where to start on wiring fix

[timspider]

first, you guys are great- thanks for that.
making headway- got the fuse holders cleaned up and properly configured with correct fuses- huzzah!

came across an inline fuse in a light blue holder that appears to be broken- doesn't look fried, but the little copper wrap wire is broken and partly unraveled.
Have not been able to figure out the amperage that goes in this inline thingy.
Anybody know what this is and what I need in there as a new inline fuse?
thanks again

[timspider]

update: she started today, after not starting an hour earlier.
I was in the car, fiddling with the key and lights to check the new wiring on the backlights, and I heard the electric fuel pump come on in the trunk. so i turned the key and she started smoothly and immediately. lights now working, signals working, will try a test drive later, if she feels like it.
So far, all I've done is replace all fuses after sanding and cleaning each fuse holder, taped off 2 loose wires in the dash, and replaced all the contacts for the tail lights as well as made new grounding wire assemblies for each side of the tail lights. All of those contacts looked brittle and questionable, the grounding wires were disintegrating, so lots of opportunities to ground out back there just got eliminated.

[TX82FIAT]

Sounds like your electrical system was working through a lot of resistance at the grounds. don't forget your grounding pods on the inner fenders of the car as well as the negative cable battery. There is also a large grounding strap from the engine to the frame located near the transmission. If other grounds were in bad shape there is a high probability the engine ground is in bad shape. This ground helps all sorts of things work better like the starter.

[timspider]

replaced the battery ground cable and got that cleanly connected. replaced the grounding cable at the tranny when i had that rebuilt so that's new. my 78 does not have the consolidated grounds in the engine bay, so hunting around for some more grounds there.
it runs now, but not right. idles nicely enough. seems ok if i start our slow. If I try to goose it, after the car is warmed up, it revs kind of ok, the tach does funny jumpy stuff, and after a few seconds, the dash lights start their flickering thing and she gets stumbly.
new today is the lights work- even the parking lights circuit when key is off. the nasty buzzer is back, and she starts easily. It's just the "getting somewhere" part that she doesn't seem up to yet.
making big headway- due for another break this weekend.
maybe drive soon- dunno

[4uall]

Tim, I am quite certain that our cars are one in the same with these issues at the exact same time We probably have each others wiring and parts Glad to hear it is on the mend

http://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=30824

[DieselSpider]

replaced the battery ground cable and got that cleanly connected. replaced the grounding cable at the tranny when i had that rebuilt so that's new. my 78 does not have the consolidated grounds in the engine bay, so hunting around for some more grounds there.
it runs now, but not right. idles nicely enough. seems ok if i start our slow. If I try to goose it, after the car is warmed up, it revs kind of ok, the tach does funny jumpy stuff, and after a few seconds, the dash lights start their flickering thing and she gets stumbly.
new today is the lights work- even the parking lights circuit when key is off. the nasty buzzer is back, and she starts easily. It's just the "getting somewhere" part that she doesn't seem up to yet.
making big headway- due for another break this weekend.
maybe drive soon- dunno

Almost sounds like you still have a loose or dangling open connection that gets tossed around if you accelerate too fast. I have one that I have not tracked down yet that hits only when I accelerate too hard during a left turn. I know its not carb bowl/float related since my 78 has a mechanical diesel injector pump.

[timspider]

Yes, it feels like that.
now all wiring and connections in trunk are upgraded.
lights seem brighter, signals working, everything is good at idle.
so I have a dirt road for short test runs. The main road requires the vehicle to accelarate to 55 quickly and stay, which we can't do yet, so the dirty road test.

smoothly launches in first now. Second feels ok too, slides into third nicely but any acceleration from there starts the intermitent power issues. Dash lights start to flicker, car bucks, engine sputters.
Getting off the accelerator seems to help. Driving backwards seemed to help, although I did get it to flicker once I was going over about 25.
it almost feels load related. When there is a load to pull at a slightly higher rpm, she sputters. Up any incline is not good.

I have an spare coil that I might swap in just to see what happens.
Any thoughts are appreciated.

[AriK]

Did you have a look at the pickup coil inside the distributor cap? Perhaps a moving spring grounding out on a frayed wire.

[DieselSpider]

Is there possibly one of the wires to the heating control getting pinched by the shift linkage. On the diesel a bouncing short to ground will cause the fuel valve on the injector pump to flutter which makes the engine falter.

[timspider]

checked under the cap today- I have a pertronix system in there after too many issues with the dual points.

When I initially installed it, the mounting plate seemed too close to a set screw and wouldn't seat. I got that straightened out this morning. Not sure it's related at all, but good to have it set up right.
Next observation is that the cap, which appears possibly to be original, shows no visible cracks but looks old and a little tired. A couple of the pickups inside the cap are partially grooved, with a slight sign of the metal dust created lining the cap.
I've got a new cap ordered because this seems like an excellent thing to have a spare of, even if it's not causing the current bumps.
Is it normal for those to be grooved?
aren't they supposed to convey spark without physical contact?
Does this mean the distributor is moving in a way that it shouldn't?
I read in one of these threads that different caps have slightly different fitment, which could cause this.
Also read about an identical looking cap that will allow the car to run, but is the wrong size.

[AriK]

Definetely change the cap. Do the wires at the base of the distributor look frayed or brittle. If they're as old as the cap i'd change them regardless.

[timspider]

new cap on the way. thank you arik
and for diesel, that's an excellent guess but my center console and radio console are not back in yet. everything is loose- I think I've got it cleaned and nothing grounding out but really not positive if there is an issue in there or not.
thank you

[DieselSpider]

If its hitting with the cap seated properly and the rotor sitting nice and solid then chances are that the top bearing in the distributor is worn and needs replacing or the shaft may be bent.

[timspider]

Update today. No power to anything except the starter. No parking lights, nothing.
last night she started pretty easily, rumbled roughly for about 10 seconds, then something happened like a relay opening or something and she smoothed out and increased rpm a little.
As I type this, I'm thinking this traces to the distributor as that is the only thing I made an adjustment on last night.
still chipping away. Baby steps. Hopefully in the right direction. Dunno.

[timspider]

while cleaning all the crud out of the distributor, I did a quick visual check of the rotor again and this time the contact part basically disintegrated and fell out. Seems like it was broken but being held in there by the housing, which seems to explain intermittent connectivity.
got one coming tomorrow from O'reilly for just under $5 with a lifetime guarantee.
new cap coming from a different supplier Monday
I need to drive this car- getting closer