Precautions

[mik]

I haven't turned the engine in my 124 Spider in 2yrs. What should I do to ensure all parts are
lubricated enough when I turn the key. I will drain oil and any gas and refresh. More concerned
that I may do damage if parts that should have oil don't.
Thanks, Mike

[tima01864]

In my FIAT's of old, When I let it sit without starting, I pulled the plugs. Sprayed PB Blaster in the cylinders, let it sit overnight. Then poured Some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders. Carefully turned the crank by hand clock wise. That worked for me, then changed the oil.

[DieselSpider]

A lot depends on what you did to prepare the car for 2 years of storage.

If the engine was not prepared for long term storage with 0.5 ounce of oil poured into each cylinder then you want to do as tima01864 suggested with PB Blaster or Marvel Mystery Oil. After 2 years sitting you will also need to repack the front wheel bearings, flush the coolant, flush the brake system, clean the slides on all the brake calipers and check the fluid levels in the transmission along with the rear axle.

[mik]

Thanks for the great advice. Two years have turned to 6-7yrs.I see online someone is using a product called Fogging oil in the cylinders. Is that to replace the Mystery Marvel oil. Is Mystery Marvel Oil a spray like the Fogging oil? Seems to be an easy way, but is it better. Not familiar with either product. Is the Fogging oil like the PB Blaster?
Thanks

[DieselSpider]

Thanks for the great advice. Two years have turned to 6-7yrs.I see online someone is using a product called Fogging oil in the cylinders. Is that to replace the Mystery Marvel oil. Is Mystery Marvel Oil a spray like the Fogging oil? Seems to be an easy way, but is it better. Not familiar with either product. Is the Fogging oil like the PB Blaster?
Thanks

Fogging Oil is designed for setting up an engine for long term storage and can be purchased in an aerosol to be sprayed into each cylinder turning the engine afterwards or as a liquid added to each cylinder or dripped down the intake turning the engine afterwards or a liquid to be added to some stabilized fuel in a heavy concentration and run into the engine (adding to fuel and run in to me is the better than nothing method as far as I am concerned but really not that much better than doing nothing). Fogging Oil has better adhesion and film retention than Mystery Oil so that it will stay put on the sides of the cylinder walls and valves to prevent them from rusting. PBlaster and Mystery Oil are highly detergent penetrating oils that are great for cleaning but do not have the adhesion and film retention of the fogging oil.

So Fogging Oil is used at the moment you put an engine in storage while the Mystery Oil or PBlaster would be used when taking it out of storage or as a remediation when an engine was not put into storage correctly.

Fogging Oil can put out a smoke screen the US Navy would be envious of when you first start the engine up when taking it out of storage.

This video shows the first start of an outboard motor that was fogged before putting it away for the winter and by the looks of things it was not over treated so the smoking is not too bad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ng7J-o5Az8w

[SteinOnkel]

I would not stress too much about it.

Apart from flushing all the fluids, I would pull all the spark plugs and spray some WD40, PB Plaster, Olive Oil from the kitchen, whatever is slick down and let it sit for a day. Then, put the car into 5th gear and gently rock it back and fourth. Keep an eye on the crankshaft pulley and see if it moves. If it does, jack one side of the rear up and while it is still in gear attempt to rotate the entire drivetrain one full rotation. Leave the other driven wheel on the ground and let the ONLY advantage of an open diff work for you

Afterwards, put in fresh oil and a filter, new battery, take it out of gear and gently bump the starter. Do not install spark plugs yet. After a few goes of this without any binding, crunching or otherwise abnormal noises, crank it for a full 30 seconds. Install an additional oil pressure gauge and let it build pressure.

If it does:

Reinstall spark plugs, clean out your carburettor, put fresh gas (87 octane is easier to ignite) into it and start it like you would normally. If all checks out, it'll catch.

We went through this routine earlier this year (we used ATF in the cylinders) on a completely seized engine. Here's the result:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZuqeNJzBuM

[mik]

pulled the plugs out to spray some wd40 into the cylinders and they are champion RN9YC type. Is this appropriate for the 1969 124AS 1438cc engine? I think one champion recommended is the NY6 I think. Should I switch them out?
Thanks

[mik]

Thanks for all the help on starting after long storage. Started right up. Now I noticed the fuel pump is leaking pretty badly around
the gasket area. I have a 1969 124 sport spider and would like to know is this something I can replace fairly easy? Relocating to Az in 1 1/2 weeks. Not much time with everything else. What vendor and should I just go ahead and replace the whole pump? I hear no noise issues, just the leaking of fuel. Thanks for your help.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Answering a few of your questions:

1. I use Champion N6Y or the equivalent, but N9Y also works just fine in my '69. The "R" designation just means "resistor plug", which is better at noise suppression for your car radio.

