cooling probs

[Tappy]

ok so got some contradictions in the answers there , so i took laury's advice and pulled it of to make sure
I reset the numbers so DONT look @ the pictures in the other posts , just this one

port 3 blocked of all the cold water , port 2 and 1 let the cold water run trough

so
-1 goes up the T-piece
-2 to the pump
-3 to lower radiator hose

So it seems like Mark has got it right , like me, it was installed correctly


makes me wonder if tulsa spider has his one right then ? aldo the outer casing mag differ i bet the spring(valve) inside is located the same ,so the "skirt " like he cals it has to go to the waterpump ?

[mdrburchette]

This has been an interesting thread. I know I'm not a technical person, but my method works every time. Just blow through the ports and the one that is blocked goes to the lower radiator hose.
Tappy, you said you didn't know if your heater valve was open or not. Can you move the levers half way so the heater valve will at least be open a little?

[Tappy]

Hi Denise , yes i can and wil do so , while disconnecting the thermostat there was no coolant whatsoever coming out of the t-piece hose , so there was a gigantic air bubble , probably caused by the closed valve on the heating system , playing with that (read opening) it released probably the air that is now in the system

ah wel need to solve the bucle in the heater hoses , find a flushing t-piece , and some 5l of coolant and hopefully the problem is solved then

keep you updated

[TulsaSpider]

OK this HAS been interesting! Perhaps Mike and I both have it on wrong??? It appears so? Mine came from Bayless, there was a "W" marked in sharpie on one of the open ends I took this to mean "waterpump" perhaps not! perhaps this is why mine takes forever to warm up! I thought I had gotten a faulty one. Well it's too cold for R&R of my ball joints this weekend. I think I'll correct this though! now that winter is almost over LOL!! Oh the humanity! Thanks Tappy Wappy! I hope you get all the air burped out of your system this time!

[mbouse]

well, i do not overheat, and i can attest that the heater works just fine, thankyou, just fine.

so, aftermarket exterior appearance may be different from OEM appearance? anyway you slice it, i am having no troubles with the orientation i previously posted...

and of course, any air pockets in the system will lead to overheating, and poor (if any) circulation. one of the steps to a proper cooling system fill is to have the heater core valve wide open.

[TulsaSpider]

I took my thermostat off and indeed it was installed correctly so I can verify that different thermostats have different appearances or housings however you want to say it. Mine is labeled Behr made in Italy. Perhaps next fall I will try another brand as mine has problems getting warm enough.

[Tappy]

ok we 're one step closer , everybody has his thermostat on the right way

anyway thanks for trying this on your thermostat , as Mike said , you cant see it on the outside so if anyone has problems wit this in the future , we can give them Desnises advice to just blow through the ports and the one that is blocked goes to the lower radiator hose.

little detail , you says yours have a "W" casted in , on the waterpump outlet , mine has a marker there also ...

[TulsaSpider]

Just to be clear the thermostat isn't stamped, it had "WP" written in sharpie on the correct outlet. And yes we do know for certain how to tell very easily now!

[Tappy]

I've took her out today for a spin , seems like i still have an overheating problem i just spend hours filling up the cooling system to make sure it doesn't have an air bubble in it. The meter beeing far past 190° the thermostat housing is hot as hell but the lower radiator hose is still cold

i think its safe to assume the thermostat has died after 30 years of service

any comments or remarks ? car needs to be fully operational next week for the classic tour , new thermostat is already ordered

[So Cal Mark]

if the lower hose is cold, the stat is not opening

[rlux4]

Tappy, I had the same problem last year when I put on a new thermostat. I followed the standard instructions for bleeding the coolant system exactly, and never could get coolant up to the thermostat from the bottom of the radiator. What was happening is the coolant has no way to displace the air that is in the bottom hose. The stat has to be covered with water, they won't open with hot air. I solved the problem by drilling a small (1/8") hole in the stat valve disc, shown here:



This allows the air to be pushed past the closed stat so that it can rise to the top of the system and be dispelled.
Some of the new stats are coming already pre-drilled, which I didn't know at the time. I stole the idea from my wife's Dodge Caravan thermostat.
Ron

[So Cal Mark]

so you spearheaded the Fiat/Chrysler alliance? Be careful and don't drill a hole any larger than 1/8" or the heater may not get very hot. The other important aspect is that the small hole will help prevent a complete meltdown if the stat sticks closed

[rlux4]

Good point about the hole size Mark. When I took the old stat out, I found it had three 1/4" holes in it, and it was worthless for temperature control. With the 1/8" hole in mine it functions perfectly, and probably a smaller hole would work as well.
Ron

[Tappy]

i like this ,the tips and tricks of the spidermen themselves