tuning

[sam]

I have a 80 spider 2000 and I'm currently waiting for a set of ball joints so I was thinking in the mean time I would try and do some tuning since I don't feel comfortable driving it much till they are replaced, I just got the car and it is in pretty good shape for the most part for a non-restored car.

Things I have done so far are: new plugs. new brakes. checked wires and distributor and they look good and I will change the oil/filter and maybe the trans/rear oil... so my question is this.

1. Is there any little things specific to the car that I should check on?
2. I have a little miss goes like this ........put put.......put......put put..... it is only noticible at idle, my thought was timing but I cant seem to find a timing mark, another thing I am thinking is it might be a tad rich (smells a little rich) I see what looks like it should be the timing marker on the block but not on the pulley... any thoughts? how should I go about setting/checking the timing?
3. How about a 185 60 13 tire on stock rims? currently have 155 70 13s and don't like the look or feel too much.

Ok, so that is 3 questions but hey...

Btw, I love the car... it is a blast to drive other than it feels like it is trying to shake it's self apart (new tires/balljoints/alignment I'm thinking will clear all that up)

PS. This car is the most rev happy car I have ever driven, I try and keep it below 4500rpm shifting on regular driving but I hit that 5k mark a lot. It doesnt really feel like over reving and not in the red by anymeans but is this bad driving habit? or should that be ok on a healthy motor? the 3k to 3500 I usually shift a car at just doesnt cut it with this one, it really doesnt wake up till 2500+ and with the gears so short its just too hard to not be in the 4-5k range on shifts.

[mdrburchette]

Use non EP oil in the transmission.
Is you car a carbed version or fuel injected?
185/60s should be fine on a 5" tire. Where can you find that size?
It doesn't hurt to drive the car past 3500 rpm. They are quite happy in the higher rpm range. I drive mine at 5 or 6k all the time.

[rlux4]

When I first got my car it had a slight miss that was noticeable at idle. Ventura Ace helped me check the valve clearances and one valve was a few thousandths off. We reshimmed it and it cleared up great. The problem revealed itself with a compression test; that cylinder was about 20 lbs. less than the others.
Ron

[TulsaSpider]

Sam,
Is it a points car or a electronic ignition? If it's points of course get a new set of points and condenser, rotor and cap. Mine looked fine too but when I changed them it made a big difference. It's recommended to change over the dual point setup to a single point setup. Also change the wires out that supply the power as they tend to break internally, this is true apparently of the electronic ones as well I hear.
The timing marks are on the timing cover, (hope yours still has one) not the block. Look on the right side down way low and you will find 3 lines the long one is 0 and the top line is 10 degrees before top dead center. That is where you want to set the timing.
Check for vacuum leaks there always some it seems!
Another thing to check is the guibo, or rubber donut just behind the tranny. Check for pieces missing or just general condition of it. If it fails it can destroy your floorpan.
Sounds like you may have a valve adjustment issue to me too. You said you checked the plug wires? With an meter?
Good luck
PS I am not sure on this one but I don't think the RPM gauge is very accurate on these, just like all the other guages! I think mine reads low.

[sam]

Use non EP oil in the transmission.
Is you car a carbed version or fuel injected?
185/60s should be fine on a 5" tire. Where can you find that size?
It doesn't hurt to drive the car past 3500 rpm. They are quite happy in the higher rpm range. I drive mine at 5 or 6k all the time.

The car is carbed and the tires I am concidering are http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... es&place=0

When I first got my car it had a slight miss that was noticeable at idle. Ventura Ace helped me check the valve clearances and one valve was a few thousandths off. We reshimmed it and it cleared up great. The problem revealed itself with a compression test; that cylinder was about 20 lbs. less than the others.
Ron

So I guess a compression test is on the menu, I lost my guage so that was an out of sight out of mind thing I guess

Sam,
Is it a points car or a electronic ignition?

I really dont know the answer. I was guessing electronic but I am gonna have to double check. As far as checking the wires etc I just pulled a wire while running and watched it jump a spark, and it seemed very healthy however the coil pack looks a little rusty and I might go on and change it.

