Engine Saga

Hjulen · Post by **Hjulen** » Wed May 31, 2006 6:49 pm

Well, Part 1 of the engine transplant is done, we got the old motor out. The top tranny bolts that everyone says is a pain in the butt really werent the hard. The big sticking points during the removal were taking off frozen exhaust manifold studs and finding that third starter bolt that the manual I have conviently forgot to mention.

We just took the engine out without the tranny. This was a first time engine removal for me and the first time RWD engine removal for my best friend Andrew who helped me out. I think it took us about six hours to do. Now just have to get the damn flywheel off.

I got ten days to get the new motor in for the Club meeting in Saint Augustine, otherwise I am going to have to take the Alfa!

Once I figure out how to post pictures I will...

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Wed May 31, 2006 7:37 pm

Good luck with it James. Just curious but is there a reason why you removed the engine by itself? Ron and I have pulled the engine/tranny out of mine so many times, we can do it in 45 minutes. Heck, I think I could do it in my sleep! This is not something a girl should dream about.

Hjulen · Post by **Hjulen** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 12:45 am

Trying to say I got beat by a girl?

We just pulled the engine because we figured it would be the easier of the two procedures. Since I havent done it with ANY method I really have no idea what is easier. As soon as everything was disconnected though it came right out with no problems. I read a lot of debates in Mira about which procedures is best bleh bleh and am happy with what we did.

Has anyone ever used "wrinkle" style or similiar engine paint on valve covers and the like? I want to make some on the parts on the new engine look good with the hassle and cost of powdercoating.

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 6:19 am

LOL, I guess that's what I'm saying!
I've seen several painted covers. I tried it once and the paint wrinkled up real well when I didn't clean the covers good enough. Can you buy wrinkled paint in a can?

Mad-Machine · Post by **Mad-Machine** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 8:32 am

depends on the car. My first spider, a 76, was a serious PITA to get to the top transmission bolts. The trans was not even an inch from the top of the trans tunnel. I remember something about three swivels and about three feet of extensions to bring the rachet down to the shift opening in the tunnel.

My 75 had a ton of room between the trans and the tunnel. Never did figure out what was different between the two cars.

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 9:52 am

why remove the trans if you don't need to? It's just extra work IMHO

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 12:07 pm

I guess to each his/her own. We found it easier to remove and reinstall the whole thing.

Mad-Machine · Post by **Mad-Machine** » Thu Jun 01, 2006 10:17 pm

well, I pulled the trans on my 76 to rebuild it and install a new clutch. The engine stayed in the car... when my father and I rebuilt my 75.. we dropped the trans and engine in as one piece

Hjulen · Post by **Hjulen** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 9:38 pm

Well we got the engine in. It took a VERY LONG TIME to get the input shaft of the tranny into the pilot bearing and get the engine into position. I think if I ever pull the engine again i will do it with the tranny attached...

I hooked up the megasquirt and EDIS ignition and after a little tweeking I got the motor fired up. Problem is nowit have oil leaking from the intake side cambox and I am afraid the gasket is damaged. So we ran the engine for a grand total of 2 minutes. 'Suppose it time to take the timing belt off and replace that gasket.

I had the timing set at 10 degrees and the air fuel ratio at a nice safe 12.5:1 which of course is ridiculously rich but I didnt have a chance to change it out of fear of warming the engine up before we had the chance to break it in. I couldnt remember if I remember to fill up the tank with higher octane gas in anticipation for the HC pistons so I filled about 3/4 of the tank with 92 octane I picked up from the gas station today.

mdrburchette · Post by **mdrburchette** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 9:50 pm

It's a shame about that gasket but you're making progress! Is this the first time with the megasquirt?

So Cal Mark · Post by **So Cal Mark** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:52 pm

you must not have had the clutch aligned properly if they didn't mate up easily. Odd to have a leak on the intake cam, could it be from the two studs that hold the manifold on? They go into the oil galley.

Hjulen · Post by **Hjulen** » Thu Jun 08, 2006 12:32 am

Ya I thought the leak was odd too. I took apart the cam box and put on a new gasket today and reinforced it with gasket sealant. The motor started the up and no more leak. I think the old gasket was damaged before it was put on. Dunno for sure.

I found a few water leaks from the hoses that lead from the block to the heater. I tried to reuse the old hose but it is a little stiff and didnt fit back on very well. Anyone know a good replacement or fix that can be had locally?

I also must have a big vacuum leak somewhere because the engine wants to idle at 1800 rpm. It could be that the throttle stop screw isnt properly adjusted I will check that tomorrow after I chase down the leaks. I also disconnected the Fast idle solenoid to see if that was the problem but no change.