this is not a spider but it is the same engine so forgive me for shoving a Coupe in here
Anyway, there was no compression in number 1 cylinder. According to the notes of the original owner he had lost power. He did a check and concluded the valves in the #1 had burned. I got the cylinder head off last night and sure enough the # 1 exhaust valve was broke!
I bought a used cylinder head from Mark with the valves. Any thoughts on getting the old timing gears off the old head and putting them on the new head. The bolts are on tight and I am not sure of the best way to hold the gears while I torque off the bolts.
cylinder head swap 1438 cc
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cylinder head swap 1438 cc
Last edited by WarbirdAL on Thu Dec 04, 2008 7:01 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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- Posts: 214
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- Your car is a: 2 1977 124 Spiders 1969 124 Coupe
- Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
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- Your car is a: 2 1977 124 Spiders 1969 124 Coupe
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- Tappy
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Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
i've used an impact wrench and wrapped a cotton cloth around the pullies twice to hold them
FineItalianAutomobile Technology
pls don't see what i write , read what i mean
pls don't see what i write , read what i mean
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Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
I like the way the other cars are out in the cold, while you fill your garage with Fiats, Al.
Ron
Ron
Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
I've used an old timing belt, and wrapped them around the pulleys to act as a 'strap wrench' to prevent rotation, with the 'loose' end wrapped tightly around the other pulley and then looped over a cam tower bolt. You're correct that the crank pulley bolt is on there tight!
Alvon
Alvon
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Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
Hi Ron, you gave me a good chuckle when I read your post. My wife just said yeah yeah and walked away.
Thanks Alvon, I'll give that a try. My neighbor said to use a pry bar but I am shy about putting anything hard and metal against those gears, last thing I need is a chipped or damaged gear.
Thanks Alvon, I'll give that a try. My neighbor said to use a pry bar but I am shy about putting anything hard and metal against those gears, last thing I need is a chipped or damaged gear.
Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
Alan,WarbirdAL wrote:Hi Ron, you gave me a good chuckle when I read your post. My wife just said yeah yeah and walked away.
Thanks Alvon, I'll give that a try. My neighbor said to use a pry bar but I am shy about putting anything hard and metal against those gears, last thing I need is a chipped or damaged gear.
I have a pulley puller set you are more than welcome to borrow. You know where I live so let me know if you want it.
I am off tomorrow and Sat.
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Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
Thanks Chris , I dont know if a pulley puller is what I need? I just need to undo the front bolt that holds the gears on. I will most likely just take it into a shop and have them use an impact wrench to loosen the bolt.
Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
those early heads used a locking washer under the bolt. A piece of the washer is folded over a flat of the bolt to keep it tight. Fold that flap down flat using a chisel and hammer, then the bolt will break loose
Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
Well let me know. I have the impact wrenches too.WarbirdAL wrote:Thanks Chris , I dont know if a pulley puller is what I need? I just need to undo the front bolt that holds the gears on. I will most likely just take it into a shop and have them use an impact wrench to loosen the bolt.
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Re: cylinder head swap 1438 cc
Hi Mark, yeah I folded the washer down but the bolts are good n tight. I was looking for a method to hold the gears still while I torque on the bolts.So Cal Mark wrote:those early heads used a locking washer under the bolt. A piece of the washer is folded over a flat of the bolt to keep it tight. Fold that flap down flat using a chisel and hammer, then the bolt will break loose
Tappy, sorry I just noticed your reply, it was only one line and I didnt even see it!