where to start on wiring fix

[AriK]

Good that you found the weak link. I should have mentioned to you "cap AND rotor". Always change them as a set.

[timspider]

the weird thing is that this is one of the very few fundamentals that I thought I knew. replace cap and rotor= no brainer
So not sure how I managed to replace ALL this stuff over the last 2 years without ever doing this simple maintenance item:

carb/air cleaner, starter, coil, wires/plugs, alternator,heater core, radiator, whole exhaust, clutch, rebuilt tranny,new carpet, new top, brakes, trunk lock, hood latch, fuel pump, headlight wiring, compensator parts, shocks, badges, etc.

[DieselSpider]

It's called being human.

Look on the bright side, at least it wasn't something more critical like forgetting to stake on the front spindle nuts.

[timspider]

apparently still human.
finally got the new cap and rotor on and got the dash back together- hooked up the battery and the flashers started working. The switch was on so it's all good.
turned the key to normal sounding electrical fuel pump- great sign
starter turned fast and furious but no start- no rumbles at all- nothing
turned the key off and back on and then no electrical fuel pump- no lights - starter still cranks a mile a minute- but nothing else
now with the key on or off neither the parking lights or flashers work- everything is dead but the starter
I think I need an electrical expert.

[timspider]

UPDATE
SHE'S BACK
30 mile test drive without a single stumble or backfire, half on winding country roads at 35-55, half at 60-70 on local highway.
The back brakes smelled a little at the mid point, which I knew about since I replaced them last winter and both sides were kinda tight even after being screwed in. One wheel was a little hotter than the other. By the time I got home and after some good braking, neither wheel was very hot, so maybe the pads settled in.

The wicked purr is back.

Thank you to the dozens of people who have hung with me in the last year as I floated endless cries for help.
Seriously.
Thank you. No way for me to deal with this car without you ladies and gents.
I'm a little numb.
I can go get groceries if I want.
In style.
Thank you

[aj81spider]

Yay!!!! Glad to see you've got her back on the road. Now the fun part of ownership (driving!) starts!

[DieselSpider]

Sorry I missed the fix that did the trick.

[timspider]

In my excitement I didn't ost the last pieces of the puzzle.
The wiring, generally, had multiple spots where brittle wires were grounding out- all the trunk wires- replaced those first and electricity started flowing again
then the switch, which it turned out not to be, was cleaned at each contact
then 2 grounds I found in engine bay were upgraded.
then checked the advance, which was a mess of crud and corrosion, cleaned that up
then checked the ignitor, which was not seated properly- fixed that
re-checked main grounding strap and made double sure that was tight on clean metal
replaced the negative cable at the battery
cleaned up 3 loose ends in the dash
the last 3 things were to replace a worn ring connector on the black wire at the alternator, which was badly frayed, re situate the ignitor module. and tinker with the timing- I needed those last 3 things to make the huge difference and I think the advance was really messing with me. Acceleration is smooth and strong now and sounds just beautiful.

[RoyBatty]

OUT-FREAKIN-STANDING!!
Oh, and, well done sir.

[DieselSpider]

Most would be excited to see light finally and have it not end up another mirage so thats understandable to forget to post the details.

Preserverance paid off!

[timspider]

One last thing that was a big detail in this for me and it involved the use of dialectical grease.
I first got this stuff when replacing bulbs- my only understanding at that time was that it stopped corrosion.
Armed with this new super tool, I coated all the connectors at the new alternator BEFORE putting them on. I even coated the terminal post.
I didn't realize this stuff was non conductive, intended only to coat the outside of a connection.
So I took those ring connectors off and cleaned the whole area with electrical cleaner spray and put everything back together tight. No more flickering lights.
duh.
It was a discussion on here with Diesel about the function and make up of dialectric grease that got me thinking about that. If not for that, this would have been one of those phantom issues that I would have blamed on the old car.
These cars work great when you get the little details (and all the big ones) worked out.
Thanks to Diesel and everybody.

[DieselSpider]

The dielectric grease is non-conductive however it is not an insulator either. It is non-conductive so you can safely put it inside electrical connections without creating short circuits.


Protects electrical connections and wiring from salt, dirt and corrosion. Extends the life of bulb sockets. Prevents voltage leakage around any electrical connection. Also prevents spark plugs from fusing to boots. Required for modern high energy ignition systems. - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... 2H0UH.dpuf

DIRECTIONS FOR USE from Permatex:
For spark plug boots
1. Make sure ignition system is off.
2. Remove heavy grease, dirt or oil with a clean rag.
3. Coat inside of spark plug boot with a thin layer of grease.
4. Coat ceramic part of plug.
5. Snap boot onto plug. Make sure fit is tight.

For connectors and battery terminals
1. Make sure the ignition system is off.
2. Clean surfaces with appropriate cleaner such as Permatex Brake and Parts Cleaner or Battery Cleaner.
3. Coat both parts with grease.
4. Reassemble.

[timspider]

now I'm confused- when I cleaned up all those coated ring connectors and the threaded stud, my flickering light issue went away. I should mention that I have a headlight kit so both high and low beams are powered directly off the alternator. Those circuits flickered a bit in the rain a couple weeks ago, but not since cleaning that area up and getting it re connected.
now chipping away at a new fuel starvation issue that I hope is related to the screen that goes before the pump, and those back brakes- unable to get them work properly as of yet.

[DieselSpider]

Eventually the dielectric grease will need to be cleaned out however the sockets should not be all rotted out and just need a cleaning along with a new coat of grease. Its not a permanent application and does need to be renewed from time to time.