Valve tool

[manoa matt]

What are your guy's procedures for replacing shims on the #4 exhaust valve with a cam box mounted dizzy? I have'nt been able to get the double claw tool in there due to part of the cam box casting thats in the way. I've also tried using two of the single claw tools side by side, but they usually slip off and the valve springs back violently. Is there any danger of causing damage to the valve and bucket if it suddently slaps back.

[ventura ace]

Matt,
As I recall, I had to grind off part of the double-claw tool to make it fit around the #4 exhaust, but I can't remember the details. I may be involved with a valve adjustment tomorrow afternoon, and if so, I'll take a picture to show you what worked for me.

I like the spatula tool that Curly has, for compressing the shim/bucket, so one doesn't have to use cam rotation to install the claw tool. I wonder if it, or something similar, is available for purchase.

Alvon

[apexwc]

Since it's basically a pry bar I wonder if this would work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0251972827

[So Cal Mark]

the tool has to fit precisely on the edges of the bucket and clear the shim

[apexwc]

I meant using that tool to press the tappet down in order to insert the claw tool so you don't have to worry about turning the engine. I'm just referring to pry bar looking tool in the picture. It's cheap enough, unless some one can tell me why I should'nt try it I think I'll get it and see if it works. The only thing I can think of is that it may be too small.

[Jim DeShon]

If the distributor is in your way, just take it out. Just save that valve until last. Put the cam in position to adjust #4 exhaust. Remove the distributor. Use a "Sharpie" to mark the rim of the distributor so you get it back in the right place. It is a good idea to put a timing light on the engine when you're done to make sure you got it right but, you probably should be doing the ignition at this level of service anyhow. ...J.D.

[Curly]

Is it possible that the tool was binding the cam causing it not to move? The lobe was all the way up against the back of the tool, did I turn it too far? I don't know but it seemed like it was the cam that was not wanting to turn, not the engine. Is there something else the engine could have been binding on? The plugs were out, BTW.
Here's another question: If the '78 is a non-interference engine and I'm going to change the timing belt anyway, can I take the belt off, do the valves by rotating the cams by hand, then put the new belt on? If not, should I put the new belt on, make sure everything is lined up properly, and then do the valves?

The tool may have been binding on the underside of the cam, I can't think of anything else that would make it hard to turn.
IF your engine is truely a non-interference motor then you should be able to remove the belt and do the valve clearances by turning the cams individually. I've done it like this on the bench with the head off, but you have to be confident that the valves aren't going to be hitting each other.

As for doing #4 exhaust - the advantage of the single claw tool is that it will fit into that location with a bit of jiggling. I've had the tool slip off the edge of the bucket occasionally and it hasn't done any harm apart from splashing oil everywhere - that's another good reason for using a syringe to empty the cam boxes of oil before you start.

[Jim DeShon]

Sorry...You cannot turn the cams very far with the timing belt off. The cams have more lift than the tool does. Be careful here. You can cause some expensive damage. I haven't done this job in some years so anyone that is doings this all the time feel free to correct for my senior citizen brain. ...J.D.

[ventura ace]

Matt,
As I recall, I had to grind off part of the double-claw tool to make it fit around the #4 exhaust, but I can't remember the details. I may be involved with a valve adjustment tomorrow afternoon, and if so, I'll take a picture to show you what worked for me.

Matt,
Here are a few pictures showing how I ground off material to make the double-claw tool fit around the distributor mount on the exhaust side cam shaft. Please ignore the dirty cam tower. It's a spare that was in my garage clutter. I hope the one in my Fiat engine isn't that dirty on the inside!

Alvon

[htchevyii]

Matt,
As I recall, I had to grind off part of the double-claw tool to make it fit around the #4 exhaust, but I can't remember the details. I may be involved with a valve adjustment tomorrow afternoon, and if so, I'll take a picture to show you what worked for me.

I like the spatula tool that Curly has, for compressing the shim/bucket, so one doesn't have to use cam rotation to install the claw tool. I wonder if it, or something similar, is available for purchase.

Alvon

I've been using a large flat bladed screwdriver. I rounded the tip to make sure I don't gouge the cam & just push it between the cam base circle & shim. Don't pry, it works like a wedge. Now you can slip the tool in without turning the engine. Before I got the tool I used a small flat screwdriver sideways on one side of the bucket, but it was a pain.

[cryodavid]

I have a 78 spider that I have owned since new. Some how I have lost my valve tools and I need to adjust my valves now. I have no proble with shims. Does anyone know where I cal purchase a new set somwhere?
Thanks

[htchevyii]

http://www.vickauto.com/cgi-bin/store/65-2594.html

[cryodavid]

http://www.vickauto.com/cgi-bin/store/65-2594.html

Thanks a lot. I bought the tool and will take care of business in a short while.