Thought I would start a new thread about my adventures with the Lada Crossmember.
Bought this from lada Power and cost around $150 delivered. Too three weeks to arrive. Not bad.
It is, sort of, a version of a 1.8 crossmember: it does not have the cut-out for the 2.0 exhaust. It does not have the shims on the seats...but it doesn't need them. It is already "taller" as for a 2.0 motor.
I did the cut out with an angle grinder. not hard but the shape is slightly different, not as much material on the edge, so won't know exactly where the cut-out fits until I slap it up into place.
Also, cut the upper spacer, the triangle, that helps the crossmember sit firmly against the body, from the old crossmember. Not hard.
Overall it seems to be made well enough. One exception is the way two of the bolts are fitted: not welded but kept from spinning with a tab. Probably not a terrible set up but I'll get those welded just to be sure.
Will post more as I attempt to fit it into place.
Meanwhile, some images:
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Lada Crossmember
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Re: Lada Crossmember
(Another delete...)
Last edited by rodo on Sat Aug 29, 2020 5:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Lada Crossmember
That cross member appears to be thin enough compared to the original that you may not need to make the cut out for the exhaust. If you do need to cut into it pay attention that you do not cut off or into the welds that hold the bottom all together. You will likely need to do some welding repairs if you end up weakening those tack welds holding the bottom plate on.
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Re: Lada Crossmember
Exactly my thoughts, too. I did remove some of the material, about half what was removed on an OEM, and was careful to not go too deep. Should do the trick but frustrating to not know until the engine is hanging by chains.
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Re: Lada Crossmember
(Delete)
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Re: Lada Crossmember
Update:
delayed installing the crossmember b/c of necessary oil pan replacement. Readying for crossmember. Tried the two bolts and four nuts...appears that the good Ukrainians who manufactured the piece were a bit ambitious with the paint and painted threads. So I'm having to clean paint from all four bolts (that hold the A-arms) and the two nuts (for the upper bolt).
Annoying but not desperate.
delayed installing the crossmember b/c of necessary oil pan replacement. Readying for crossmember. Tried the two bolts and four nuts...appears that the good Ukrainians who manufactured the piece were a bit ambitious with the paint and painted threads. So I'm having to clean paint from all four bolts (that hold the A-arms) and the two nuts (for the upper bolt).
Annoying but not desperate.
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Re: Lada Crossmember
Update 3 - Yeah, metal-brushed the paint off and that did the trick. Working the bolts I managed to twist one enough so the tab holding it steady bent loose. Hm...not sure how that will play how when installing/torquing. We'll see. Installation went well until my attempt to fit the long bolt at the top. As mentioned above, this crossmember does not have the 2.0 seats, it is already raised the right amount. But the OEM style did only the spacer, that thick metal plate used to take up space and fit the crossmember to the body, did not sit on that plate. So it is off about an eighth of an inch. I cut that down and it will slide in easily (which I hope is not an issue) and my last bolt can go on. Then the A-Arms...
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Re: Lada Crossmember
I'm curious to hear how this progresses, so thanks for the updates.
-Bryan
-Bryan
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Re: Lada Crossmember
Thanks Bryan, I'm interested, too! Got it torqued down today. No drama. Well, no drama besides the regular drama of trying to get those nuts through the crossmember onto the motor mount. Dang! Real test will be the A-Arms and how much the bolts want to move. Must be some reason Lada does them like this, not welded. Stay tuned.
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Re: Lada Crossmember
Update 4
Yesterday I torqued down all the bolts and nuts, then installed the A-arms and torqued them down. All worked! The junky Ukrainan crossmember works!
And then I noticed the oil drip from my pan. Yes, bum pan and will need replacing. Everything I just did will be done again. Swell. The crossmember will be given a real workout.
I'm very excited.
The FIAT is sending me to therapy.
Yesterday I torqued down all the bolts and nuts, then installed the A-arms and torqued them down. All worked! The junky Ukrainan crossmember works!
And then I noticed the oil drip from my pan. Yes, bum pan and will need replacing. Everything I just did will be done again. Swell. The crossmember will be given a real workout.
I'm very excited.
The FIAT is sending me to therapy.
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- Your car is a: 1981 Spider
Re: Lada Crossmember
Update 5: New pan in, crossmember back up, A-Arms back on, all torqued. So far, the crossmember is functioning just perfectly well. Nothing slipping or sliding or not able to be tightened. Final test in several weeks when I attempt the alignment.
Meanwhile, I have asked Interpol to put out an arrest for the Italian who designed the lower motor mount nut installation.
Meanwhile, I have asked Interpol to put out an arrest for the Italian who designed the lower motor mount nut installation.
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Re: Lada Crossmember
How is your project coming? I'm assuming that you never removed the engine from the bay, had it hanging while removing the cross member?
Regarding the lower mount nuts. Yes, can be a pain. Next time, i would work the holes on the underside to allow a socket to be placed squarely on the nut.
I ended up having to have the engine hanging, with the rubber mounts loose in hand, then reached into the crossmember from the top opening. Was able to hold washer and nut in place and then threaded the rubber mount into the nut.
Regarding the lower mount nuts. Yes, can be a pain. Next time, i would work the holes on the underside to allow a socket to be placed squarely on the nut.
I ended up having to have the engine hanging, with the rubber mounts loose in hand, then reached into the crossmember from the top opening. Was able to hold washer and nut in place and then threaded the rubber mount into the nut.
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Re: Lada Crossmember
Yep, had the engine dangling for a couple of weeks. Currently working on wrapping up the front suspension and wondering if the fact that my new KYBs don't bolt to the new VAS Prima a-arms with the fancy-schmancy detachable mount is because no shocks are long enough to do so when the control arms are hanging free or the KYBs are shorter or VAS made the detachable mount too low. Good, good times.
My method was to install the mounts on the block first with the vain hope of easy access to the nuts from underneath. Funny thing happened when trying to install: I could get one side in or the other and I was growing frustrated as I knew it was a slotted opening but the mount bolt would not go in. While I was actually trying to push the mount bolt over, by hand, I remember: my engine is hanging free. Yeah, a gentle push and the mount bolt went right in. For once I made my own double work on the car.
My method was to install the mounts on the block first with the vain hope of easy access to the nuts from underneath. Funny thing happened when trying to install: I could get one side in or the other and I was growing frustrated as I knew it was a slotted opening but the mount bolt would not go in. While I was actually trying to push the mount bolt over, by hand, I remember: my engine is hanging free. Yeah, a gentle push and the mount bolt went right in. For once I made my own double work on the car.