Different Approach to the Ground Pods

[124JOE]

i just want to say theres many different styles of solder,plumming solder isnt used for ele connetions
with rc cars batts put out high amps and connections get hot "DONT ASK ME HOW I KNOW"(ok rc boats)

the BEST solder for ele is 63/37 from radio shack or where ever you can get it.

[majicwrench]

I'm a fan of quality crimp connectors and quality shrink fit tubing over them.
Keith

[RRoller123]

I just finished converting the passenger side in the same way, but I crimped and DIDN'T solder the connectors this time. A small experiment, gather some empirical data, see if one approach fails before the other, eh? Now I should be either loved or loathed by all the members of the forum. I shoodah been a politician! <{:^)



Pete

[RRoller123]

Just following up on this approach: No problems so far, except that I need to occassionally tighten the screws. I think it is due to the fact that these blocks were not originally designed for automotive vibration environment. Will pull the screws and "locktight" them next time.

[RRoller123]

This is my approximate 4 year follow up report on the results:

The question posed years ago (April 2012) was: Is there a significant reliability difference between soldered crimp type electrical connections on Fast-On type connectors, versus simply just crimping them without added solder?

I did one side (driver's) of my grounding system with soldered plus crimp connectors, and the other side (passenger's) with just the crimp.

4 year result:

A complete Snooze Fest. Absolutely no difference, no failures, nothing. Both systems completely reliable. I do a yearly tightening of the connection screws but never find any of them significantly loose. No voltage differences, nothing.

Pete

[4uall]

[RRoller123]

LOL, good one!!

[DieselSpider]

This is my approximate 4 year follow up report on the results:

The question posed years ago (April 2012) was: Is there a significant reliability difference between soldered crimp type electrical connections on Fast-On type connectors, versus simply just crimping them without added solder?

I did one side (driver's) of my grounding system with soldered plus crimp connectors, and the other side (passenger's) with just the crimp.

4 year result:

A complete Snooze Fest. Absolutely no difference, no failures, nothing. Both systems completely reliable. I do a yearly tightening of the connection screws but never find any of them significantly loose. No voltage differences, nothing.

Pete

Interesting since easily 75% of the electrical problems on mine were from previous owners failed crimp connections. Did you shrink wrap the crimps or leave them open? Was a pin/stake style crimper used or a more traditional consumer model?

Here is an entry level example of the style of crimper I have found to make the most reliable long term connections:

[RRoller123]

All of the Fast-On type connectors that I use are insulated, I have never use un-insulated types, so I can't really comment on that difference. So there is a dual crimp, one at the electrical connection, and a mechanical one at the insulation of the Fast-On to the wire insulation.

I also gave up an the manual crimpers long ago. It is a good idea to get a good set of ratcheting crimpers, which make both connections simultaneously. And the most important part of the ratcheting system is that the crimp force is adjustable via a stop mechanism. I make sure that a small amount (maybe 0.015"?) of wire protrudes out the front of the electrical crimp before crimping it.

And most importantly, since both the mechanical and electrical crimps are made simultaneously with the ratcheting crimp tool, a simple ~10lb pull test is sufficient to be sure the connection is good!

Pete

[DieselSpider]

Ok, so we are talking a specialized ratcheting crimper compared to soldering not just the garden variety crimper most have in their tool boxes.

You know many would be using a $2 crimping tool and thinking they were getting as good as soldering.

Is the ratcheting model you are using currently available at a reasonable price?

Personally I use uninsulated or pull off the insulated sleeves when I can't get the uninsulated ones when I need them since I use Marine Shrink Wrap on just about every connection now.

I do sometimes get old timey and still use the white clamshell covers over a male and female spade connection such as is used on the OEM Lighter in the center console however they have been getting hard to find so I save them whenever I come across them.

[RRoller123]

That's a good point that most of us are probably using a non regulated hand crimper! It certainly makes a difference and I am glad that you brought it up. The non-ratcheting crimpers are far more variable in the quality of the result. I got mine years ago at Home Depot, but it is very similar to this one offered online at HF:

http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting ... 97420.html

For those reading this who may be unfamiliar with the ratcheting type tool, it can only ratchet forward through the crimp cycle until the die bottoms out, so you can't do a weak or a partial crimp. The tool "ratchets" as you squeeze it (you hear it clicking) until the cycle is complete. Then it releases. The most important feature of any ratcheting crimper is that the die be adjustable for depth of crimp. (They likely all have this?) Takes a little fiddling and the waste of a few connectors and a little bit of wire to dial it in, but it is very easy to set it correctly. Takes a few pull tests and visual checks to make sure that the crimp is full and proper. The die is easily set with a set screw.

To be clear, I solder all wire-wire butt connections, and shrink wrap them. (Never heard of Marine shrink wrap? Is that a separate grade?) Unless, like with that damned C31 connector, it would mean soldering on my back under the dash with little room to work, poor light and lots of nearby things to damage. My observations are only referring to the Fast-On types that go to terminal blocks, relay blades, ground studs etc. Wire-wire I definitely solder and shrink. The ground pods in the original post and pictures from 2012 are nearly all ring terminals on a screw-mount terminal block. That being said, I have no reason to believe that the result would be any different in other similar applications.

I guess that the same sort of discussion could be had about wire strippers. The close-and-hold type are superior and not too expensive either.

Here is the Home Depot offering below. The basic idea is that the jaws are wide, and one side closes on the insulation earlier in the cycle and holds it, yielding much better results.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Stripm ... /202819657

Like they say, use good tools. Usually (but not always) worth a few extra dollars. Was over at Grandpa's the other day and used the back of his flashlight to set a few picture hooks. No need to run out and buy a nice hammer.

Pete

[DieselSpider]

Marine shrink wrap has an adhesive/sealant in it that fuses to the wire making for a waterproof joint and it won't slide as easily as the standard grade if you are making an open cover for a set of male and female spade connectors that you will need to disconnect on occasion. That way I just purchase one type of bare spades and then use the shrink wrap to set things up for use on ground lugs, relays, easily opened insulated splices, etc.

Regular:
http://www.harborfreight.com/127-piece- ... 67524.html

Marine Grade:
http://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-m ... 67598.html

[RRoller123]

Excellent! I had not heard of that before!

[DieselSpider]

Excellent! I had not heard of that before!

Great also when working on lawn sprinkler control wiring, submerged pumps and buried wires for low voltage outdoor lighting.