Rough starting/cold performance

[ga.spyder]

Nick ,any chance you could post a pic of your problem area?Is i the large hose that goes to the afm ,or the small one that comes out of the aux air reg. ,and plugs into the large air intake hose?
Craig

[nicktheviking]

This is not a picture of my engine bay, but it illustrates the problem area. The inlet on that piece looks like it was broken off and the hose to the AAR has been JB welded.

[ga.spyder]

Nick ,that is something you can probably repair w/o springing for a new intake hose.Do you think this is causing your rough running ,or is it a cosmetic issue? If you havent already ,you should cotact rlux4 about the gathering on Sun.There wll be some experts there ,and they have offered to look your car over.Dont let Ron work on it ,he does his best wrenching from a lawn chair in Ace's yard!
Craig

[rlux4]

Yes, but I did an excellent job of supervising, if I do say so myself.
Ron

[nicktheviking]

It's a pretty rough patch job. I'm almost certain it's causing cold idle issues. I went ahead and just ordered the part from IAP.

[rlux4]

Nick, are you going to be able to join us this Sunday for the drive and BBQ?
Ron

[nicktheviking]

UPDATE:

Just replaced spark plugs, ignition wires, dizzy cap & rotor, and air hose (plastic piece from MAF to manifold.) Car revs better but I'm still experiencing some trouble 'catching,' when starting the motor and my idle likes to jump all over the place. Any idears?

[So Cal Mark]

have you checked the AFM for a sticking flap? Are you sure the idle speed isn't set too high? Have you checked for air leaks in the intake and for vacuum leaks?

[rlux4]

Be sure all the air connections are tight. Any air leak sends wrong signals to the ECU. Have you checked that the flap in the air flow meter is operating smoothly throughout the full range of motion, and that the spring is returning it to closed? Also check the dist. timing if you haven't done so yet.
It wouldn't make a big difference, but check if you have a blown diaphram in your vacuum advance module, this would be a vacuum leak.
Ron

Jeez, I just saw Mark's post, I sound like a parrot here.
Anyway, if it smooths out as it warms up, you should also pull the cold start valve and see if its spraying. It should be a steady spray, and not a stream.

[nicktheviking]

Thanks guys, I'm gonna check the connections tomorrow. I'll check the AFM while I'm there.

[ga.spyder]

Nick,
when you were in the dizzy did you change the magnetic p/u ? A bare wire or wire rubbing the rotor is #1 cause of the tach jumping at idle.I read a post when I first got my car about tach jumping.I pulled my cap,and there was no insulation on the wires and just a thread left.Would have been a short time before I would have been stranded.A f.i. car should have a smooth idle.
Craig

[nicktheviking]

Nick,
when you were in the dizzy did you change the magnetic p/u ? A bare wire or wire rubbing the rotor is #1 cause of the tach jumping at idle.I read a post when I first got my car about tach jumping.I pulled my cap,and there was no insulation on the wires and just a thread left.Would have been a short time before I would have been stranded.A f.i. car should have a smooth idle.
Craig

I should have mentioned. The pickup wasn't looking too hot, I'll be placing an order for a new one.

[nicktheviking]

So, when I unhook the AAR, the car dies. What does that mean? Someone mentioned it is supposed to idle high.

[So Cal Mark]

if it dies when you unhook the air hose to the aar, don't be surprised. That's a very large air leak. The aar doesn't open to the size of the hose, it's a much smaller air bypass around the throttle plate

[nicktheviking]

Well I followed the FI troubleshooting guide and set my idle. The car is running better when warmed up now. I'll have to test it tomorrow morning, but I still suspect a possible faulty AAR. I will test it as described in this thread.