hard starting when hot or after short stop

[masspydr]

Ok micbrody
Went to a auto supply to get transmission fluid and a 12 mm Allen key , got home drained fluid when hot then l changed csv
Started right up when the car was still hot then l replaced connection at the “t” front of motor so the car started before the connection at the sensor which I’m going to replace next time l flush system
I hope this helps

[masspydr]

Ok regarding temp
It was at least 140 -150 still hot because of the run

[micbrody]

Thanks; I don’t think CSI adds much, if any fuel to plenum when that hot. Maybe your old valve leaked, and was always adding unnecessary fuel to air plenum.
So if CSI now shut off; and reliable t-temp probe connection, that would totally make engine run much smoother .
Congratulations !

[masspydr]

Thank you
Now I’m thinking about the fuel injectors,should I replace them ?l don’t know when or if they were ever replaced.
Fuel consumption is not great

[RRoller123]

Have them cleaned and serviced. OK Injectors does a good job.

[micbrody]

I cleaned them using a syringe, 9 volt battery; and carb cleaner; and then repeated with concentrated fuel injector cleaner

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7aT4S1lIBAY

[RRoller123]

tested afterwards, fine, even mist spray, no leakage under rail pressure?

[micbrody]

Yes. With the four cleaned injectors connected to fuel rail (but not installed on engine and electrical connectors off)
(The following is from memory....hopefully I remembered correctly):
1) wedge screw driver into air intake of AFM . This energizes fuel pump when ignition key in “run” position
2) attach wires and 9 volt battery (but with electrical break/switch )
3) position injector of interest to spray into glass bottle
4) turn ignition to “run”; should hear slight hum of fuel pump
5) make electrical connection (pulse) on fuel injector and observe

I know my observations were subjective without measurement, but the spray seemed uniform; fine; and shut off without leaking. With pump off after fuel rail energized, I wiped off all excess fuel and returned an hour or two later. No major drips; a tiny amount of fuel moisture on tips of pintles; but not enough to generate a drop

[micbrody]

Update on disconnected CSI :
Still starts instantly when car has previously been run within 12 hrs
This past weekend it was raining. I didn’t start car for three days. Very difficult start. After that, instant starts all day.
This morning very difficult start. I’m guessing it will instantly start again this afternoon because it’s dry and sitting in sun.

My theory about fuel rail not being pressurized is probably incorrect. The fuel rail should be adequately pressurized within 1-2 secs; so that wouldn’t explain a 10-15 second bad start time.
I think I will reset the AAV to close shutter when cold a little more(I had previously opened it up from its factory setting. So when cold and no CSI, car is probably too lean. Bosch manual discusses that at cold start, there is condensation in air intake that makes poor fuel vaporization conditions. So maybe when sitting for a day or two(especially in humid weather), lots of condensation/moisture) on air intake coupled with me opening up AAV probably has caused the bad cold starts.
So my plan:
1) reset AAV
2) replace TTS (when I flush radiator next time)