Emergency brake

[tima01864]

I have completed the brakes, Almost. New rear calipers new rubber hoses and hard lines in the rear. Bleeding, bled with gravity. Push on the pedal with a broom stick rotors lock, take it off they turn. The Emergency brake will not hold the rotors, Followed the procedure. The lever when free and pulled does lock the rotor. Question, any opinion, Is the cable stretched beyond function, The only thing I can think of. I adjusted the cable to its end of travel also

[ORFORD2004]

That's why I change mine with 2013 Fiat 500. Now I have handbrake. You can check if the cable hold in there bracket in front. I made 2 washers with a slot to hold the cable with my original system.

[tima01864]

Everything on the cable looks okay, The ferrules did not seat in the turnbuckle so i filed to fit. Just put the driveshaft back up so i will try it again, the brakes work. It is a mystery, Crossing my fingers it is not bad calipers

[DieselSpider]

Everything on the cable looks okay, The ferrules did not seat in the turnbuckle so i filed to fit. Just put the driveshaft back up so i will try it again, the brakes work. It is a mystery, Crossing my fingers it is not bad calipers

First you loosen the parking brake adjuster on the brake handle before you change the rear pads.
Screw the slotted rear brake pistons all the way in before you put in the new pads.
You do have to apply the brakes several times after you install the pads to allow the self adjusters built into the backs of the pistons to do their thing.
Then you pull up the parking brake level the correct amount of clicks and tighten the parking brake cable adjuster to where the slack is taken up. Until the self adjusters set themselves to the level of the new pads you won't get a good parking brake adjustment or grab.

If the brakes were not flushed every 2 years then the clutch bearings in the adjusters can get gummed up so badly that you will have to unscrew the pistons completely out of the calipers so you can clean the clutch bearings and tension spring inside the pistons. if you release the cir-clip to disassemble them for cleaning do it over a pan with a shop towel in it to prevent the steel ball bearings from flying loose and bouncing all over because they are not locked into their race and are a lose set of balls.

At about the 6 minute mark in this video you get to see whats inside the typical rear brake piston though this one is slightly different from those on the Spider:
https://youtu.be/StNGwDHVICg

[tima01864]

Well i installed a new emergency brake cable on new calipers, did the three clicks. Tightened the equalizer nut, Only one brake grabs. just a slight push on the actuating lever stops the other wheel. Common issue?

[Frog2Spider]

So, is it my correct understanding that you must first pull the emergency brake handle up 3 clicks, BEFORE tightening the cable to adjust?

Thanks for your input,
Dave.

[tima01864]

According to the Service manual and various posts, Makes sense three clicks to pre tension the cable for use. Mine, With a new cable, Would only lock one wheel. Thinking to put a clamp on the one not working and slightly pre load the lever on the caliper that doesnt, hoping to spread the tension evenly. Or maybe the L-Rod that pulls the bracket is bent, Or maybe it will work itself out, but i doubt that.. Otherwise I have not an answer. Passe inspection barely

[Spider951]

I had to replace my e-brake cable (PO had installed a new exhaust system, but failed to notice that the cable was in contact with exhaust pipe). After I removed the fried, rusted, and ruined brake cable and re-positioned the exhaust pipe, I installed the new cable. I found that the new cable was way tighter than the old, resulting in using a longer L-bolt and other tricks just to get to the 3 click stage. Holds great when the car is on jack stands.....but not so great when the car is parked on a hill (don't ask how I know this). I obviously still have some work to do. Wish I had the correct answer for you, but thought I'd pass along some hard-won information.