bottom end rattle.

[gjones1967]

I just bought my first Spider. it is a 79 but with an 1800 engine. Head and cams were off (obviously for a reason but the PO bought it that way). I rebuilt the top end and started the engine and on higher revs I could here a rattle from the bottom end. As I pulled the car out of the garage after rebuilding the brakes the rattle got loader and the oil light flickered so I cut the engine. I have resigned myself to the fact I have to pull the motor. any ideas what I should replace while it is out?

Any memebers from Spring TX that could recommend as shop to do the rebuild in case I decide not to tackle it myself?

[piperstan10]

Tough question to answer.
Do you have a bearing knock or a rattle?
Do you have any metal chips or shavings in the oil?
Do you have any oil leaks?
what was the oil pressure?
As a minimum I would replace oil pump if everything else looks good. Also water pump, pan gasket etc
then I would plastiguage the rod and main bearings And examine the crank journals for scoring. also the crank seal surface for scoring.
don’t forget the auxiliary shaft bearings you will regret forever if the aux shaft seal leaks oil.
Also look at the cylinder walls for a ridge at the top. An indication of cylinder wear. Rent a bore gauge and mike the pistons to establish if you need to bore the cylinders or if honing will be adequate.

Bottom line is if you don,t, know the history of the engine it,s probably due for a rebuild.

If you’re mechanically inclined, engine assembly is not hard just follow instructions from one of the many manuals available. Find a reputable machine shop to clean,inspect bore etc.

also if you remove the engine, machine and balance flywheel and replace clutch, pressure plate and throwers out bearing.

That is just a start!

Stan

[gjones1967]

Thanks Stan.

When I rebuilt the head the cylinders were worn. I did not notice the oil pressure as I killed the engine pretty quick. It was more a rattle than a knock first only apparent on higher revs but got worse. I may check out the spare engine that I have and see what sort of condition that is in, although at least I know the top end is good on the one on the car. I was careful to re seat all the valves and thoroughly clean all the ports. I should have taken the time to do a compression test.

I checked auto Ricambi and it looks like a rebuild kit is around $600, which includes pistons. I intend to keep the car and don't mind investing that kind of money into it, but if I was going that far I gues having the cylinders machines would be a good idea.

[riverdadd]

R U sure its in lower block? anything that is bolted to engine can rattle at various rpm ranges. before you tear it all apart again, double check all parts are bolted tight, especially exhaust shield, air cleaner housing, dip stick tube, accel linkages.....ect

.....If it is a rod knock, then u will have to tear it down anyways, 1 more start and search won't hurt. might save you a headache, in long run........not sure a compression test will reveal a worn rod bearing. hope this helps, good luck

riverdadd

[gjones1967]

Pretty sure it is the bottom end. Also as I did not have the air filter assembly connected the engine was breathing quite a lot. You could visibly see blue ish fumes coming from the breather
, which I would imagine to be a bad thing. I could also smell burned oil

[piperstan10]

Well, smoke from crankcase breather and etc paints a different story which indicates dissembling short block. Could be worn oil rings, spun bearing, head gasket. Ring blow by would account for crankcase smoke and crank case pressure. Did you remember to install the two small hollow metal gallery pins in the block when you reinstalled head gasket? These channel oil from block low end to cams while also help position head gasket. Without the pins, oil could migrate to cylinder and reduce oil pressure.

The 124 engine has a high flow low pressure oil flow. So flickering oil light could indicate bad oil pump or worn bearings. That is why you should always replace pump when you work on the bottom end. And also critical to gauge piston and crank bearings to be sure within spec - too tight and bearings will seize, too loose, low oil pressure.

Just some thoughts

[gjones1967]

I believe those pins were in place. I am about to start on the 2 liter engine that I have as a spare. It is newer and was a FI engine. I will bare in mind what you have said when I rebuild it thanks.

[JohnGalt]

I've never messed with a fuel injected 2 liter but my '79 carbureted 2 liter runs great using the intake from a 1.8 liter and weber 34 carb.

I wonder if you can use the rebuilt heads from the 1.8 liter or at least switch the 2 liter to carbureted using the 1.8 liter's intake.

[gjones1967]

I have been told on here to take the head and intake off the 1800 and put it on the 2 liter just as you said. I have a 4, 2 1 exhaust manifold to go on it as well and intend installing an electric fuel pump. I also have an intake which is not the smog type with all the color coded little hoses, so they are going.