I will have to take some engine cleaner I guess and start investigating to find those marks, knowing where to look will help, by right you mean drivers side im guessing? this is a US car. I will check the guibo, I didnt think of that at all but my bro had one go out on a 70s bmw and it was pretty nasty.

Thanks for all the help, that should keep me busy for a few hours

[sam]

ok, checked the compression and all but one is reading 100psi with the last reading about 85. As for reshiming a valve, what exactly is that? I have adjusted them but that was just using a set of locking bolts to adjust clearance (not on a fiat).

[ga.spyder]

Sam,
Here is a good tutorial for the valve adjustments
http://www.international-auto.com/fiat- ... rances.cfm
I have not done mine,although it is something I will have to get to eventually.The Fiat uses different sized shims to get proper clearance on the valves.It's an Italian thing!!

[sam]

think I will have to source a shop book before I take on the valve task, as for the timing I see the timing guage thing just no mark on the pulley, guess I can stick it at tdc and put a mark on the pulley at 0 degree.

How bad is the valve shiming? the fact that the cam is swimming in oil seems like it will make the task a bit more troublesome.

[narfire]

Hey sam,adjusting the valve clearance is not really a big issue. Perhaps a bit time consuming, I had never done it myself but with a couple of tools I was done in about 2-3 hours. I ordered the shim adjustment tool from IAP that made the job go easy and a micrometer as sometimes the shim size is/has been rubbed off. The IAP catalogue had a chart that helps when determining the new sizes if needed.My neibour was a volvo guy and their shims are the same diameter as the fiats.
My comperssion was even at 130 when I was done.
As for the put...put...put I did'nt realize the Italians played much golf.

[So Cal Mark]

those compression readings are low, and don't expect a smooth idle with one cylinder less than 100psi

[Europa]

Sam, I agree with narfire on the valve adjustment. I have never done this myself until recently. To be failsafe, i solicited the help of my in-laws, who have worked on Jaguar, Lotus and Toyota Supra Turbo (didn't know Supra's used shims) heads. You do need a micrometer, the twin cam valve adjustment tool (or similar - read posts on this site), and a magnetic pickup tool (I can't imagine removing shims easily without the magnetic pickup). Once I went through the process, it became easier. Mind you, my cylinder head is sitting on a work bench, so it was relatively easy to turn the cams.

I downloaded an Excel spreadsheet from a FIAT site that can potentially help you figure out the correct size shims you need. Don't recall where I got it, but if you need it, PM me and I'll email it to you.

[launieg]

Are volvo shims a genuine match? Just curious - first time I've hear of this.

[htchevyii]

Are volvo shims a genuine match? Just curious - first time I've hear of this.

I think so, Guy Croft says you can get Volvo shims in thicker sizes if needed, although he didn't recommend it because of weight.

[sam]

Aparently they play golf when they need some head work

As for the tool, I can't find it on IAP. I found a dead link somewhere so maybe they are out. I havent checked local parts stores but since they cant even seem to get a shop manual I am not too hopeful in their ability to get a specialty tool. I guess I will have to grab the manual from IAP but as for the tool I am at a loss.

Would something like this work? http://www.fastcycleparts.com/showprodu ... &aid=10050 it is for a motorcycle so I am thinking it might not be up for the task. If it requires one for a fiat specificly the only one I saw was on http://www.fiatparts.com/tools.htm and it says inquire so I guess I will be inquiring tomorrow :p

If I can't source a tool can I just pull the cams off without pulling the whole head? If so I would guess that wouldn't be too horrible just get my measurements remove the cam then calculate the needed shims and order the book and shims at one time to save some shipping, of course I would need the valve clearance specs. Then drop in new shims and replace the cams, I would have the book at that point to aid in the proper installation of the cams (even though they should just go back the way they came off )

[ventura ace]

Sam,
Where are you located? Maybe there is someone on this Forum nearby that can assist you. There are several Fiat Vendors that can help you with shims and tools and other parts.

Vicks Autosport, Texas
International Auto Parts, Virginia (I think)
Bruce's Parts Bin (NJ, I think)
Chris Obert in Califonia
Midwest 124 in Ohio

Your best investment for now is to get a good shop manual (ebay, or some of the vendors listed above).

Alvon