rear suspension done
- geospider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:07 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: concord, ca
rear suspension done
just finished the rear. what a difference with the AR springs and Koni yellow; damn good looking with the blue springs too.
ride height sure looks good
first corner felt great and still have the front to do.
torquing the upper trailing arms loaded is a PITA; esp driver side rear.
question: the linkage for the rear brake modulator; from the axel going upward: there is a joint with some kind of bushing: mine fell apart. any ideas? not even sure what to call it.
thanks
geo
ride height sure looks good
first corner felt great and still have the front to do.
torquing the upper trailing arms loaded is a PITA; esp driver side rear.
question: the linkage for the rear brake modulator; from the axel going upward: there is a joint with some kind of bushing: mine fell apart. any ideas? not even sure what to call it.
thanks
geo
- geospider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:07 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: concord, ca
Re: rear suspension done
OK, so just looked at AR: is there anything they don't carry? found the linkage rod bushing.
what I can not find anywhere: nuts for the window regulator: M5-1.0
what I can not find anywhere: nuts for the window regulator: M5-1.0
-
- Posts: 1833
- Joined: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:45 pm
- Your car is a: 1975 Spider
- Location: clermont fl
Re: rear suspension done
m5-.8
Automotive Service Technology Instructor (34 year Fiat mechanic)
75 spider , 6 Lancia Scorpions, 2018 Abarth Spider, 500X wifes, 500L 3 82 Zagatos. 82 spider 34k original miles, 83 pininfarina, 8 fiat spider parts cars
son has 78 spider
75 spider , 6 Lancia Scorpions, 2018 Abarth Spider, 500X wifes, 500L 3 82 Zagatos. 82 spider 34k original miles, 83 pininfarina, 8 fiat spider parts cars
son has 78 spider
- geospider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:07 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: concord, ca
Re: rear suspension done
that does seem to be standard
have tried that size and spun the stud
Vick's said 1.0
have a replacement regulator and don;t want to do that again. may take a dye and recut so i know for sure.
M5 .8 only goes about 3/4 rotation, then stop
have tried that size and spun the stud
Vick's said 1.0
have a replacement regulator and don;t want to do that again. may take a dye and recut so i know for sure.
M5 .8 only goes about 3/4 rotation, then stop
-
- Patron 2018
- Posts: 226
- Joined: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:30 pm
- Your car is a: 1970 Fiat 124
Re: rear suspension done
I just take the part, if I can, to the store to use the thread checkers that they have.
But you can also buy one - as example. https://www.ebay.com/i/192144099848?chn=ps&dispItem=1
The M-5 has various pitches - fine and course - believe .8, 1.0 1.25 and maybe more.
But you can also buy one - as example. https://www.ebay.com/i/192144099848?chn=ps&dispItem=1
The M-5 has various pitches - fine and course - believe .8, 1.0 1.25 and maybe more.
- geospider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:07 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: concord, ca
Re: rear suspension done
thanks,
went to the fastener specialty place around here. they have everything...except a nut for this.
i am not sure what the pitches mean in metric, but it did not match up with .8 or 1.0. the guy thought it might be a .75.
got it from Vick's called them to see if they have any nuts that work on the art they sell. they are checking.
3 nuts and i can finally roll up the window. I can't imagine that the AR part would be any different.
thinking of drilling out the studs and using bolts and nuts.
this has been crazy
went to the fastener specialty place around here. they have everything...except a nut for this.
i am not sure what the pitches mean in metric, but it did not match up with .8 or 1.0. the guy thought it might be a .75.
got it from Vick's called them to see if they have any nuts that work on the art they sell. they are checking.
3 nuts and i can finally roll up the window. I can't imagine that the AR part would be any different.
thinking of drilling out the studs and using bolts and nuts.
this has been crazy
-
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Sun Oct 23, 2011 2:12 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Fiat 2000
- Location: Toronto, On
- geospider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:07 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: concord, ca
Re: rear suspension done
yes it is.
now i need a weekend to do the front: all steering linkage, front A arm rebuild, springs and shocks.
cant wait to get it done
now i need a weekend to do the front: all steering linkage, front A arm rebuild, springs and shocks.
cant wait to get it done
- phaetn
- Patron 2018
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:42 pm
- Your car is a: 1974 Fiat Spider 1800
- Location: Ottawa, ON Canada
Re: rear suspension done
I have the same set up: A/R progressive springs with Koni yellows.
I ended up putting in longer bolts from the crossmember to control arms as otherwise I was running out of thread with the changed steering geometry of a lowered car.
Cheers,
Phaetn
I ended up putting in longer bolts from the crossmember to control arms as otherwise I was running out of thread with the changed steering geometry of a lowered car.
Cheers,
Phaetn
- geospider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:07 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: concord, ca
Re: rear suspension done
Thanks Phaetn,
as I delve into the front end; hopefully in a week, I will take notice. I am assuming that may mean more shims as well.
I am sure you are enjoying your ride.
Geo
as I delve into the front end; hopefully in a week, I will take notice. I am assuming that may mean more shims as well.
I am sure you are enjoying your ride.
Geo
- phaetn
- Patron 2018
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:42 pm
- Your car is a: 1974 Fiat Spider 1800
- Location: Ottawa, ON Canada
Re: rear suspension done
Yes, I love the lowered ride. Well, I was enjoying it until I understeered into a sidewalk at the end of last season and have been chasing front end issues ever since. I might have bent the unibody. That said, I think I also have a tired steering box...
