Just have brights but no regular headlight

[scubachris]

Little history, I installed a the upgraded light relay kit on my car and about 5 months later I lost the low beam headlights (still have highs and flash to pass). I ordered a new low/high column switch and that has not helped. How do I trace this problem out without spending to much more money.

Thanks,
Chris C

[124JOE]

hey chris it's your grounds
inner fender wells is the ground point
double check them

[scubachris]

hey chris it's your grounds
inner fender wells is the ground point
double check them

Awesome, now to find out which one is for low beams. Thanks!

Kidding I know which one is ground but I have no idea how to test it.

[spider2081]

I believe both hi and lo beam filaments in a headlight share the same ground. So if its good during hi beam operation its good for low beams. The ground does no get switched just the power is switched hi-lo. I would check for voltage at the lo beam fuses

[GeorgeT]

Have you checked the relay fuse (each relay should have it's own fuse).

[DieselSpider]

If the relays do not click when you turn on the low beams then you have a problem between the control circuits/fuses inside the car and the relays or potentially bad coils in the relays. If the relays do click then check for voltage coming out of the relays. If voltage is coming out then you have a problem between the relays and the headlights or potentially the low beam filaments in the headlamps have simply burned out. If voltage is going in but none is coming out of the relays even though they are switching then you have a failing relay.

No need to guess, just get a $2 test light or a $5 volt meter and start following the electricity.

[profcucchi]

Hello, Guys.

Similar problem. I have two relays installed (one for low, one for high).

The passenger side works with no problem and the lights are BRIGHT. Easily doubled the brightness.

The drivers side doesn't turn on at all.

Using a test light, I have power to the relays, but one wire, the drivers side wire that connects to the black connector, does not get power. I replaced the relay, and remade the connector. Still nothing. Actually, I get a little power. Like .9v, whereas the power wire gets 12.

I've remade the whole wire with tight connectors, shrink wrap. I'll check tomorrow.

If this doesn't work, I'm going back to the original wiring setup, which still works.

Otherwise, what could be the issue?

Thanks

[RRoller123]

Since some significant amount of voltage is getting through, you might want to check all the grounds for clean and tight.

[profcucchi]

Since some significant amount of voltage is getting through, you might want to check all the grounds for clean and tight.

I checked this morning and cleaned the ground to a silvery finish...still the same.

What I can't figure out is why the passenger side works like a charm and the driver's side doesn't. Fuses are good, connections are good, power is good, but the driver's side female connector to the original black switch isn't even powering. I removed the wire from the relay, and remade the whole thing; I even changed the relay.

Argh....

[profcucchi]

Since some significant amount of voltage is getting through, you might want to check all the grounds for clean and tight.

I checked this morning and cleaned the ground to a silvery finish...still the same.

Argh....

Okay, made some changes, and there's progress.

Passenger lights still work, and now so do the driver's side, however, they are on all the time, even when the car is off.

Power to the 30, high beams and low beams to the 87s, switch on 86 and ground to 85.

Any clue?

[AFRetired]

If you are using a 5 post Bosch type relay, don't hook things up to "both" 87s. The center 87 has power when the 86 is off and the side 87 has power when 86 is powered on. If you're hooking headlights up to both 87s, you are getting them powered on all the time.

[profcucchi]

If you are using a 5 post Bosch type relay, don't hook things up to "both" 87s. The center 87 has power when the 86 is off and the side 87 has power when 86 is powered on. If you're hooking headlights up to both 87s, you are getting them powered on all the time.

I've tried every hook up possible. 87 only, 87A only, etc. Double this, single that...

Still have the same issue of one headlight on all the time, with engine off, and the other light works correctly, with engine on.

Original wiring works, so I'm driving this weekend!

[124JOE]

sorry i wish i knew a bit more in that area

[aj81spider]

87A is the normally closed contact. Power will be routed to that contact whenever your control signal is off.

87 is the normally open contact. Power will be routed to that contact whenever your control signal is on.

Connecting 87 and 87A will mean the relay is bypassed and you are always going to have power flowing from 30 to your circuit.

[DieselSpider]

87A is the normally closed contact. Power will be routed to that contact whenever your control signal is off.

87 is the normally open contact. Power will be routed to that contact whenever your control signal is on.

Connecting 87 and 87A will mean the relay is bypassed and you are always going to have power flowing from 30 to your circuit.

30 should be connect to the fused power line directly from the battery and 87 is the line out to feed the headlamp. 85 should be connected to the old headlight power feed and 86 should go to the ground pod.

If you are using one relay to control both low beams then both have to be connected to 87. Remember 30 is for the fused constantly powered feed directly off the battery.

That way when you turn on the headlight switch power feeds in through 85 to energize the relays coil which is grounded by 86 so that fused power directly from the battery fed in at 30 feeds out to the headlight through 87.