safety First.
You should have voltage feeding the ignition switch on 2 terminals of the ignition switch. You stated you have voltage on the thick brown wire on terminal 30. Do you also have voltage all the time on the thick black wire on terminal 30/1? Here is a link to the wire diagram for voltage feeding the ignition switch.
http://www.globallistics.com/spidersweb ... emes/2.jpg
It doesn't show a fuse in either wire that I see.
Hot all the time voltage should be present on the battery terminal of the starter. This is also where the brown wire to the ignition switch terminal 30 is connected. Also on this terminal is the wire that connects the alternator output to the cars electrical system. This wire then makes the alternator output post hot all the time even when the engine is not running. The black wire for the ignition switch terminal 30/1 connects to the alternator output post so it is hot all the time.
If I remember right there is a small white connector on the drivers side fender well with a couple wires in it that can easily be separated. One of the wires feeds the ignition switch. On later cars the connector was replaced with bullet connectors.
Hope this helps
You should have voltage feeding the ignition switch on 2 terminals of the ignition switch. You stated you have voltage on the thick brown wire on terminal 30. Do you also have voltage all the time on the thick black wire on terminal 30/1? Here is a link to the wire diagram for voltage feeding the ignition switch.
http://www.globallistics.com/spidersweb ... emes/2.jpg
It doesn't show a fuse in either wire that I see.
Hot all the time voltage should be present on the battery terminal of the starter. This is also where the brown wire to the ignition switch terminal 30 is connected. Also on this terminal is the wire that connects the alternator output to the cars electrical system. This wire then makes the alternator output post hot all the time even when the engine is not running. The black wire for the ignition switch terminal 30/1 connects to the alternator output post so it is hot all the time.
If I remember right there is a small white connector on the drivers side fender well with a couple wires in it that can easily be separated. One of the wires feeds the ignition switch. On later cars the connector was replaced with bullet connectors.
Hope this helps
Re: Dead Ignition Switch and Spider!!
Spider2081, you're right and my lack of focus in not removing the battery cable at the forefront is what put me in this mess. I did, however get the ignition to respond after spending time going through every ground in the car and cleaning all contacts.
I've now got my fingers crossed that the newly cleaned ignition switch will fix the original stalling problem. Thanks for the help.
I've now got my fingers crossed that the newly cleaned ignition switch will fix the original stalling problem. Thanks for the help.