online timing belt replacement guide?

[wengr]

hello, my new belt and tensioner bearing arrives today, but I have no manual yet. as it's a nice warm day here I'd like to put the parts in. is there an online guide that would cover the main point of belt and tensioner bearing installation? google is no help. I have never done a TC, but many years ago I did belts on various 1300 and 1500 sohc fiats, so I'm not totally new to it. thanks in advance, greg

[Europa]

http://www.fiatplus.com/members/tech0402.htm

There is a quick guide diagram somewhere on the internet. I'll see if I can find it.

[Europa]

Ok, one more link... Timing Belt Info
http://www.mirafiori.com/model/tbelt/

I also have a PDF document that Craig (ga.spider) provided. I have no way of posting that to a site as most photo sites are blocked at work. PM me with your email address and I'll email it to ya.

[Tappy]

r u looking for this ?

[wengr]

Thanks Europa and Tappy, very helpful. I've been reviewing the materials and it's generated a few questions.
1 i've only done tranverse engines - is it really necessary to remove the radiator?
2 necessary to remove the starter? workarounds for this?
3 which cyl is #4? nearest the windshield?
4 with the belt off, will the valve spring tension make the cams want to spinoff their marks?
car is a 1983. thanks greg

[Europa]

1. Not necessary to remove the radiator, unless you need more room.
2. Don't think the starter will get in the way, as it is by the bell housing.
3. #4 is all the way back, by the windshield; and of course, #1 is up front by the water pump.
4. Not sure about this. Either way you can use Tappy's diagram to align everything back.

I send you an email with the "Timing Belt Replacement Helper" attached.

[rlux4]

#1: No. (The only purpose to do it would be to protect it during the job.)
#2: No.
#3: Yes.
#4 No.
You can also do it without removing the crankshaft pulley as most instructions will tell you to do. The old belt will come off, and the new belt will go on with only a little trouble by twisting and threading them past the narrow areas between the V-belt pulleys and the block. I found it much easier to get it done by removing the timing mark indicator during the process.
Ron

[Tappy]

Thanks Europa and Tappy, very helpful. I've been reviewing the materials and it's generated a few questions.
1 i've only done tranverse engines - is it really necessary to remove the radiator?
nope but it sure works alot easier , only nee disconnect 2 hoses (overflow and engine heater hose) and 2 bolds
2 necessary to remove the starter? workarounds for this?
dont need to remove @ all
3 which cyl is #4? nearest the windshield?
yes there numbered also, castings are in the head
4 with the belt off, will the valve spring tension make the cams want to spinoff their marks?
car is a 1983. thanks greg
no they wont , to make sure control marking like in the picture
if you remove the waterpump pully from the cranckas also theres a mark there underneath

while your @ it can you check alignment of the aux gear to the inlet cam gear for me pls ? i got some unsolvable problems

[wengr]

thanks guys, that seems more reasonable, Tappy I'll pay attention to the aux marks and report back - just waiting on UPS here. greg

[launieg]

For the fifteen minutes it took to get my radiator out of the way, I recommend removing it. And then you can spend another fifteen minutes flushing it out and spraying a coat of paint on it).

And although I know that many on the forum do not have to remove the crankshaft pulley, if you still have all the original covers (like I did) intact, then you will find it necessary to remove it (like I did). I followed Mark's advice and used a flexshaft extension through the grill (another reason to remove the rad) with an impact wrench. The pulley came off easy that way. Then I left off that nasty inner cover (the small one that is over the crankshaft pulley) forever

Finally, I puzzled over the tensioner quite a bit (I have an '81, and assume it is similar to the '83) because I did not quite understand how it worked, despite the good written procedures available to help. You must release the tension to get the belt off and on, and it was not particularly clear (to me ) how that works. Then you must tension it properly and "lock the tension into place" by tightening the bolts. So that is why the tensioner (once released) will not affect the pulleys. So make sure the tension is fully "off" before removing the old belt. Finally, make sure you have that tension off as much as possible (I had it not quite fully back) to get the belt on without trouble.

Sorry about the crude explanation.

[wengr]

Hello Launie and thanks for the info. I have an AC car so I probably would have to move more than just the radiator in order to approach the crank pulley bolt thru the grill. but it seems a good idea, and I do have impact here. the tensioner info is helpful. but - UPS brought my parts order which is incomplete, so no timing belt job today . I bought this car 10 days ago. asked the PO about the belt. he said it was not changed in his 8 year ownership, but his mother owned it before him going back to 87, and she never had it replaced either. He was a good record keeper so I tend to believe it. if true I'm on a 22+ year old belt. that's gotta be a record.

[adrians]

In case anyone wanted a copy of the CAM BELT HELPER Guide.

http://home.people.net.au/~sandrin/CAM_BELT_HELPER.JPG

[ga.spyder]

Hey Greg,
I have some copies of the cd/rom that Europa was speaking of.If you are in need,send me your home address and I would be glad to send you one.It is the factory manual in pdf form. Someone more computer savvy may be able to email it.I have tried with no luck.
Craig