Slow starting….sometimes

[HersheyPAGreg]

I’ve been having this problem for a while now and I want to solve it when the warm weather returns soon. Sometimes the car (80 Spider FI) starts right away, other times it turns over very slowly as you can hear from this YouTube video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lS9o3K ... e=youtu.be

It always starts even though it takes a while sometimes. There’s no real pattern to when this occurs. Any thoughts what the problem could be? Where should I start checking? Thanks in advance.
Greg

[124JOE]

I would start at the battery
top it off with a full charge
then inspect all the grounds,as these are a common fix

[AriK]

Sounds like way off ignition timing...

[wizard124]

I would start at the battery
top it off with a full charge
then inspect all the grounds,as these are a common fix

Yes to above. Clean and tighten the connections at the battery and the POS leads to the starter.
Once you have the starter cranking properly, then work on the cold starting problem.

From your video, the engine should fire more quickly and idle higher (when it gets turning over faster). Take a look at the Cold Start Valve located at the front of the intake manifold. this thing:


Check/clean the connections (plug with 2 wires). If this seems OK, then remove the Cold Start Valve (leave the fuel line attached, 2 allen head screws and pull straight out. There is a rubber o-ring that holds it snug). Hold this in a jar while your helper tries to start your cold engine. It should spit fuel.

No fuel? Then there are 4 possibilities:
1) Bad CSV;
2) Bad thermo time switch or bad connector;
3) Broken wires;
4) No output from ECU.

Again disconnect the plug from the CSV. (engine must be cold!). Hold the prongs from a multi-meter to the 2 contacts in the plug. Select a VDC scale. Helper cranks the engine, while you look for voltage across the prongs.

Have voltage?, then replace the CSV.
No voltage? , then it is probably the thermo time switch or its plug.

[HersheyPAGreg]

I would start at the battery
top it off with a full charge
then inspect all the grounds,as these are a common fix

Thanks Joe, I'll start with the battery and then the positive leads to the starter as wizard 124 suggested. When you say inspect all the grounds, which ones do I need to check?

Thanks.

[HersheyPAGreg]

I would start at the battery
top it off with a full charge
then inspect all the grounds,as these are a common fix

Yes to above. Clean and tighten the connections at the battery and the POS leads to the starter.
Once you have the starter cranking properly, then work on the cold starting problem.

From your video, the engine should fire more quickly and idle higher (when it gets turning over faster). Take a look at the Cold Start Valve located at the front of the intake manifold. this thing:


Check/clean the connections (plug with 2 wires). If this seems OK, then remove the Cold Start Valve (leave the fuel line attached, 2 allen head screws and pull straight out. There is a rubber o-ring that holds it snug). Hold this in a jar while your helper tries to start your cold engine. It should spit fuel.

No fuel? Then there are 4 possibilities:
1) Bad CSV;
2) Bad thermo time switch or bad connector;
3) Broken wires;
4) No output from ECU.

Again disconnect the plug from the CSV. (engine must be cold!). Hold the prongs from a multi-meter to the 2 contacts in the plug. Select a VDC scale. Helper cranks the engine, while you look for voltage across the prongs.

Have voltage?, then replace the CSV.
No voltage? , then it is probably the thermo time switch or its plug.

Thanks for the reply. As you suggested I'll work on the slow cranking first and then move on to the cold starting problem. I'll do the tests as soon as it gets a little warmer here. If it turns out I need a new cold start valve (or one of the other parts you mention), would used parts be an ok option or is this something I should definitely buy new?

Thanks to everyone who has replied.

Greg

[124JOE]

the main ground at the battery.
if its good then maybe your starter is not tight to the block.

[spider2081]

Also check the main engine ground that connects the bell housing to the bottom of the drivers floor. It is located near the starter. Best seen from under the car.

[HersheyPAGreg]

Thanks guys

[Holshot]

I had similar cold starting problems recently and will throw in my .02... Another thing sometimes over looked is AAV. My car in the warmer months would start with no problem but I noticed that this past winter a cold start problem. I found this very helpful L-Jetronic troubleshooting guide which goes into detail on how to diagnose issues and how to go about repairing them. The AAV is very I portent to the initial startup to the car and could possibly be your problem as well so look over the guide on how to test the AAV and illuminate that as well.

Mine was extremely dirty and after following the procedure and adjusting it my car started up much better. Also, a word of note... Check all vacuum sources for cracks in lines or air leaks from the AFM to the throttle body. I had a crack in the large nipple that comes off the intake tube that the L-shaped metal hose that goes to the AAV. I just removed the entire intake hose and JB welded the nipple and its held up so far. This was another issue I had last fall with less then idea cold starts but helped out.

Here a link the the guide:

http://www.hiperformancestore.com/Ljetronic.htm

[HersheyPAGreg]

Update:

Shortly after posting this, the fuel pump died last spring and was replaced. I continued to have the slow starting problem until late November when the starter gave out. I had a new gear reduction starter put on back in December and it's been starting up right away ever since.

Thanks to all who replied, especially wizard 124 for all the advice offline.

Greg

[DieselSpider]

I had the same issue and ended up at first just replacing the starter solenoid which then started acting up about 6 months later and the root cause was ultimately the starter switch/wiring not able to provide the starter solenoid the full 10 to 15 amps it needed to engage the starter drive gear and make good contact to run the starter motor. After a while starting on low current the new solenoid failed along with the gear reduction starter. A 40 amp relay on a direct line to the battery finally resolved it 100%. Starts reliably now every day hot/cold, rain/shine and the starting load on the expensive ignition switch is reduced by about 15 amps. At risk now is a $6 relay taking the heavy starting load and no longer the ignition switch.