Won’t start no noise.

[vincefiat]

Need help. Car started fine a couple of days ago. Tonight tried to start and nothing-no starter noise. Lights on dash came on but nothing. But a boost to it and started right up. Battery is fairly new. What do I check.

[aj81spider]

Put a meter on it to see what voltage you have when running. It should be 13-14 volts. If the alternator isn't working then you never recharge the battery (and you have sustained loads that drain it pretty quickly).

That would be the first thing I would check (because it happened to me once!). I put a voltmeter in my dash in place of the clock so I can always tell if the alternator is working.

[vincefiat]

Thanks A.J. Will do, what "sustained loads" should I be looking for.

[18Fiatsandcounting]

Thanks A.J. Will do, what "sustained loads" should I be looking for.

I think A.J. is referring to big electrical loads like headlights, fans (cooling or ventilation) or a stereo system. These can draw several amps and drain a battery within a few hours. Most other electrical devices are less than an amp, although in combination the electrical load can be significant (such as all the side marker and taillights when you have your parking lights on).

Also, if you haven't checked this, make sure that the battery connections are clean and tight.

-Bryan

[vincefiat]

Thanks A.J. Will do, what "sustained loads" should I be looking for.

I think A.J. is referring to big electrical loads like headlights, fans (cooling or ventilation) or a stereo system. These can draw several amps and drain a battery within a few hours. Most other electrical devices are less than an amp, although in combination the electrical load can be significant (such as all the side marker and taillights when you have your parking lights on).

Also, if you haven't checked this, make sure that the battery connections are clean and tight.

-Bryan

tHanks Bryan

[SteinOnkel]

Could also be the ignition switch. I had a similar issue a few weeks ago and I had to wiggle it just right to get continuity to the starter and coil.

I put in a lada switch (I know, I know) and the problem was gone.

[vincefiat]

Could also be the ignition switch. I had a similar issue a few weeks ago and I had to wiggle it just right to get continuity to the starter and coil.

I put in a lada switch (I know, I know) and the problem was gone.

Thank You, new to this. What is wrong with Lada switch.

[RRoller123]

They have a reputation for poor reliability. Internals. I cannot verify if this is actually true from my own experience. Very often, it is another connection downstream, and frequently the Fast-On connections on the back of the switch that cause the problems. They are considered reliable enough though to trigger a relay system. I haven't heard of any problems when a new Lada switch is used for that purpose. Anyone else comment on that?

[SteinOnkel]

The Lada switch is 1/10th of what the Fiat costs. That's where the discussion ended for me.

It takes ten minutes to swap it out, so I bought two and keep a spare in the glovebox.

[spider2081]

I may be a little old school but I wouldn't buy or change any parts with out first performing some logical troubleshooting.

[DieselSpider]

First check that the battery still has enough water in it. Even supposedly "Maintenance Free" batteries that appear to be sealed many times have screw in or pry-off caps on them which are at times hidden by a plastic label.

After you verify that each cell in the battery is up to the full mark check the voltage which should be around 12.5 volts (less than 12 would indicate a problem) then start the car and verify that the alternator is providing around a 13.8 volt charge to the battery.

If the voltage with the car running is much less than 13.8 volts then you likely have a problem with the charging system which can be something as simple as the indicator bulb in the dashboard being burned out or swapped to an LED.

If the alternator appears to be charging the battery then after at least 30 minutes shut off the car and check the battery voltage which should be around 12.8 volts or better, wait about 10 minutes and it should have leveled off to about 12.5 volts and then a half hour later it should still be over 12 volts.

If the voltage from the battery drops to below 12 volts during the drop down test you could have a parasitic draw such as a stuck relay or a partial short circuit however if it drops to below 11 you likely have a bad battery.

You could also just drive over to the likes of Advance, AutoZone, Oreilly, etc and have them do a Free Battery and Charging System Test so they can take the guess work out of it and tell you if its a simple battery failure or a charging system issue.

If the battery and charging system check out fine then you may have a dead spot on the starter, bad starter solenoid or an ignition switch issue however most major auto parts stores can do a basic starter test at no charge too and may be able to tell you if its getting weak, etc. You may find that the connection to red/pink wire to the starter solenoid or the main battery cable connection on the starter just needs cleaning and tightening.

[vincefiat]

First check that the battery still has enough water in it. Even supposedly "Maintenance Free" batteries that appear to be sealed many times have screw in or pry-off caps on them which are at times hidden by a plastic label.

After you verify that each cell in the battery is up to the full mark check the voltage which should be around 12.5 volts (less than 12 would indicate a problem) then start the car and verify that the alternator is providing around a 13.8 volt charge to the battery.

If the voltage with the car running is much less than 13.8 volts then you likely have a problem with the charging system which can be something as simple as the indicator bulb in the dashboard being burned out or swapped to an LED.

If the alternator appears to be charging the battery then after at least 30 minutes shut off the car and check the battery voltage which should be around 12.8 volts or better, wait about 10 minutes and it should have leveled off to about 12.5 volts and then a half hour later it should still be over 12 volts.

If the voltage from the battery drops to below 12 volts during the drop down test you could have a parasitic draw such as a stuck relay or a partial short circuit however if it drops to below 11 you likely have a bad battery.

You could also just drive over to the likes of Advance, AutoZone, Oreilly, etc and have them do a Free Battery and Charging System Test so they can take the guess work out of it and tell you if its a simple battery failure or a charging system issue.

If the battery and charging system check out fine then you may have a dead spot on the starter, bad starter solenoid or an ignition switch issue however most major auto parts stores can do a basic starter test at no charge too and may be able to tell you if its getting weak, etc. You may find that the connection to red/pink wire to the starter solenoid or the main battery cable connection on the starter just needs cleaning and tightening.

Thanks Alot, sounds like a plan. Let you know what comes out of it. Vince

[vincefiat]

So did a check. Battery is running at 12.5. With car started I only read 13.1. Is it the alternator or something else.

[SteinOnkel]

Sounds like your alternator is on the way out. Take it out and take it to your local parts store to have it tested.

A healthy alternator will put out 14.5V on a discharged battery. You want to be at around 13.8 after twenty minutes of driving, that would indicate a solid alternator and battery.

[DieselSpider]

So did a check. Battery is running at 12.5. With car started I only read 13.1. Is it the alternator or something else.

13.1 could be low depending on the idle speed along with other factors. If the idle speed as a bit low you won't get the normal 13.8 ish you expect from a vintage alternator. 13.8 running would be without the headlights, fan, etc or other heavy electrical loads running since at idle especially if your idle speed is set a bit low having heavy electrical loads turned on will give you a lower voltage reading.

Simple would be to stop by a parts store that does a free check and have them put their tester on it.

Your battery charger if its a better one will have battery and charging system diagnostics built into it and can also tell you if your battery is failing, if there is a bad diode in the alternator, etc.

If it has not happened again its always possible that you forgot something on that one time or left a GPS, Dash Cam, Cell Phone Charger, etc plugged in.

How many days did the car sit from the last time you drove it when you found the battery dead and had to jump it? I know you said a couple which means 2 days however some stretch that to a week so just making sure.