Rough starting/cold performance

[nicktheviking]

Hi guys, new spider owner here.

It's a 1980 FI w/ auto trans.

The car runs really well despite a few little problems.

When I start the car, it doesn't want to catch right away and sometimes will fire up and then die. If I spin the starter enough and give it some gas, I can usually keep it alive. After a few seconds, the car can idle by itself, but it idles pretty low ~500rpm or under. Once the car is warmed up, the problems vanish.

Is this a symptom of a problem or am I expecting too much out of a 28 year old car?

BTW, I've ordered oil filter, air filter, dizzy cap, plug wires, plugs, and front brakes to be replaced. Just waiting on parts to arrive.

[rlux4]

Have you check to see if your cold start valve is operating? Also, the auxilliary air regulator. These components compensate for cold engine conditions (increased frictional resistance) The aux. air regulator adds additional air into the intake plenum, the ECU compenstates by adding more gas via the cold start valve. This gives you a higher idle during warm up.
Ron

[nicktheviking]

I have not checked that. Is there an easy way to test those components?

[rlux4]

Yes.
Aux. air reg.: disconnect the rubber line from the plenum side and start the car when cold. It should idle high.
Cold start valve: You would need to confirm that it is getting the signal from the ECU to open. A noid light is great for this, if not use a volt meter or test light. If you have signal, unbolt the injector and point it into a glass container, crank the car, it should spray a steady spray. It doesn't pulse like the cylinder injectors.
Ron

[nicktheviking]

Awesome, thanks.

[rlux4]

The last thing to check if these two components are operating correctly is the thermo time switch. It's function is to turn off the cold start injector when the engine starts to warm up. It doesn't take long, about 8-10 seconds. It's located under the intake manifold, kinda hard to reach, so hopefully that's not the problem.
Ron

[ga.spyder]

My money is on the aux. air regulator.I had exactly the same symptoms that I lived with for months,thinking it was ''cold blooded''. I read a post here and tested the a.a.r. Voila problem solved.I was told to splice the 2 hoses together(I used tape!) and that bypasses the regulator.Make sure after the test to put them back,or it wont run when warm.
Craig

[ga.spyder]

OOPS...just saw Ron posted an easier way to test the a.a.r. I didnt know you could do it that way.Anyway ,check it first.This is a very common problem.
Craig

[rlux4]

Either way will work Craig. I did it the way you described also when I was diagnosing my similar problem. What I found though was that by simply disconnecting the plenum side hose you've allowed more air to be drawn into the plenum to compensate for the increased fuel the cold start valve is injecting. I also had to replace my AAR.
If you need one Nick, they are very expensive new, you should be able to find one used. Brad Artigue believes the European vendors are aware that this is a component that is due to fail after all these years and have put a premium on the new ones. I agree with him.
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

as with any item, if you only build a few they are going to be more expensive. Since the dollar is worth nothing these days, any parts from Europe will be very expensive for us.
I have a new one in stock if you're interested

[rlux4]

Don't just blurt that out Mark! What if my used one bites the dust? Can't you just hold on to it, just in case, someday, maybe, I might need it?
Ron

[nicktheviking]

Is the Aux. Air Regulator the same as the Aux. Air Valve?

Anyone have a part # perchance?

[So Cal Mark]

hey gang, after researching aux air valves this morning I found a rebuilder that will redo the units for $100. Let me know if you want to stock up

[nicktheviking]

Ah-ha!

I went to test the air valve this morning. Took the hose off going to the manifold. The car started up, hit 2k RPM and then abruptly died. That answers that. Put the tube back on and ...what's this?

The other hose exiting the air valve ( the one that goes to the plastic piece connecting the manifold to the air filter ) was JB welded or siliconed on. I wonder if someone had broken the plastic piece and tried to seal it up.

So I'm now in the market for that piece. Not sure what the name is.

[rlux4]

Sounds like you're talking about the air hose. It goes from the air flow meter (AFM) to the intake plenum. Right? If so, you just missed one on Ebay. But if you can use a better adhesive, something to bond rubber, as a temporary fix, they come up pretty often.
Mark: I'll take one. $100 is less than 1/2 what a new one is nowdays, and mine is used, so I would get one to have on hand when, not if, mine bites the dust.
Ron