I found your board while constantly searching for help with the brakes on my car!
We used to have to bleed the brakes every other time we wanted to drive it. It was a pain, but we didn't drive it often enough that it was a major headache. Eventually, we lost all brake power. We recently installed a new master cylinder and booster purchased from Vick's Auto Sports. We bled the master cylinder... bled brakes, and NOTHING... still no brakes. I'm needing help in the DFW area to get this baby back on the road. I would love any suggestions you may have of shops or Fiat experts in this area that understand these cars. We have already talked to Vick's numerous times to see if possibly we received defective parts. We have done everything they asked us to, and still no brakes.
I'm done pulling my hair out, and may slap a for sale sign on it if I can't find someone local to help me.
1980 Fiat Spider owner, desperate for help in Dallas area
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- Posts: 752
- Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 9:27 pm
- Your car is a: 1980 124 spider FI
- Location: Sheridan, WY exSan Rafael, CA
Re: 1980 Fiat Spider owner, desperate for help in Dallas area
Just a few questions to lead us in the right direction
You replaced the master. When these are bad, they often leak internally from the cylinder resulting in brake fluid running down the booster. Was this true in your case? Or, did you replace it assuming it was your problem?
When you say "Nothing", do you mean the pedal is still mushy and goes to the floor? Or, it is firm but the brakes still don't work?
If you are losing fluid from the reservoir, then you need to find the leak. Check for leaks at each wheel, the rear compensator (located above the right rear wheel/axle), and the metal lines in the engine compartment and along the transmission tunnel.
Could be the brake calipers are frozen? Simple to replace.
Bleeding brakes. The rear axle needs to have weight on it. Otherwise, the rear brake compensator shuts off the supply to the rear calipers. I like to use a length of clear vinyl tubing pressed over the bleed screw and running down to a catch jar. As your helper presses the pedal, open the bleed screw. When the pedal is returned, close the screw. keep repeating this until no more bubbles are observed in the tubing. Start with passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, to driver front. Be sure to keep the reservoir from emptying during this as you don't want to suck air back into the master cylinder. You may need up to a quart of DOT3. You want to ensure you purge all the air in the lines and get rid of the old dis-colored brake fluid. When you only see new, clear fluid and no bubbles; you know you are good
You replaced the master. When these are bad, they often leak internally from the cylinder resulting in brake fluid running down the booster. Was this true in your case? Or, did you replace it assuming it was your problem?
When you say "Nothing", do you mean the pedal is still mushy and goes to the floor? Or, it is firm but the brakes still don't work?
If you are losing fluid from the reservoir, then you need to find the leak. Check for leaks at each wheel, the rear compensator (located above the right rear wheel/axle), and the metal lines in the engine compartment and along the transmission tunnel.
Could be the brake calipers are frozen? Simple to replace.
Bleeding brakes. The rear axle needs to have weight on it. Otherwise, the rear brake compensator shuts off the supply to the rear calipers. I like to use a length of clear vinyl tubing pressed over the bleed screw and running down to a catch jar. As your helper presses the pedal, open the bleed screw. When the pedal is returned, close the screw. keep repeating this until no more bubbles are observed in the tubing. Start with passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, to driver front. Be sure to keep the reservoir from emptying during this as you don't want to suck air back into the master cylinder. You may need up to a quart of DOT3. You want to ensure you purge all the air in the lines and get rid of the old dis-colored brake fluid. When you only see new, clear fluid and no bubbles; you know you are good
'80 spider FI, SnugTop hardtop
http://s940.photobucket.com/user/a7ewiz ... t=3&page=1
http://s940.photobucket.com/user/a7ewiz ... t=3&page=1
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- Posts: 640
- Joined: Fri Apr 09, 2010 3:02 pm
- Your car is a: SOLD
Re: 1980 Fiat Spider owner, desperate for help in Dallas area
+1 on wizard124's questions/suggestions. If you still find that you need some help locally, you may want to try contacting the guys at Auto Ricambi (Ramzi and Csaba) - they are in Colleyville, TX.
http://www.autoricambi.us/
phone: 682-233-3428
email: info@autoricambi.us
They are on this forum quite often. Hopefully they will chime in on this thread. I have found Ramzi and Csaba to be extremely knowledgeable and helpful in troubleshooting issues and coming up with solutions.
http://www.autoricambi.us/
phone: 682-233-3428
email: info@autoricambi.us
They are on this forum quite often. Hopefully they will chime in on this thread. I have found Ramzi and Csaba to be extremely knowledgeable and helpful in troubleshooting issues and coming up with solutions.
SunnySideUp
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- Posts: 3996
- Joined: Sat May 23, 2009 1:23 pm
- Your car is a: 1971 124 Spider
- Location: Texas, USA
Re: 1980 Fiat Spider owner, desperate for help in Dallas area
AggieSum,
I have replied to your email.
bye,
I have replied to your email.
bye,
Csaba
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town
'71 124 Spider, much modified
'17 124 Abarth, silver
http://italiancarclub.com/csaba/
Co-owner of the best dang Fiat parts place in town