cam wheels

[Tappy]

Becouse i'll be shortly changing the timing belt , and its my first time, i'm reading up on the topic

but are the holes in the camwheels always lined up correct OR can due po operations the camwheel not be in the correct position aligned with the cams themselfs ?


I've got the idea that theres something not correct on the alignment of the camswheels/cams , so please fill this in for me

Even better would be if someone could tell me , if positioned and aligned with the holes/camshafthousings, how the valves supposed to be

i'm sure some more questions will follow , but lets start with these

[mbouse]

STOCK cam wheels, STOCK cams... the holes on both the wheels should line up with the pointers of the timing indicator. when they do, the exhaust and intake valves will be in the correct position in anticipation of #1 piston to be at top dead center.

sometimes, depending on the belt, the applicator (PO) or the operation of the engine..the belt could be purposely mis-aligned; the belt could slip on one or both wheels, or on the crank pulley.

high performance cams are another story...one i have no experience at.

[Tappy]

i know this but can the camwheels be off , or can't they be mounted wrong ?

[mbouse]

i think there is a key on the cam that would prevent an improper mounting of the cam wheel.

[So Cal Mark]

they could be swapped from side to side which will create some real problems

[mbouse]

i did not realize that. Thanks mark.

Tappy, the cam i am sending has the wheel still on it. So, you should be able to differentiate between left and right... knowing that the correct wheel is on the cam in transit!!

[Tappy]

Ok recieved the camshaft today

now the tricky part starts ...
It seems like the correct wheels are on both camshafst
Now for remounting the whole head i need some advice , some do' s and don'ts
I've ordered a whole new headgasket package , so i'll be able to renew all gaskets in the head (except for the one on the dizzy (later on i'll get one from the nearby outshop , i hope)
Only thing i have is the haynes manual , and i know i'm suppose to tighten the bolts in 3 stages , up to .....
and there i'm getting lost in the tork table
Not even knowing the technical names for automotive parts in dutch , i'm completly lost in englisch. So i might need some help here

Can someone tell me how tight i need to screw on the headbolds ?
Can someone tell me how tight i need to screw on the camshaft bolts ?
Can someone tell me how tight i need to screw on the waffle manifold ?
Can someone tell me how tight i need to screw on the exhoust manifold ?

i understand you tighten in several stages working fom the inside out to prevent warping
Do you need to oil up the gaskets before placing ?

i've cleaned up al the surfaces that connect with the gaskets , do i need special sealer on some parts before srewing them down ?

thats it for now , when tis if fixed i'll write a walktrought how to adjust the timing belt , just to make sure i dont forget anything or do something wrong

(after 2 times timing belt failure i rather dont take no more chances)

[adrians]

A word about the Cam wheels.

I just had my head rebuilt, my original cam wheels didn't have any ridges on one side. When the mechanics refitted everything they discovered the belt moving forward off the cam wheels, as they turned the engine over. They worked out that the lower wheel/pulley were different and not originals, rather than replace the lower pulley, they swap my cam wheels for ones with ridges ( one forward face and one back).

So just be aware of that.

[mbouse]

intake cam pulley should have the belt keeper on the inside, exhaust cam pulley should have the belt keeper on the outside.

when i installed the rebuilt head this year, i oiled the head bolts with a drop or two of motor oil.
i've never used a torque wrench on intake or exhaust manifolds. common sense should be your guide here.
put nothing on the exhaust manifold gasket, or the head gasket. make sure you know which way is up on the head gasket. put some sealant around the coolant ports for the intake manifold.

can't recall the head bolt torque spec's but you are right about three stages, from the inside out.

brass nuts are supposed to be used on the exhaust manifold.

my boss told me about an "old school" method to help prevent bi-metalic fusion... anyone heard of putting iodine on steel bolt threads before you insert them in an aluminum body?