I am considered getting a new cross-member at some point next year when I pull the engine to have the bottom end rebuilt, but sometimes older is better.
Yes, I imagine you will need shims. Be prepared for some tricky alignment work -- a lot of shops won't have data for our old cars in their machines. Some know what they are doing, others will be totally non-plussed because they only work with modern struts.
It can be tough to get the old bolts out - they are tack welded and the rear one is inside the cross member so very, very difficult to get at. I spent hours inserting the rear bolt through the hole on bottom of the control arm then fishing it through (a magnet on a telescoping stick yielded the best success). I'm getting some work done again and might just have a shop cut a door flap in the crossmember and then weld it back shut. Also, the new bolts will rotate if they are not themselves tack welded. Instead I had a nut welted to the side of the head so it wouldn't spin once it levered against the bottom of the crossmember.
Good luck!
I am considered getting a new cross-member at some point next year when I pull the engine to have the bottom end rebuilt, but sometimes older is better.
Yes, I imagine you will need shims. Be prepared for some tricky alignment work -- a lot of shops won't have data for our old cars in their machines. Some know what they are doing, others will be totally non-plussed because they only work with modern struts.
It can be tough to get the old bolts out - they are tack welded and the rear one is inside the cross member so very, very difficult to get at. I spent hours inserting the rear bolt through the hole on bottom of the control arm then fishing it through (a magnet on a telescoping stick yielded the best success). I'm getting some work done again and might just have a shop cut a door flap in the crossmember and then weld it back shut. Also, the new bolts will rotate if they are not themselves tack welded. Instead I had a nut welted to the side of the head so it wouldn't spin once it levered against the bottom of the crossmember.
Good luck!
- geospider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:07 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: concord, ca
Re: rear suspension done
We tend to have projects with these great cars anyway. now you have the self inflicted kind: so sorry for that.
Hope you get it going. I'll post as I go with the front. Thanks for the advise on the front end.
Geo
Hope you get it going. I'll post as I go with the front. Thanks for the advise on the front end.
Geo
-
- Posts: 614
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:06 pm
- Your car is a: 1972 124 Spider
Re: rear suspension done
Just to encourage you as you work the front ends.....
Spouse sez they are the best upgrade/addition I've made to the car.....
Neil
Spouse sez they are the best upgrade/addition I've made to the car.....
Neil
Neil O'Connor
Madison, WI
72 FIAT 124 Spider
12 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit
14 Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn Eco-Diesel
ex-71 FIAT 124 Coupe
and a host of Audi's, Saabs, VW's, MOPAR's, Fords, and a Bimmer....
Madison, WI
72 FIAT 124 Spider
12 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit
14 Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn Eco-Diesel
ex-71 FIAT 124 Coupe
and a host of Audi's, Saabs, VW's, MOPAR's, Fords, and a Bimmer....
- geospider
- Patron 2020
- Posts: 585
- Joined: Mon Mar 20, 2017 9:07 pm
- Your car is a: 1979 Spider 2000
- Location: concord, ca
Re: rear suspension done
Thanks for the encouragement. looks like we have the same components.
looks like you have the new A-arms; AR didn't have in stock so I have all the parts and will rebuild, repaint. a learning experience.
just doing the rear was a nice change. Looking forward to the front.
A bit derailed right now: hoping I don't have a crack in the top of the head near my temp gauge sensor.
either way, will start in the front this week. An upcoming week off from work will give me plenty of time/no excuses.
Geo
looks like you have the new A-arms; AR didn't have in stock so I have all the parts and will rebuild, repaint. a learning experience.
just doing the rear was a nice change. Looking forward to the front.
A bit derailed right now: hoping I don't have a crack in the top of the head near my temp gauge sensor.
either way, will start in the front this week. An upcoming week off from work will give me plenty of time/no excuses.
Geo
-
- Posts: 614
- Joined: Thu Jul 05, 2012 7:06 pm
- Your car is a: 1972 124 Spider
Re: rear suspension done
Yup: Koni yellows at full soft, and A/R springs on mine as well. The fact that the A/R springs color matched my car was bonus!
I decided to go with new C-arms/ball joints. Cleaning/painting would have cost less, but I*know* the new ones are solid.
Was driving it yesterday to work (and tomorrow as well: last day at work, retirement starts 1630 tomorrow!). Biggest damn grin on my face all the way in, and continued despite the rain storm yesterday afternoon (and the wipers work!!).
Just be patient and safe with the work. Search on my old posts for a cautionary tale about risks....
Neil
I decided to go with new C-arms/ball joints. Cleaning/painting would have cost less, but I*know* the new ones are solid.
Was driving it yesterday to work (and tomorrow as well: last day at work, retirement starts 1630 tomorrow!). Biggest damn grin on my face all the way in, and continued despite the rain storm yesterday afternoon (and the wipers work!!).
Just be patient and safe with the work. Search on my old posts for a cautionary tale about risks....
Neil
Neil O'Connor
Madison, WI
72 FIAT 124 Spider
12 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit
14 Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn Eco-Diesel
ex-71 FIAT 124 Coupe
and a host of Audi's, Saabs, VW's, MOPAR's, Fords, and a Bimmer....
Madison, WI
72 FIAT 124 Spider
12 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Summit
14 Ram 1500 Laramie Longhorn Eco-Diesel
ex-71 FIAT 124 Coupe
and a host of Audi's, Saabs, VW's, MOPAR's, Fords, and a Bimmer....