1608 timing issue

[pauljdav]

Hi,

I have had my car for one year now (Yeah!!) Anyhow I replaced the timing belt when I first got the car. I am uncertain however if I got the cam gears perfectly timed. The car seems to have decent power, but has a flutter at idle that is annoying.

I did not drive or start the car before replacing the belt so I do not have a baseline of performance.

The question I have on the cam timing is lining up the marks on the cam sprocket to the mark on the car. It seems that the intake side is perfect, but the exhaust side is not perfectly lined up at 0 degrees. It appears to be not quite lined up yet. It looks like if I moved the timing up one mark it would be too advanced.

I do not want to replace the timing belt again unless needed. If I move the sprocket up one mark does it move the mark very far?

Also on the 1608 sprockets, the intake side both holes line up with the mark on the engine. When the exhaust side bottom hole is lined up with the engine mark, the upper hole is too far advanced. What is the proper way to ensure they are "Perfect?"

Will the exhaust side being retarded by one mark cause an idle "flutter"?

Do I need a new timing belt or can I simply reuse the current one?

Please help me out with this.

Thanks,
Paul

[So Cal Mark]

the cams won't line up perfectly, but if they are a full tooth off then you need to reinstall the belt. Your idle problem doesn't sound like cam timing issues though

[manoa matt]

These should help with getting things lined up. The one picture is a special tool that I'm sure every spider owner wishes they had.

Like Mark said idle is something else, could be ignition or carb.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtimes_fiat/3258985438/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/bigtimes_fiat/3258984346/

[racydave]

Paul, it sounds as you are on top of it ! I would not worry about the belt either. Leave the cover off, and you can re-do it if needed. Do you have good fuel? Id also check for bad vac hoses, and vaccum leaks. A dwell meter would be helpfull to check points, and distributor dwell.

[pauljdav]

Well, there are a few things I have not done yet but I will list what I have done.

Replaced points with crane electronic.
Swapped Carb with another of the same type. ADF 32. (could carb be too big for the 1608?)
New plugs etc.

The car ran the same before and after each change.

I so far have not yet performed compression test. I also have not checked valve clearance.

I do not hear any valve noise, but I may find answers by checking anyhow.

Thanks,
Paul

[So Cal Mark]

the oem carb was a 34, so the 32 isn't too large. You should start with basics at this point, check compression and valve clearance

[mdrburchette]

Getting the cam timing right by aligning the marks can be disconcerting. When I picked up my 71 it was off a tooth and was very sluggish through the whole driving range.
Is it possible your idle jet in the carb is dirty causing this flutter?

[TulsaSpider]

Where is your ignition timing set?

[pauljdav]

I did thoroughly clean the carb and put new gaskets on it and I had a second carb. Both idled the same.

I had the timing at between 5-10. I adjusted it by ear the other day. I advanced it slightly and it did idle much faster but still with a flutter. I can now just barely get a slight knock in certain conditions so I do not want to advance it further.

Should I do the compression and valve checks on a hot or cold engine?

Thanks, Paul

[So Cal Mark]

by "flutter", do you mean misfire?

[pauljdav]

it is a bit rough, you can feel it is rough sitting at stoplights. You can hear it is at the exhaust.

It is so very much like a vacuum leak, but I have searched and replaced every gasket and checked all hoses.

It is noticeable until around 1300-1500 rpms then it is no longer noticeable.

Paul