Another carb. question

[apexwc]

My stock 32 ADFA is leaking pretty bad, I think from the accelerator pump. Is the diaphragm for that available separately or only in the kit? If I have to buy the whole kit then I might just replace it instead of rebuilding it. I see that the 34 ADF seems to be the replacement of choice but I was wondering about the 32/36 DGV or DGEV. What are the pros/cons of this? I don't mind converting to a manual choke, seems like one less thing to break. Also, what is the difference between the DGEV and the DFEV? I know they both have electric choke, which I still would prefer over the coolant controlled choke. Is it just the throttle position? If that's the case then I know the DFEV would be the choice. I have the stock 4-1 manifold and pipe now but I might change it in the future, at least to a 4-2-1 stock setup. Also plan on removing the EGR.

[rlux4]

If you haven't printed out Brad Artigue's "FIAT 124 Spider Engine Maintenance and Modification" I would suggest that you do.
You'll find it here: http://www.artigue.com/fiat.php
It has as section on carb options that many consider the definitive source. The whole manual is a good addition to your Fiat literature. He also has very good wiring diagrams at the site.
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

the accel pump diaphragms are available separate from an entire kit

[apexwc]

Thanks, I did find on at Bayless and ordered it today. I hope that will get me by for a little while. Would a badly leaking accelerator pump make it hard to start or is that an entirely separate issue? It used to only be hard to start when cold now it's hard to start warm or cold.

[So Cal Mark]

the float bowl can drain with an accel pump leak, so extended cranking is needed to fill the carb again. Plus, no shot of fuel when pumping the pedal. If the choke isn't working properly, cold start could be difficult

[apexwc]

I think it's both. I took off the cover of the accelerator pump and the PO had tried to seal it with silicon which, of course, had turned to jelly. I hope none of it got sucked into the carb. The choke doesn't seem to be working either. It moves freely with no resistance and does not close when the pedal is floored. Do the parts to repair the choke come in the repair kit? Looking more like a 34 ADF is in my future. Anybody have one cheap ?

[Zamise]

If you get a kit go with Pierce Manifolds kit See my thread down the way on the Speed Up Control Assy.

Also, if I remember right and I may not be correct, but I just adjusted my choke until the butterfly bairly closed all the way, and the butterfly on it stays fairly loose, it don't bobble around but I could push it open easily with a finger, as it heats up it slowly opens. Seems to be working well, but I've only ran mine around the block a few times since I've rebuit the carb. It leaking coolent has not seemed to be a problem, yet, but just about every dang thing else on my carb and other parts of the car have about had it.

Good luck!

Zam

[apexwc]

Thanks for the replies. The new diaphragm seems to have solved my problems for now. Maybe the choke is working and it hasn't been cold enough to close. Does anyone know at what temp. the choke closes/opens? The car starts and idles fine now but I have yet to see the choke close. I'll worry about it when it becomes a problem, too much other stuff needs attention.

[So Cal Mark]

at 70 deg F, the choke plate should be lightly closed. It's easily adjusted by turning the choke cover