A.I.R pump

[TulsaSpider]

Since I have no functioning emissions and Oklahoma has no inspection systems I would like to remove the AIR pump, hoses, and the fittings that go into the head. So who can tell me what size bolt/what to ask for.. to go get to block off the holes once the two fittings are removed??

[So Cal Mark]

the 1800 should have 4 holes in the head for the air injection rail; those holes are the same thread as the wheel bolts, 12mm x 1.25
Some of the 2L heads had two holes for check valves

[TulsaSpider]

Yea 4 holes! I just happen to have a wheel bolt so I can find a match too so that's easy!! This won't affect anything correct? Just getting rid of clutter!
Thanks Mark!!

[So Cal Mark]

no effect on running what so ever

[mbouse]

i believe that the studs that held the air pump to the block go through oil passages. you'll not want to remove the studs from the block (bottom of the engine).

instead, put one of those studs to good use by adding a second ground strap. 12-16" of black battery cable will do the trick. mount the other side to the inner fender on the passenger side.

[TulsaSpider]

Thanks Mike for that important tip!! I added a ground strap about a month ago. This procedure was very easy! I got rid of about 13 pounds or so of useless weight! On the same subject, I'd like to remove and plug the fittings in the intake and exaust as well. What size might those be?
Here's the useless junk!

Thanks guys!

[NickSpider]

Thanks Mike for that important tip!! I added a ground strap about a month ago. This procedure was very easy! I got rid of about 13 pounds or so of useless weight! On the same subject, I'd like to remove and plug the fittings in the intake and exaust as well. What size might those be?
Here's the useless junk!

Thanks guys!

I am in the same boat as you except on a 75 1800. What did you do with the electrical connections on the part of the emissions that attached to the passenger side wall of the engine compartment? Since those components arent in the stack of parts I am assuming you left them intact? Any chance you have a picture of your engine bay now?

[TulsaSpider]

Mine is a 78 there is zilch on the passenger side. There are 2 connectors that I do not know where they were hooked up. This car previously had AC so maybe they are related to that. On the driver's side there is the de-accell system and that is plumbed into the emissions somewhat. In fact I was going to remove that and noticed that it had a button and several wires leading to this button so I left it alone for now. So what is/was that button for guys?



Also I noticed that all the engine pics I see the distibutor is pointing toward the air cleaner assembly. Mine points to the radiator (see pic) What is up with this? anyone?? I finally have all the parts to change out my timing belt and hoses next weekend, so if this relates to the timing belt I can maybe fix it then???
Thanks as always!!
Clark

[TulsaSpider]

Oh and I plan on getting rid of that ridiculously long heater hose too! What's the best way to do this? Also what's good for the choke hoses? Fuel line???

[So Cal Mark]

fuel line will work for the choke hoses. The dizzy orientation is just because someone installed it that way. The proper heater hose has a 90 degree bend in it and is about 6" long.
It looks like your thermostat is installed incorrectly

[TulsaSpider]

So how would I remedy the distributor position? The thermostat is wrong? Which way is correct then? Maybe this is why it runs so cool, it seems to only get to 190 when sitting in traffic. It never overheats at least!!

[So Cal Mark]

the leg of the thermostat that is attached to the hose from the water tee should be connected to the short hose to the water pump. Also, does your water tee have a bleed screw in it? If it's pointed down then the water tee is on upside down.
As for the dizzy, put the motor on tdc with the cam pulleys aligned to the pointers as if you're replacing the t belt. Turn the dizzy to the angle you want and put a line on the base for reference. Then remove the dist cap, and dizzy. Point the rotor to the terminal for #4 inside the cap and install the dizzy to the reference point. Make sure the rotor is at #4. You'll need a timing light to accurately set the timing once it's running again

[TulsaSpider]

As always thanks Mark!
So is that why mine runs cool mostly?

What about plugging that port on the intake that used to run over to the AIR pump?
And I'd like to plug that line in the exaust as well...
Can you/anyone give me those sizes??

I guess she didn't like me pulling some of her guts out cause later that afternoon it wouldn't start! I thought it might be carb related cause I seem to have have discovered a slight leak on the accelerator pump, and I had re-adjusted the choke as we have had some amazingly un-August type weather here...anyways after some hair pulling and jumping about I finally traced the cause down to no spark. I took the points out and cleaned them, re installed, and no power... I would however get power intermittantly and I thought it was my test light... so to make a long story shorter.. I finally figured out that the wire from the connector to inside the dizzy must have been broken or a bad connection so I replaced that and it started right up!! It seemed to have more zip as well! Alls well that ends well eh?? Now when I get paid this week I need to order an accel diaphram, then this weekend is the T belt party! wohoo! I will be happy when that is done!

[So Cal Mark]

there shouldn't be any air pump connections on the intake, except the small vacuum hose to the diverter valve. Do you mean the egr system?

[TulsaSpider]

Probably.... there is a metal tube that comes out from the intake and goes about 1/4 way across the top of my timing cover and stops... (see pic above)I capped it with some rubber and glue when I got it. The rest of the tube is missing and it looks like someone befor me tried to weld it back but to no avail so it has been removed... Should I attempt to restore this sysem?? Does it help with anything??