Performance upgrades to '78 spider 124

[dcarey]

I have a stock 1978 124 spider. I'd like to put $1-2K into the engine to upgrade performance. Any recommendations for cabs, headers etc? I have a 32 ADFA single plane.

[phaetn]

I have a stainless header from Vick’s — works well. Where the SS downtube clamps to the headers can be finicky, so I had mine welded. I noticed an immediate improvement In pulling power (torque), especially when the engine comes on the cam after about 3500rpm.

I also have the Computronix ignition from Allison’s. That’s a great buy for a big, fat, juicy spark all through the rev range. You don’t have to worry about adjusting points or performance dropping as dwell time decreases as rpm increase, affecting spark.

All that is fed by an EMPI 32/36 DFEV carb (also availabe at Allison’s). I’m not sure how it relates to yours, but it was definitely better than what I had stock

I suspect you could get all of those for not much north of $1000 and should give a significant performance boost. Make sure you get rid of all the smog equipment, too, if you can get away without it in your state.

Cheers,
phaetn

(Edits for typos)

[dcarey]

I really appreciate the detailed replay, very helpful advice and I will take it. Thanks!

[Nanonevol]

Weber 34 ADF is also good if you can find one. Beware the Chinese copy.

[RRoller123]

Large valve head from AR and a lightened flywheel and cams from Allison's made a huge difference in my '80 2L FI.

[dcarey]

is there a shop in the US that provides/performs the work and parts or did you do it?

[RRoller123]

I shipped the head to AR and they did the machining work, added the larger valves, new springs, guides, etc. I did the rest of the mechanical upgrades and the assembly work on the car, other than putting in the lightened flywheel, you really want a lift to be able to do that work comfortably, and I don't have one. (Yet). If you have the drawings and specs, a competent automotive machinist should be able to modify the head for you, but I am more comfortable with one of our well known vendors for that sort of stuff. It all has to play together, and they know these cars inside and out.

[phaetn]

I had my head machined locally. But it was by a shop that Canadadan -- the local Fiat guru -- said it was the only one he trusted.

I should have installed bigger valves, but I guess I may do that another time. Instead I used new stock ones. I did get a multi-angle valve seating, though, and used new brass guides. Maybe if I ever bring in the block to get new (high compression?) pistons fitted I will have bigger valves seated and look at a lightened flywheel then, too.

dcarey, once you start machining that's more money and time on the road lost as you have to wait for the shop. Maybe a winter project if the car is not driven at that time. A flywheel and pistons also means you have to have an engine hoist to pull the block and (likely) the pain of disconnecting the transmission.

My advice is to start with the simple bolt-on stuff first: carb, header, ignition. Let that turn your crank for a while. Later (if you still have a quest for more power) then dig deeper like head work and block mods. You probably get a bigger bang for your buck with the bolt on stuff, too. There's a law of diminishing returns that quickly comes into play.

RRoller123, I'm seriously at the point of considering a lift, too. But then SpiderDan pointed me to a local DIY shop that rents lift time: CA$30/hr, and $2/min for a licensed mechanic's help or advice, to a max of $51/hr (so $81 total if you're really stuck). They provide some basic tools and air tools, too. It sure beats crawling under the car all the time! One can leave the car overnight, too, if need be.

Cheers,
phaetn

[RRoller123]

I like that rent a lift idea. It would be worth it just in physical discomfort alone, to rent it for an entire day and get a bunch of stuff done under there. These old bones are not happy when they have to roll around on garage floor concrete.

[architect]

I have a stainless header from Vick’s — works well. Where the SS downtube clamps to the headers can be finicky, so I had mine welded. I noticed an immediate improvement In pulling power (torque), especially when the engine comes on the cam after about 3500rpm.

I also have the Computronix ignition from Allison’s. That’s a great buy for a big, fat, juicy spark all through the rev range. You don’t have to worry about adjusting points or performance dropping as dwell time decreases as rpm increase, affecting spark.

All that is fed by an EMPI 32/36 DFEV carb (also availabe at Allison’s). I’m not sure how it relates to yours, but it was definitely better than what I had stock

I suspect you could get all of those for not much north of $1000 and should give a significant performance boost. Make sure you get rid of all the smog equipment, too, if you can get away without it in your state.

Cheers,
phaetn

(Edits for typos)

I made all of these modifications over the last 6 months + all new cooling (alum rad, water pump, etc) + elect fuel pump, stainless braided lines and new tank... but I have yet to crank it up for the first time ha!

After reading this post... It gets me excited to get my car running. Just waiting on Allison’s ignition to get here from the mail

[architect]

I had my head machined locally. But it was by a shop that Canadadan -- the local Fiat guru -- said it was the only one he trusted.

I should have installed bigger valves, but I guess I may do that another time. Instead I used new stock ones. I did get a multi-angle valve seating, though, and used new brass guides. Maybe if I ever bring in the block to get new (high compression?) pistons fitted I will have bigger valves seated and look at a lightened flywheel then, too.

dcarey, once you start machining that's more money and time on the road lost as you have to wait for the shop. Maybe a winter project if the car is not driven at that time. A flywheel and pistons also means you have to have an engine hoist to pull the block and (likely) the pain of disconnecting the transmission.

My advice is to start with the simple bolt-on stuff first: carb, header, ignition. Let that turn your crank for a while. Later (if you still have a quest for more power) then dig deeper like head work and block mods. You probably get a bigger bang for your buck with the bolt on stuff, too. There's a law of diminishing returns that quickly comes into play.

RRoller123, I'm seriously at the point of considering a lift, too. But then SpiderDan pointed me to a local DIY shop that rents lift time: CA$30/hr, and $2/min for a licensed mechanic's help or advice, to a max of $51/hr (so $81 total if you're really stuck). They provide some basic tools and air tools, too. It sure beats crawling under the car all the time! One can leave the car overnight, too, if need be.

Cheers,
phaetn

And I totally agree with this... some things are not worth the risk. I pretty much refuse to get under my car. I managed to swap out the exhaust with Vick’s bolt on, without lifting the car or clawing underneath.

I will be finding a local garage to swap out my new starter... After I spoke with the guys at AR... I decided it’s not worth the risk.

[michaelj]

I did a lot to my engine, and a lot of it was all at once, so i cannot say what was the best. I did go with the chinese knockoff carb from Allison and it cleaned up a ton of issues and has been perfect for about four years now. That, and the header, are probably the best two you can do without pulling the engine. They will give you the most bang for the buck.

If you pull that engine or trans for any reason, i highly recommend the lightened flywheel. I bought mine from Allisons and it makes my engine rev like a motorcycle. Real quick response. My old one weighed 19 pounds, the new one is 9 pounds. I also went with bigger valves and stage one cam revision from Allisons.

Best of luck.