2. Can you describe more about the leak at the gasket area? The top bell cover to fuel pump body gasket, top bell cover itself (prone to cracking as it's pot metal), loose brass fitting into the pump, cracked/loose fuel hose right at the pump fitting?

3. New pumps are easy to come by for this engine, from the usual suppliers such as Vick Auto, AutoRicambi, Midwest-Bayless, etc. If you have a good auto parts store where you are, they might be able to get one for you, too.

4. Replacing the fuel pump isn't too bad, but on the 1438 engine, the tricky part is getting to the hose clamps.

5. Disconnect the battery when working on fuel system components.

-Bryan

[mik]

Thanks Bryan, I also wonder how to get to the two screws on the back of the fuel pump. It sits under the manifold, do I need a
special tool? Sort of hard to get to. The leak seems to be coming from underneath unless it it flowing down from the area between the dome and the bottom. There is a yellow plastic spacer and gasket. I ordered a pump and gasket from Vick autosports as well as the black spacer that goes between the pump and the block. Just looks like a hard piece to get out.
Thanks, Mike

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Mike, the fuel pump is held to the block with two 13 mm bolts (with split washers), and the best way that I have found to get to them is by feel. I use a 13mm socket with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a 3" extension. I agree with you that it's a pain to remove, and sometimes it's actually easier to get to the bolts from below, with the car properly supported on jack stands or ramps or the like.

I was going to add about the phenolic spacer, but you beat me to it. Don't forget to use two gaskets: one between the spacer and the block, and one between the spacer and the fuel pump.

-Bryan

[mik]

I’m an idiot, of course I’m taking off the bolts, I was looking at the screws that would take the dome off. The fuel pump has a gasket and comes with the gasket for the spacer. Do I have to treat the spacer gasket with anything?

[Odoyle]

As said above, make sure there is a gasket on both side of the spacer, some like to use a smear of permatex aviation form-a-gasket, as insurance, but not required. Also make sure the arm of the fuel pump is positioned above the auxiliary shaft lobe.

[mik]

Hey Bryan, you have been very helpful. Rec'd your response after I ordered. You would think that someone on Vicks end would have told me to include two gaskets for the spacer. Unfortunately I will have to pay $8 to send the two gaskets that weight nothing. I want to thank you for your help as I'm in a
tough spot moving to AZ in a week and a half. They are sending a gasket that I believe is for between the pump and the spacer. I will order the pair that Vicks has to offer. Last question on this subject, I hope. Will I get fuel run off from the disconnect of the hoses, and will I have to prime the new pump in some fashion after the change of pump?
Thanks again, Mike

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Thanks for the additional info Mike, and actually I may have misunderstood. You might be able to remove the top screw that holds the dome cover on the fuel pump, but it's likely a total PITA, and it's much easier just to remove the fuel pump as a unit (via the two 13 mm bolts). Especially since you're going to replace anyway.

A few answers/thoughts:

1) Your new fuel pump and spacer may come with the gaskets you need. You could call Vick Auto to verify.
2) Yes, some fuel will dribble out of the fuel lines when you disconnect, but mainly the line from the fuel pump to the carb. So, what I do to minimize fuel leakage, is to remove the rubber hose from fuel pump to the carburetor first, but only where it connects to the carb. Leave the end connected to the fuel pump as is. In that way, some of the fuel in that line will drain back through the pump and back towards the tank. Not perfect, but it helps. Then, while keeping the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb still connected at the fuel pump inlet, remove the fuel line from the inlet to the fuel pump (the rubber hose that goes to the metal line back in the transmission tunnel). Then remove the fuel pump, keeping that remaining hose on the pump upright so it doesn't spill fuel. Find a bucket or whatever, turn the whole thing upside down, and let any remaining fuel drip out. Hope that made sense...
3) You do have to prime the new fuel pump on restarting, but the easiest way is to just crank the engine and let the fuel pump prime itself. It might take 30 seconds of cranking, with pauses in between so as not to burn up your starter or battery. One option is to remove the spark plugs while cranking, which lessens the load on the starter and battery. Try the 30 seconds of cranking over several periods, reinsert spark plugs, and that bad boy should fire right up.

-Bryan